When buying an MR2....

[Trixstar]

Hi there,

I'm new to the forums but have been an masive fan of MR2 for as long as i can remember, Finally the time has come and I would like to purchase my First MR2.

I have a good understanding of cars (my background is mechanical engineering and fabrication, but im still young and learning....) and have bought a few over the years but I'm not 100% sure what specifics i need to watch out for when buying an MR2 (Specifically im after a rev3 turbo).

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with some great advice.

[cosmos]

Ideally look out for your favourite colour with good staggered wheels and check out the rear of the sills for rust for starters.
Bonuses can be history, extra's, mods, welcome aboard and good hunting.

[cosmos]

Ideally look out for your favourite colour with good staggered wheels and check out the rear of the sills for rust for starters.
Bonuses can be history, extra's, mods, welcome aboard and good hunting.

[adaz]

I can't post links yet but there's a good guide under "MR2s for Sale" (first post on the top):

Forum Index -> MR2s for Sale ->What to Look for When Buying an SW20

[psummers]

I can't post links yet but there's a good guide under "MR2s for Sale" (first post on the top):

Forum Index -> MR2s for Sale ->What to Look for When Buying an SW20

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=116785

This checklist from mr2oc is a good guide:

Info:- Buyers Check List

Bodywork:
• Check all panel gaps.
• Stand at front and back corners and scan down each side of the car – especially ¼ panels.
• Check panels for evidence of respray and different colours underneath.
• Check under car for signs of crash damage.
• Check radiator at front for signs of leakage and damage.
• Check wheel arch lining is present and secure.
• Check lining under car is present and secure.
• Check condition of discs.
• Check frunk for lining, tool kit, spare wheel.
• Check rust on underside of the doors and wheel arch lips.
• Check for rust/bubbling around t-bar area when panels are off (look under the rubber seals).
• Check t-bar roof – condition of rubber seals. Tight fitting windows and t-bars?
• Check tyres for even wear on each tyre and across all four tyres.
• Check VIN plate in frunk. Should start with SW20 for a turbo and JT163SW20 for an n/a.

Interior:
• Check every switch (does ariel work?)
• Air con engages and is cold?
• Heaters hot?
• Relevant warning lights all light up with ingition on?
• Fog lights work (and steer)?
• Fog lights on dash come on?
• Folding mirrors both fold and adjust?
• All dash illuminating lights work?
• Hand brake holds?
• Check seats adjust including all lumbar levers.
• Check cable releases for frunk, bonnet, boot and fuel cap.
• Check date label is on seatbelts and also check the date.
• Any evidence of damp carpets in cabin and in boot.

Engine bay:
• Check radiator cap. Should be able to see coolant. Any oil visible?
• Check for ECU error codes.
• Start engine – do all dash lights go out except handbrake?
• Temp should reach ½ way.
• Fans should come on. When they do, check radiator for leaks.
• Check halfway underneath the car for any leaks when engine is on.
• Smooth idle below 1000rpm when warm?
• Signs of leaks around engine bay or underneath?
• Check oil level and condition.
• Check under oil cap for mayo.
• Is downpipe cracked or blowing?
• Condition of air filter.

When driving:
• Any rattles or knocking at idle?
• Clonks over bumps from suspension or other source?
• Bearings grind while turning?
• LSD grinding while turning?
• Brake hard – check ABS works.
• Brakes squeal?
• Check brakes don’t vibrate when applied lightly.
• Full boost to the redline?
• Check boost in all gears including 4th from 20-70mph+.
• Temp stays at ½ way even after full accleration?
• Steering wheel wobble?
• After driving, check discs. Is one hotter than the rest?

Other areas:
• Check service history.
• Does the history relate to the current engine?
• Any written proof of mileage to the car i.e. certificate / check MOTs?
• Proof of clutch change.
• Proof of cambelt change.
• Proof of when brakes were changed.
• If a turbo, what boost is the car running at. If over 1.0bar (15psi), do the mods support it?
• Evidence of regular servicing – check dates.
• Any names or addresses so you can phone previous owners?

http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-know ... kbartid=87

[Trixstar]

Wow thats quite a comprehensive guide there, i should of had a butchers at the for sale section first .....

Thanks for you help guys much appriciated, may seem a silly question but what differences should i be looking out for to determine whether I'm actually looking at a Rev 3 and not a Rev 2 with a few Rev 3 parts?

[adaz]

I found this site when I was buying mine: http://mr2turbo.info/diff.html
(yay I can post links now!)

If you're not sure you can check the year of manufacture on the V5c - if it's November '93 or newer then it's probably a rev3 ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_MR2 ... ar_changes ). Correct me if I'm wrong!

[psummers]

Differences between revisions:

Revision 1 (12/1989 to 11/1991)

The original MK2. Loved by those who demanded a challenging, yet rewarding ride at the edge. The handling was developed with support from an ex Formula 1 racing driver. Earned a reputation as 'dangerous' in the motoring press because of it's ability to bite hard those who lack experience in mid engined handling characteristics. Most noticeable if it still has its original 14" alloy wheels.

Chassis numbers 0000001-0059265


Revision 2 (12/1991 to 11/1993)

Revision 2 saw a large number of changes. To make the handling more manageable, the suspension was heavily revised. Different geometry tamed the handling as well as thicker anti-roll bars and trailing arms. Tyre size was increased in width (195 front / 225 rear) and the wheel diameter increased to 15" to accommodate the larger front and rear brake discs, to reduce brake fade under heavy usage. A deeper front skirt was fitted to the nose cone and the gear change lever was shortened in length and throw.

Chassis numbers 0059266-0087385


Revision 3 (11/1993 to 06/1996)

Revision 3 saw many cosmetic changes. Although additional braces were placed on the rear suspension towers to reduce the risk of stress induced damage, the most notable mechanical changes were a range of updated engines with higher power outputs, that are also better suited to tuning. The revision 3 gained a substantial change on the outside. New rounded style rear lamps, with relocated reverse lamps and the departure of the 'honeycombe' rear panel. The rear spoiler changed to a 1 piece design that stands higher on the bootlid and the front skirt, side sills and rear bumper extensions all became colour coded.

Chassis numbers 0087386-0106662


Revision 4 (06/1996 to 12/1997)

Revision 4 introduced minor changes. New 'diamond cut' alloys gave a more prestige appearance to the car. And modern clear front indicator/sidelight units were fitted. Japanese models finally lost the odd side markers in the front bumper in favour of European wing mounted side repeaters.

Chassis numbers 0106663-0110900 (est)


Revision 5 (12/1997 to 08/1999

Revision 5 saw the last updates before the end of SW20 (MK2) production in Japan. New, thin spoke alloys wheels and a large 'combat' style rear spoiler with adjustable wing make the revision 5 very distinctive. Speed flaps were added to the front bumper to help reduce wheel vibration at high speed. On the inside Red detailing was added to the instrument cluster as well a red stitching on the gear knob.

From http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-know ... bartid=102

Your best bet is to check the chassis number to be totally sure.