Got Spark, got fuel, but it wont start!

[dantheman]

In April i was 100 miles into a 105 mile journey and the engine unexpectedly stalled. Called AA, he checked the spark, put a voltmeter on the EFI fuse i think, and said fuel pump was working correctly. It wouldnt start up so it got towed home.

Everytime i went to start it up after that it worked fine and I was unable to find the problem so assumed it went away. Its been off the road since then.

Now i want to get it on the road the problem is back with avengance. From cold it started up fine and ran smoothly and reved smoothly for about 5 minutes, then it just died. No splutter, no drama, just died, as if i'd keyed off. When it did so i could hear clicking for a few seconds from the engine bay fuse box area, like a relay kept switching. It started up again immediately and died again after 5 mins. Now it wont start up at all.

Ive:
-bridged FP and B+ in diagnosis port and could hear fuel return, return line hadfuel pressure.
-pulled all HT leads, put an old spark plug in and seen a spark
-changed igniter, coil, all HT leads, fuel pump relay, EFI relay, Circuit open relay, ign relay. None made it kick into life.
-checked fuses are intact

However i cant seem to get a flashing engine management light up when i bridge TE1 and E1.

I am ruling out ignition timing because when it works it works beautifully.

My cold start injector timer switch is broken but has never caused me an issue in over 2 years. Shouldnt do now in the middle of summer anyway.

I just dont understand how there can be fuel delivery and spark and yet it wont run. Any ideas?

[Peter Gidden]

Do you get CEL when you switch on igntion?

[dantheman]

CEL as in Check engine light?

No ive not seen it, guessing i should check the bulb. Urgh i hate stipping the dash.

[Loque]

Might be easier to try to read the fault codes and see if anything flashes...

[Peter Gidden]

CEL as in Check engine light?

No ive not seen it, guessing i should check the bulb. Urgh i hate stipping the dash.

No need to strip the dash. Pin 5 on the 22 pin ECU plug should be Green/White. If it is, earth it with ignition on. If it lights, bulb and wiring OK.

[Steve-O 2007]

Check all your Earth connects.

Especially the Earths under the Inlet manifold!!! These can cause real problems. Make sure they are clean and tight and no corrosion behind them.

I was about to strip my car years ago as it stopped starting or would start and then cut out and it was the earth under the inlet manifold had came loose!!

[dantheman]

Ok so im trying this morning and when i key on the CEL is on, starts up. Engine dies and i can see the CEL flickering then it lights strongly. starts up again. then it dies and the CEL goes off, i hear clicking and the CEL is flashing along with the clicking. Then it disappeared completely and wont come back on.

So whatever is causing this has influence on whether the CEL shows or not.

I didnt have time to pinpoint the clicking location but it sounded like it was coming from the inlet manifold area, or perhaps fuse box area. Is it a relay? Ive changed all the ones in the fuse box.

[RyanRs]

Check all your Earth connects.

Especially the Earths under the Inlet manifold!!! These can cause real problems. Make sure they are clean and tight and no corrosion behind them.

I was about to strip my car years ago as it stopped starting or would start and then cut out and it was the earth under the inlet manifold had came loose!!

+1 That master earth (spider earth or whatever you call it) is a bu88er! make sure its got perfect contact with the inlet manifold and make sure the inlet is earthed well to the engine and the engine is earthed well to the chassis!! The clicking i believe could be the fuel pump relay.

[dantheman]

my inlet manifold is earthed by the boost pressure take off on the right hand side and is well grounded. where is the one underneath the manifold? Ive changed the fuel pump relay and it didnt make a difference.

starter relay doesnt have continuity like inspection manual says but still seems to work. could that be affecting the ecu circuit enough to be doing this?

And grounding pin 5 does bring on the CEL

[RyanRs]

Noo, you dont need to change the relay, its clicking likely because the master earth is disconnected ! all sort of strange things happen when that thing comes off. Iirc it attaches under one of the two middle runners, should have 4 brown wires coming out of it. if you cant see it after a good look, then its likely not there and thats your problem

[dantheman]

Ive checked the spider earth, it wasnt loose, but i removed it and cleaned it up anyway. made no difference. So i did the checks on the ECU:



Results which were not as specified:

IDL-E2 = 14V. Could get it within range but it was extremely sensitive
VTA-E2 = 0 Always
VC-E2 = 0
PIM-E2 = 0
TVIS-E1 = 0 Always
T-E1 no check connector = 4.69V

So looking at that the throttle position sensor seems a problem. But i did the checks on that but the resistances seem ok. The car certainly revs ok when it does run so i dont think thats a problem?

Then i checked the resistance on the ECU




VTA-E2 = 1300
VC-E2 = 98
G1/G2-G- = 13 Mil
NE-G- = 100 Mil

Again more out readings on throttle but also the Distributor this time.

Ive had the car running a couple of times now, and if i key off it wont restart.

So is it likely my throttle and distributer (which has only done 3000 miles, its about 3 years old) are both incorrect or is the ECU the main problem?

[asdrewq]

Try taking the ecu apart and inspect the electrolytic capacitors for leakage onto the PCB below - They are prone to failure at this age.

[dantheman]

Try taking the ecu apart and inspect the electrolytic capacitors for leakage onto the PCB below - They are prone to failure at this age.

Spot on, one of the resistors has leaked and corroded through the contact. New ECU required then.

Cheers.

[asdrewq]

It is a single layer PCB - if you are handy with a soldering iron i'd give a DIY repair a go

[vtecpower]

Try taking the ecu apart and inspect the electrolytic capacitors for leakage onto the PCB below - They are prone to failure at this age.

Spot on, one of the resistors has leaked and corroded through the contact. New ECU required then.

Cheers.

seems like this is a common fault when they hit this sort of age, had a ecu pack up on me and loads others here on the imoc

[dantheman]

It is a single layer PCB - if you are handy with a soldering iron i'd give a DIY repair a go

I was considering it. Not only has the resistor leaked and potentially changed resistance but theres nothing left of one of its legs. The only way to repair it would be to source another resistor, and i wouldnt know where to begin with that.

But i need the ECU now, should i want to make myself 50 quid i can do that another time.

[Steve-O 2007]

take the old resistor etc to your local maplins. You could get the needed parts for like 30p and have it sorted easy if you can solder. (as long as it hasnt shorted anything else out)

[dantheman]

i will try that, cheers