[Mk2] [Turbo] boot mount

[jamesmr21987]

hi what does everyone think about boot mounts looking to get one but not sure if its any good

[Tsia]

I'm actually thinking about one of these for myself at the moment. It looks like a fun little project to embark on, even if it's little to no gain on a CT turbo from what I hear


Although it has to be better than the toaster I'm currently using...


Edit : You can get a half decent IC (Toyosports, decent, anybody?) and seperate piping for ~£80 on eBay. It looks bit of a bu88er to get fitting correctly, but if you're happy to cut and weld a bit, it should all be good!

[jamesmr21987]

its just exhaust I will need to think about I have a nurse spec and u know what a snake that is just wondering about what is best would love ro do it

[Tsia]

I don't think that you HAVE to take the 'scoop from beneath' method. From what I've read, you can actually take air from the side vents and have it exit via the panel where your reverse lights sit, if you so desire.

I'll be trying to get hold of a single exit myself for this, though. The less soak the better!

[Turbonoz]

Fitting a boot mount whilst running a CT26 was one of the worst modifications I have done to a car as far as driveability goes. Before that I was running a modified Pulsar top mount intercooler above the air filter, and with the minimal pipework length, response was fantastic and the car was a joy to drive. I only fitted the boot mount in preparation for the massive turbo I'm running now.

[Marf]

hi what does everyone think about boot mounts looking to get one but not sure if its any good

What is your ultimate power target?

[jamesmr21987]

looking to get 300ish maybe a bit more until I can get a stroker kit

[Marf]

Bootmount would be MASSIVE overkill then.

If you're not going for more than say 400hp then look at an ST205 chargecooler.

[jamesmr21987]

what would I need and would it be engine out for it

[Marf]

No, not engine out

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... argecooler

[Steve Horrocks]

Bootmount would be MASSIVE overkill then.

If you're not going for more than say 400hp then look at an ST205 chargecooler.

This!

[Tsia]

I'm looking at changing turbos in the future, so this leaves me with the question, what is it like, driving a BMIC with a CT26? Late spool and early tail-off?

[Turbonoz]

I'm looking at changing turbos in the future, so this leaves me with the question, what is it like, driving a BMIC with a CT26? Late spool and early tail-off?

I found it very poor with the stock injectors, rail & ECU, rich when off boost and lean at anything over 1.2 bar. Once I fitted the Link G3, it was obviously much better, and with the Wolfkatz & 900cc injectors, I could hapily run 1.4 bar on the poor little CT26, which it held to the limit. Didn't get the chance to run it on the dyno as the Hose From Hell let go so on went the T78.

I loved the top mount set-up, response was brilliant but I knew I'd be going for a massive turbo, so the BMIC was the only option.

IMO, only fit the BMIC when you know you're fitting a worthwhile turbo ASAP, it really did destroy the driving experience until I fitted the Link ECU. Boot mount sure looks good though

[Tsia]

Roughly speaking, how much was the Link G3 setup?


Cheers for the info by the way, really useful.

[Turbonoz]

Roughly speaking, how much was the Link G3 setup?


Cheers for the info by the way, really useful.

No worries

Bought the G3 second hand, they vary in price between £350 and £500. I've been mapping cars for years, so no tuner costs.

I didn't want to butcher the stock loom, but Link no longer offer the patch cable for the G3 & 3SGTE, and Thor couldn't source one for me either. A place in Ireland could build me one for £200, so I built my own using the connectors & case from a cheap N/A ECU with the circuitry gutted.

[A.BLAKE]

Gota have this on mine.. Yes you lose all rear visibility but so what... thinking you would need a fan under the IC for when in traffic though..

[Tsia]

Roughly speaking, how much was the Link G3 setup?


Cheers for the info by the way, really useful.

No worries

Bought the G3 second hand, they vary in price between £350 and £500. I've been mapping cars for years, so no tuner costs.

I didn't want to butcher the stock loom, but Link no longer offer the patch cable for the G3 & 3SGTE, and Thor couldn't source one for me either. A place in Ireland could build me one for £200, so I built my own using the connectors & case from a cheap N/A ECU with the circuitry gutted.

I'm really interested now, damnit! This could get expensive...

I suppose it doesn't matter what aftermarket ECU you have, to a point? As long as you map it correctly (not me doing it!) and have the appropriate fuelling...

[jamesmr21987]

maybe u could help with something else my friend has a st205 and has blocked his dump valve off it sounds mint but is it good for it and can I do it to my rev 2 without damage accruing

[Marf]

That "mint" sound is the sound of the turbo compressor blades coming to a stop very quickly and the pressurised air being forced back through them.

General consensus is that this is not good for turbo life.

[Turbonoz]

The blades don't actually come to a stop.

Here's something I wrote on another forum years ago in response to an objectionable poster, so please ignore any sarky comments.

Compressor stall/flutter/pigeon/whatever does not equal compressor surge. There are different scenarios that can cause surge, and also varying results and consequences. Therefore, it is a type of surge. Safe surge!

Surge in a lift-off situation arises due to instantaneously operating to the left of the surge line, (throttle closed: zero flow, increasing pressure) but in this scenario, reverse flow occurs until pressure in the system is equalised and the flow across the compressor blade is stabilised. There is no real-world reliability or performance issue with this, hence "pigeon" is fine. Some people refer to this as stall/chatter/flutter, whatever. Every turbo will experience this when the throttle is closed.

Surge under load is due to using a compresor too large for the application in question, i.e. an inherent design flaw or poor choice of component. The engine simply cannot ingest the amount of air that the compressor is forcing through the cylinders. At WOT, this is detrimental to your turbo, there is much higher flow instability. Once in surge, there's not a lot you can do, as lifting off compounds the problem by further reducing flow in the system to zero at an even higher pressure. Everyone knows & refers to this as 'surge', unlike 'lift-off surge'/chatter/flutter/pigeon. Surge under load can be avoided by using ported compressor housings to recirculate diverted flow and partially venting relief valves which operate during states of low flow. Very useful for BB turbochargers with large compressors and low boost thresholds, that would otherwise surge at low RPM, yet provide high pressure at high RPMs (BIG powahz).

Recirculating dump valves are fitted by manufacturers to keep things nice and quiet (along with resonator boxes and 90° bends in the AFM-turbo trunking), to keep the AFM outputs (where applicable) correct, and for emissions/environmental purposes. Keep everything recirculated in a closed system, be it redundant pressure produced by the turbo between outlet & closed throttle plate, spent exhaust gases (EGR) or fumes from blowby (PCV). As has been proven time & time again, just because a manufacturer fits something as OEM, it doesn't make it desirable when modifying, if you're not restricted by emissions regulations or when components start to wear. But you know this.

I wouldn't recommend running without a dump valve of some kind with a ceramic turbo, however. They need all the help they can get.

Examples of cars I have run with no dump valve:

200SX S13: T70 @ 1.7bar, TD06 @ 1.7 bar; 383bhp@hubs
Fiat Coupe 16VT: T3 @ 1.5 bar
Pulsar, T28 hybrid @ 1.9 bar
MR2: T78 @ 1.6bar and increasing