[Mk2] [NA] drumstick
Moderators: IMOC Moderators, IMOC Committee Members
[Mk2] [NA] drumstick
has anyone changed the steering drumstick, and how do you get it off at the power steering end, 91 jdm
drumstick
Take off the rubber gaiter, put on full lock so that the side you want sticks out of the end of the rack casing a little and you'll see how to do it.
...
Just a tab washer to knock over and then a couple of spanners needed. But it will be tight, so make them big spanners !!!
...Just a tab washer to knock over and then a couple of spanners needed.
But it will be tight, so make them big spanners !!!Re: [Mk2] [NA] drumstick
From an old thread that I posted on....
Ok, this is a hmm, slightly long winded way but it's what I done and the tracking was almost spot on after I completed both sides
Obvious things first, jack the car up and put it on stands, chock rear wheels and remove front wheels.
Undo the locking nut up against the back of the track rod end, then nip it back up finger tight.
Seperate the track rod end from the hub by popping the taper joint.
Undo/cut the clip that holds the rubber boot onto the steering rack. It may be a cable tie if it's been replaced before as MrT don't do the clips anymore..
Pull the boot forward enough to expose the end of the inner rod. There should be a locking tab with a piece bent over onto the end of the inner arm. Use a screw driver to bend it away.
I seem to recall the flats on the inner rod being 27mm, so use a spanner to undo it or a pair of grips if you don't have the exact size. Undo the inner rod assembly complete with track rod end and get out from under the car!
Now, unwind the track rod end from the track rod, being careful not to disturb the locking nut that you nipped up. Once it's completely off, measure the distance from the end of the threaded section to the face of the nut. You can use a rule or if you have them, a digital vernier as it's a little more accurate.
Once you have that distance noted down remove the locking nut completely, slide the boot off of the track rod end and onto the new track rod.
Wind the nut down the new track rod the correct amount plus maybe an 1/8th of a turn. Wind the track rod end onto the track rod until it just about touches the face of the nut, then nip it finger tight.
Pop the new track rod onto the rack, do it up tight and bend the locking tab back over it. Cable tie the boot into place, reassemble the track rod end into the hub. Now tighten fully the locking nut back up against the track rod end.
Like I said it sounds really long winded but it shouldn't take you more than an hour max to do one side. Some people will no doubt say to simply unwind the track rod end off in situ and count the turns but it's not as accurate IMHO.
Hope that helps
Edit: Just to add, I'd recommend using a new boot, they're not all that expensive and you'll be mighty pee'd off if the boot splits a few months down the line....
...Ok, this is a hmm, slightly long winded way but it's what I done and the tracking was almost spot on after I completed both sides
Obvious things first, jack the car up and put it on stands, chock rear wheels and remove front wheels.
Undo the locking nut up against the back of the track rod end, then nip it back up finger tight.
Seperate the track rod end from the hub by popping the taper joint.
Undo/cut the clip that holds the rubber boot onto the steering rack.
It may be a cable tie if it's been replaced before as MrT don't do the clips anymore.. Pull the boot forward enough to expose the end of the inner rod.
There should be a locking tab with a piece bent over onto the end of the inner arm. Use a screw driver to bend it away. I seem to recall the flats on the inner rod being 27mm, so use a spanner to undo it or a pair of grips if you don't have the exact size.
Undo the inner rod assembly complete with track rod end and get out from under the car! Now, unwind the track rod end from the track rod, being careful not to disturb the locking nut that you nipped up.
Once it's completely off, measure the distance from the end of the threaded section to the face of the nut. You can use a rule or if you have them, a digital vernier as it's a little more accurate. Once you have that distance noted down remove the locking nut completely, slide the boot off of the track rod end and onto the new track rod.
Wind the nut down the new track rod the correct amount plus maybe an 1/8th of a turn.
Wind the track rod end onto the track rod until it just about touches the face of the nut, then nip it finger tight. Pop the new track rod onto the rack, do it up tight and bend the locking tab back over it.
Cable tie the boot into place, reassemble the track rod end into the hub. Now tighten fully the locking nut back up against the track rod end. Like I said it sounds really long winded but it shouldn't take you more than an hour max to do one side.
Some people will no doubt say to simply unwind the track rod end off in situ and count the turns but it's not as accurate IMHO. Hope that helps
Edit: Just to add, I'd recommend using a new boot, they're not all that expensive and you'll be mighty pee'd off if the boot splits a few months down the line.
...