[Mk2] [Generic] Twangy clunk sound - from front ARB possibly

[RobPhoboS]

Hey guys,

I've had a pair of (new) whiteline's antirollbars fitted to my car about a year ago, initially the rear made a similar sound but the front was fine. When we inspected the rear it was due to the wrong droplinks, so every now and then it would rub against the inner-wheel arch.
However, about 2 weeks ago I've noticed that the front is making a similar sound usually at low speeds when I'm going over a gradient change - ie multistory car park ramps.

On saturday we had a quick look at it at 3S but couldn't find any signs of the ARB knocking into anything, and the drop links are fine.
I'll have another look this weekend but just wondered if anyone else has experienced this ?

[dazzz]

I would guess at the suspension top cup. The end of your damper should locate into this snug as a bug. It probably isn't snug but worn.

Put your hand under the wheel arch, push and pull the spring to see if the noise is there.

[RobPhoboS]

I'll definitely look at that, which reminds me.
We did notice that the camber is different on either side at the front, and since Wheels in Motion did it, I know they did it properly so would be equal both sides.
I wonder if the dodgy roads have loosened it in that case.

Time to get the tools out (when I get home)

[RobPhoboS]

Just jacked the car up, and took the front right wheel off (as this is the side it really sounds like it's coming from).
Nothing out of place, everything felt tight.

I also think it makes the noise as I'm turning and going over or down a gradient, it hasn't made a noise going over dips in the road or speed bumps.

[dazzz]

Try to spin the spring

[2tmike]

Sounds very much like the top mount tight or siezed.....if it's siezed the spring will turn in the cup as mentioned before and make the twang noise..

[KarlBristol]

I'd agree with everyone else - its definately your suspension bezel cup

Mine is doing exactly the same at the moment as they are both worn. I've got replacements, but just don't have the car ATM as its in the bodyshop, lol.

The holes in the cups that the main suspension arm fits through are circular with two sides slightly straight to ensure that there's no movement. It doesn't take very much to wear this away and the springs are then able to turn in their seats

[RobPhoboS]

I dont think it's my bezel cup/top mount purely because it's pretty newish BC Racing coilovers. It could be over tightened I guess.

And the springs were always able to rotate a bit when trying to turn it with your hand, so I didn't have any pre-load and WIM didn't add any pre-load tension either.

Is there anything I can do that'll help ?
Record audio/pics etc

[dazzz]

I bet you haven't inserted the damper into the cup properly. I've done this myself.

Can the top nut be turned even though it all feels tight.?

[RobPhoboS]

I bet you haven't inserted the damper into the cup properly. I've done this myself.

Can the top nut be turned even though it all feels tight.?

Is there a chance the crappy road conditions could have knocked it out ?

As WIM did the full geo back in December and it's been great. Around (roughly) the same time as this sound appeared I'm sure it felt as if the tracking was out slightly. Although usually if my car is pulling a bit to one side it's just the tyre pressures needing topping up.

When you say top nut, how do you mean, as I have 4 nuts holding the shock, 4 adjustable nuts for the camber and one dial for the damper adjustment.

[dazzz]

I'm thinking of normal stock suspension.

With normal suspension you shouldn't be able to turn the large centre nut at the top of the damper when it's tight. When the cup is damaged you can keep turning it once it is tight. This is becuase the damper isn't slotted into the top cup correctly.

On a normal car the large centre nut is the big nut at the end of your damper rod.

Road conditions could knock it out but it would have to have been fitted worngly i think in the first place.

[KarlBristol]

I'm thinking of normal stock suspension.

With normal suspension you shouldn't be able to turn the large centre nut at the top of the damper when it's tight. When the cup is damaged you can keep turning it once it is tight. This is becuase the damper isn't slotted into the top cup correctly.

On a normal car the large centre nut is the big nut at the end of your damper rod.

Road conditions could knock it out but it would have to have been fitted worngly i think in the first place.

+1 - I still maintain this is the issue...

[RobPhoboS]

Hmm, not sure what to do, take it to WIM or JDModified (3S) ?
I don't really want to mess about with it and willy something up.

[RobPhoboS]

Going to see James and co on Saturday morning, hopefully the problem can at least be identified if not sorted

Of course I'll report back.

[dantheman]

you stripped the sound deadening off the floor?

[RobPhoboS]

you stripped the sound deadening off the floor?

Not yet.
It definitely sounds like a spring, or the ARB though.

[RobPhoboS]

We gave it a little pre-load on the spring collars, it seems to have solved the sound.
The springs weren't in good condition surprisingly (I had washed them every so often during the winter), so perhaps some softer ones is the right way to go now.

Edit:
Still heard the sound a bit but not as much as before.
I'm fairly sure it's the spring rotating slighlty, and it's definitely the right sound for it.