[Mk2] [Turbo] Worth fitting a ct20turbo on my rev 2?

[Luke820]

Is it worth fitting a ct20 turbo to my rev 2? What mods are needed and is it a big difference? Would I need to change my ecu?

[dantheman]

Its only really worth it if you run more than 14 PSI and consistantly hit the redline. The CT26 doesnt hold boost to redline, only about 5500 rpm and above 14 PSI is very inefficient.

Other than that the CT20b has a smoother power delivery.

If you dont run high boost and constantly drive it to redline, dont bother.

[Luke820]

Oh right I just want to make it faster without spending loads of money. Do u know what a rev 2 engines safe at? I would like to get a ecu bigger injectors and turn the boost up but I don't want to lose the reliability.

[Driftlimits Performance]

well worth it. It's much better. It will feel faster at the same boost.

[Al-sw20]

Best mod for a gen2 IMO. It is like night and day with power delivery.

Running 1 bar on 98 octane seems to be pretty reliable.

[Luke820]

Did u have to get a ecu and remap it to run 1bar? Surely u can't just turn your boost up without a map it will damage the engine?

[Driftlimits Performance]

16psi is your maximum. Make sure your engine is healthy first.

[Luke820]

So I can just get a boost controller turn it up to say 13-14 psi and I don't need to do anything else? Sorry for all the questions I'm new to mucking about with the boost! Lol

[Al-sw20]

Yes you can just turn it up. Hell I run 19psi through a stock gen2 3sgte motor with 108 octane race gas when I go to the track

Motor should be in top shape though. New copper plugs, new leads, dizzy cap, rotor, fuel filter. Don't have to worry about new ecu or anything. You might need to disable the boost cut though. You can either pay heaps of money for a fcd, or if you are handing with electronics, build your own, or if you are Scottish like me and are tighter than a ducks....you can just pull the boost pressure sensor hose out of the bottom of the boost pressure sensor next to your diagnostic box in the engine bay. You just plug the hose up with a bolt, or use that feed from the manifold that is now spare for your boost gauge. Be aware, you don't have any boost cut now if you do that. Never bothered me.

[djpkins]

How long have you been running that lump at 19psi with standard ecu and inj's? you still running the oem pistons? do you have water/meth kit onboard?
Luke...you'll pop that lump like a ballon if you wind it up that much mate.
Follow the well documented route thats already paved out for you on here...read as much as you can about the whole deal and take it from there.
a popular opinion is...rev1/2 engine -1bar, rev3+ 1.2bar...your in danger of piston damage if you go much more....remeber, all of these cars have been battered for 15-20 years.
Don't disable anything unless your absolutely sure you know whats what, you need to take into account more things than just more boost matey.
More fuel, timing, flow through the head and out the otherside, det knock...popshebangrattle....and then your on shanks' pony mate.
Also read T.F.S thread about his build, he doesn't follow the rules either...lol...Bob Hattons engine build thread is a good one aswell. I'm not saying be a sheep, just gen up before you do it.

I've checked out matey's 365rwhp thing on youtube...his engine specs are hooj...Simplified Mod List...

ATS Racing Head (no porting or polishing, just Engle valve springs and multi-angle valve job)
GSC S1 268 cams
ATS adjustable cam gears (exhaust retarded 5 degrees)
2.0L Forged block
1200cc injectors and supporting fuel system mods
Apexi Power FC standalone ecu
CT20b gen 3 turbo

..all that with a ceramic exhaust wheel...

[Al-sw20]

I'm not recommending running 19psi. I said 1 bar (14.5psi) would be fine on 98 octane.

I only run 19psi with racegas, which is leaded and 108 octane. Boost doesn't kill motors. Detonation does. 108 octane prevents detonation.

[dantheman]

well worth it. It's much better. It will feel faster at the same boost.

Each to their own i guess. I miss the spank in the backside at 3500rpm with the CT26. WIth the CT20b i will put my foot down, look at the speedo and be doing 20 mph more than i thought so id say it feeling slower.

[Luke820]

Ok thanks ideally I want to get an ecu and turn the boost up to 14psi I don't like the idea of just wacking the boost up without a map.

[Al-sw20]

May as well just keep it 100% stock if you are that concerned about reliability.

[Luke820]

I'm not that concerned I wouldnt go smashing it up to 19psi that's just asking for trouble 14 psi will be fine

[dantheman]

Ok thanks ideally I want to get an ecu and turn the boost up to 14psi I don't like the idea of just wacking the boost up without a map.

Bare in mind that phase equates to more than £800, which is a very large amount of money to spend on about 30 hp

[Al-sw20]

Oh right I just want to make it faster without spending loads of money.

I would like to get a ecu bigger injectors and turn the boost up but I don't want to lose the reliability.

Those two statements don't mix.

If you don't want to spend loads of money turn the boost up to 1 bar and make sure the motor is in top shape.

[djpkins]

^^^^^^ tis the truth...chasing power is an expensive game...before you start you should replace the leads, plugs, cap and rotor, water temp sensor, oil, thermostat and a coolant change.

eg...mates rev 3, 294fwbhp /290ftlbs at 1.2bar controlled by an APEXi avcr and fueled by an APEXi power fc, running a Radtech charge cooler, 3" dp, Blitz nur spec...that 2k right there, plus another £300 for mapping...which can't be messed up with shonky ignition componants, hence the new leads etc...

[Steve Horrocks]

CT20b, 1 bar, better IC or CC and just drive it. (As said, make sure all is healthy first, plugs leads, dizzy, timing, etc) No need for ECU (although, can do a rev3 conversion)

But remember the old mantra

Power - Reliability - Cheap

Choose any two you like!!

[Peter Gidden]

Do not be too disappointed if your head gasket blows if you turn the boost up.

Rev1 and 2 had fibre head gaskets, and they're 20 years old now, and it is not an uncommon occurence.

Not trying to put you off, but at least now you've been warned.