Wheel stud query - Are the splines tapered

[Jaspa]

I have a slight problem in that I need to get a locking wheel nut off without the key. Now in my "Brute force and ignorance" stage I started to drill straight through the stud but got bored far to quickly.

I've figured that a better solution would be to drop the hub/strut to get to the back of the hub and grind the back of the stud off and knock it through. This is on a breaker so doesn't matter about the hub, just want to get to the Suspension and WMS Brakes.

The problem is, I can't remember if the section with the splines is tapered to stop them pushing through from the back. Does anyone know?

Stuart

[elbon50]

What kind of locking nut Stuart

With some you can hammer an old socket on

Peter

[Jaspa]

With some you can hammer an old socket on

That was my 1st attempt unfortunately Socket A was too large and Socket B was too small. I've killed the nut now anyway. Most of the wall is ~1mm thick if that in places.

I have the other one to do though so...
It's a circle with 3 1/2 circles cut out evenly spaced around one edge. Not a Toyota one unfortunately as I've got loads of them left over.

[elbon50]

I put a socket on one that wasnt a tight enough fit

So knocked the socket sideways a few times with a club hammer

Thus slackened the nut sufficiently to shift it

Peter

[IanParkhouse]

How about a grinder on the wheel?

[Jaspa]

I put a socket on one that wasnt a tight enough fit

So knocked the socket sideways a few times with a club hammer

Thus slackened the nut sufficiently to shift it

Peter

I'll give that a go on the other nut. I think I may have over done this one already.

How about a grinder on the wheel?

I'm hoping to reuse the wheel unfortunately, although this may be a last resort.

Looking at some pics it looks like the slines are straight so I should be OK with the above plan. Plus I get to play with angle grinders, always a win.

[pk_090]

we used to have a big long peice of solid steel that we would rest up against the nut, and then smack the rod with a sledge hammer quite a few times (this loosens everything off, and eventually it may unthread itself with enough brute force.) We would then take an air chisel and "turn them off."
Alex

[cartledge_uk]

Pop to halfords

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255216

[Jaspa]

Awesome, Cheers Timmy
I was looking at a professional jobby but they were around £125 I think I can afford £16 even if it doesn't work.

Stuart

[kaiowas]

Difficult to get an accurate measurement but after a quick play I reckon there's about 0.3mm difference in the diameter of the hole through the hub flange from one side to the other, so a very slight taper.

I'd go for grinding the back of the stud off and give the rest of it a good whack with a substantial hammer. If that doesn't work you can always grind through the small amount of metal between the hole and the outer edge of the flange to loosen everything up sufficiently.