[Mk2] [Turbo] Alarm arming and central locking out of sync

[Magic Beans]

I've got a Meta M99T2 cat 1 alarm, which was fitted to the tubby I bought recently. It's a great alarm, however it has a little quirk which has foxed me ever since I bought it..

For some reason the alarm arming and central locking are out of sync. So when I use the fob alarm arms and vice versa. I've had the battery disconnected for 30 mins etc however to no avail.

Is there something obvious I'm overlooking? As currently I'm having to arm it then lock the doors with the key

[gazrev1tubby]

Is the alarm definately wired to the central locking ?

[Magic Beans]

Yup. When you arm the alarm, with the doors unlocked, it doesn't lock the doors. Then when you disarm the alarm the doors lock and vice versa when you arm the alarm again.

I've done some searching on it and can't really find anything solid on what might be causing it. Other than disconnecting the battery for 30 mins, which I've done several times during recent work.

[Magic Beans]

Right then, it's time to focus on solving this little mystery.

Does anyone have any pointers on where I'm better to start looking?

[Peter Gidden]

It honestly sounds as though the lock/unlock signal wires from the alarm to the CDL have been connected the wrong way round. I know it seems unlikely, but TBH you don't know the brain cell count of whoever installed it, and rule no.1 when buying a used car is assume nothing!

So, now to find where Mr Muppet may have connected his wires to your loom. It is quite often done in the driver's front footwell. Remove sill trim panel and around the bonnet pull area will be a bunch of loom plugs and sockets. Can you see two wires spliced to two loom wires?

[Magic Beans]

Hi Peter,

I actually had that panel off just the other day, when moving the turbo timer EVC and installing the ICE head units to my standards. A bit of custom metalwork, priming and painting later and it's much more pleasing.

Anyway, I digress, sorry..

There was/is a vast amount of wires behind there, around the ignition key area. Working out which does what could be interesting, but I guess it's a good way to learn how it all works, as well as spot any "quirks" in the set-up. Like the mystery push button which sits next to the rear fogs switch Is there anything specific I should look out for? It's a good opportunity to label everything while I'm doing it, another headache avoided in the future.

[Magic Beans]

Here's some shots of the wiring, both next to the bonnet release and underneath (and to the right if) the steering column.

The first is the release area wiring, followed by a shot taken upwards from near the release catch to the steering area. The last two are of the wiring around. the steering column area *EDIT* They're actually the opposite way around, so work from 4 to 1.

http://s1072.photobucket.com/albums/w373/Magic__Beans/

I did try to add the photos on here, but got shall we say "frustrated" with the use of HTML, so did it the spit and sawdust way.

I checked the wiring loom along the length of the sill, back to the bonnet release area. There were no splices, there was only a black wire (aerial) and a single red wire or unknown original.[/img]

[gazrev1tubby]

Iirc, the central locking wires are blue with a white trace, and blue with a black trace.
There are also black wires that control the central locking (blk\ylw and blk\wht ?) but I think they go to the switch, and not directly to the motor.

Don't take that as gospel, but it might point you in the right direction. The locks are neg pulsed, so touch an earth wire to the suspect cable, and it'll throw the lock open or closed to determine the correct one\s to connect to.

[Pidge]

Wow that looks like a mine field of fun! Looks like alot of aftermarket bodgery!

In the 4th picture the with boxes to the right of the two bullet connectors is the socket the central locking wires go into.

Central Locking - Negative
Lock - Thin black wire in o/s/f door harness 
Unlock - Thin black/yellow wire in o/s/f door harness

Find the above in the door loom and you should see the join in the alarm, as mentioned if they are the wrong way around then you will get locked out when you want to get in and vice versa.

Good luck bud

[Magic Beans]

Thanks guys

If I can trace the wires back to where the splice has been made, that should hopefully be half the battle won. In theory..

I thought I'd create an album for the whole car while I was at it http://s1072.photobucket.com/albums/w37 ... he%20Mule/

[Magic Beans]

I've had another look and have found two wires (black and white) feeding out of the loom in the frunk and connecting behind (but not into) the horn. You can see these in photos (which are now) 1 and 2.

http://s1072.photobucket.com/albums/w373/Magic__Beans/

I also found some more wires and connectors in and around the bonnet release catch. One (yellow one labelled Siemens) looks to the a relay, with 4 wires coming out of it. Beautifully held together with electrical tap The white one next to it is a connector, which looks stock but isn't connected anywhere?! The third is the green box labelled Toyota, which I assume is standard, however what it does I don't know.

I can sense that when I know this tubby better I'll be pulling these and doing a proper job. Not for a while though

[Magic Beans]

The wires in question:



- The fuse is linked to the alarm, power I assume.

- Frunk wires, next to the horn

[Magic Beans]

Just a quick update to say that the issue is now solved, after a visit to see Peter @ SBITS on Saturday. It turned out that a couple of wires which fed into the CL ECU were wired the wrong way round, as predicted. so it look like someone had pulled the bullet connectors apart (accidentally?) when doing some other work and reconnected them thr wrong way around.

Now it's all working perfectly