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,, - 17173-88382 (Rev1)-16347-88380 (Rev1)- 17279-88480 (Rev3+)(Oil Pipe to Turbo) - 15471-88380 (Rev1)(Union bolt to block) 15526-88381 (Rev 1)- 17278-88480 (Rev 3+)..and re-used all the old gaskets...used high temp silicone for the coolant feed...replaced with new and no probs at all...save yourself quite a bit if you don't have to buy that lot.-remove heat shield. Remove intercooler pipes if necessary-remove intake elbow-unplug oxygen sensor-unbolt downpipe from flexi pipe as well as any downpipe or turbo supporting brackets-from underneath the car get a long socket on the nuts that hold the turbo oil return pipe to the turbo. use plenty of wd40 on the studs.-undo the lower 2 of the 4 bolts that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold. will require a series of extensions and a lot of wiggling to get the socket over the bolt properly.-from above undo the other 2 turbo to manifold bolts with a ratchet or normal spanner-the turbo should now be completely free apart from a few hoses. All weight is being supported by oil return pipe. it can handle this but try not to let the turbo hang on it for prolonged periods-undo water feed pipes (or i think you can leave them attached and remove the rubber hoses at the other ends of the pipes)-remove rubber hose from TVSV pipe to actuator-lift turbo up off oil return pipe and try and wiggle turbo and downpipe up and over the engine.-change over downpipe, refit gaskets etc and fit in reverse. make sure you position the oil return studs into the oil return pipe first as you lower the turbo down...but yeah...not hard but a process that needs to be done methodically...I let the oil feed/return pipe get bent out of shape when I was lifting the turbo out (it's quite soft) which gave me a headache when it came to re-attach as it's very fiddly...even more so when you have big hands...so I opted to remove the oil feed/return pipe still attched to the turbo but disconnected at the sump/block...doesn't matter which way, but be gentle with it...they have been known to crack when pulled about.djpkins wrote:I thought their was also an issue with the heat shield from ct26 not fitting a ct20 but mine fits fine with all 3 holes lined up.
only the top 2 bolt holes lined up for mine. without the bottom one the heat shield rattles like mad, so i just lifted the heat shield up and put the bolt in the bottom hole so that the heat shield sits on it under compression. that stopped it rattling. or you can just drill a new hole whilst the turbo is out the car. much easier than trying to work out where the new hole should be in situe.,, that oil return pipe is a pain in the ar$e I replaced mine a few months back and cracked it trying to fit it off to Toyota again lol ..,, just there pretty weak have snapped one before 
- no bending required....'94 rev3 NA, '92 rev2 Turbo forged, '07 Civic Type-R..or it'll be mend it...or spend it...again..lol..goddam jizz pipe on mine is still leaking a wee bit, so I must've cracked/split it very slightly when changing the blower...I shant bother with another and will get a braided hose and applicable fittings. 
,, i can see where the oil feed pipes go but the ones above it what are those for 
,,,,, plus is a ct20 a straight swap froma ct26 
..(just says Toyota on the housing), or have you gone and bought a ct20 diesel turbo (useless)?jimGTS wrote:This a refurbed Mr2 ct20b
](./images/smilies/eusa_wall.gif "Brick wall"){kind=small}
,,and after a call to luke and a mate ... but cant get the 4 bolts of at all used wd40 ,, heat they wont budge so went to remove the manifold thinking well get it all off least i can take it too a garage to get them off ,,, but the bottom bolts are different size some 17 and some 14 nope the 2 bolts on the bottom close togehter again is baked on ,,tried wd40 ,,, long sockets etc ,, tried those irwin hings to cut into the bolt but nope the little sod wont move ,, had a guts full of it ,, any got any ideas or tips to help ,, before i take the hammer to her , asking alot but will sort u out beer lol