well my mr2 is going into my mates garage soon to get the hg changed and im just looking for info from you guys on whats i need for it and costs off parts and where to get them from?
heres wat ive thought of so far.. headgasket set, coolant, thermostat, oil, sump gasket, spark plugs....
also how do i get rid off the tvis rattle ??
cheers james
changing headgasket
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Re: changing headgasket
Are you sure you need to remove the sump James ?
Personally I would get the head gasket set from Mr T, regardless of price
Peter
Personally I would get the head gasket set from Mr T, regardless of price
Peter
Re: changing headgasket
sorry i just meant the washer when changing the oil, any ideas how much a set is?
Re: changing headgasket
If you're changing oil dont forget to change the filter James
You'll need to check prices with your local Toyota garage
They'll ask you for the VIN number of your car. They use that to check that they are quoting for the correct parts
Peter
You'll need to check prices with your local Toyota garage
They'll ask you for the VIN number of your car. They use that to check that they are quoting for the correct parts
Peter
Last edited by elbon50 on Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: changing headgasket
You might aswell put a new water pump on also while your at it, cost less then £30 for a new one. Pump can be done with the cambelt still on but much easier with it off.
Re: changing headgasket
If you're not sure if the head has been off previously, swap the head bolts
Re: changing headgasket
A common option if you don't want to take out a mortgage to buy the full gasket set from Toyota is to buy a pattern head gasket set from a factor, then throw away the HG itself and use all the other bits along with a genuine Toyota HG
Re: changing headgasket
kaiowas wrote:A common option if you don't want to take out a mortgage to buy the full gasket set from Toyota is to buy a pattern head gasket set from a factor, then throw away the HG itself and use all the other bits along with a genuine Toyota HG
That seems like a real good tip
Must remember that one
Peter
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Re: changing headgasket
It's up to you but as other's have suggested use a genuine Toyota HG.
I only use Toyota parts on my car so would get everything including plugs from Toyota.
I only use Toyota parts on my car so would get everything including plugs from Toyota.
2020 GR Yaris - Circuit Pack
Re: changing headgasket
finally got round to ordering all the parts and should get round to changing it next week.. im just wondering can the washers on the rocker cover bolts be re used or do you have to order some new ones? and does anyone know how much head bolts cost? full set obv!!
also seeing that my tvis linkages are worn im wondering could i take the tvis off mine mk1a(that im breaking) and put it onto my mk1b that i drive daliy???
also seeing that my tvis linkages are worn im wondering could i take the tvis off mine mk1a(that im breaking) and put it onto my mk1b that i drive daliy???
Re: changing headgasket
If you're doing things by the book then they should be replaced (the HG kit will generally dome with some) but they can be reused at a push if you manage to get the old ones off without destroying them, I've done it a few times with no leakage.
Genuine Toyota head bolts were about £50-60 for the set from memory when I had to buy some.
Genuine Toyota head bolts were about £50-60 for the set from memory when I had to buy some.
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Re: changing headgasket
Don't see a problem with swapping TVIS linkages over, they should the be the same.
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Re: changing headgasket
did you go with toyota parts?
Hopefully im planning to do a full engine rebuild and was thinking of doing the works. would OEM still be better than tuning company itesm such as Greddy for the oil filter ARP headbolts etc?
Hopefully im planning to do a full engine rebuild and was thinking of doing the works. would OEM still be better than tuning company itesm such as Greddy for the oil filter ARP headbolts etc?
Re: changing headgasket
Have bought a K&N oil filter & some 0W40 fully synthetic for the engine
Intend to use Dextron III ATF in the transaxle
Some members dont like those ideas
Peter
Intend to use Dextron III ATF in the transaxle
Some members dont like those ideas
Peter
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Re: changing headgasket
pk_090 wrote:did you go with toyota parts?
Hopefully im planning to do a full engine rebuild and was thinking of doing the works. would OEM still be better than tuning company itesm such as Greddy for the oil filter ARP headbolts etc?
Unless you are building say a 350bhp twincharged 4AGE I would use stock OEM items for the parts you have mentioned.
Buying a Greddy oil filter is paying for the name, mugtastic really. TRD do do parts as well don't forget, though I personally wouldn't bother with TRD oil filters, just use a stock OEM one.
Mark rebuilt his GZE, he used only OEM parts for everything. Including the honing, balancing and all the parts he got mostly from Toyota in the US came to around £1500.
It's currently sitting in our shed!
2020 GR Yaris - Circuit Pack
Re: changing headgasket
Lauren wrote:pk_090 wrote:did you go with toyota parts?
Hopefully im planning to do a full engine rebuild and was thinking of doing the works. would OEM still be better than tuning company itesm such as Greddy for the oil filter ARP headbolts etc?
Unless you are building say a 350bhp twincharged 4AGE I would use stock OEM items for the parts you have mentioned.
Buying a Greddy oil filter is paying for the name, mugtastic really. TRD do do parts as well don't forget, though I personally wouldn't bother with TRD oil filters, just use a stock OEM one.
Mark rebuilt his GZE, he used only OEM parts for everything. Including the honing, balancing and all the parts he got mostly from Toyota in the US came to around £1500.
It's currently sitting in our shed!
give you a funsize bag of haribo and a snickers trio for it?
well the Greddy oil filter has a wocking great bit magnet in and i can get for the same price as a OEM filter. Im not planning for a big one i just want an engine that willl withstand the abuse its going to get...
Re: changing headgasket
FWIW, I've done a HG twice on a my trackday MK1 - I'd definitely recommend getting the Toyota set. ( see http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=50924 )
The first time I used a cheap gasket kit ( about £50 all in - branded FAI ) and the HG went again after nine months.
Pulling it all apart the second time, you could see the poor quality from the first HG set - where the HG had failed, plus the exhaust gasket was leaking in places having broken down etc.
Given a full 'Top end' HG set from Mr T is about £120 ( or was, three years back ) I bought that the second time around and then had no problems until I sold the car. I also picked up the idlers and water pump whilst I was doing the job.
The first time I used a cheap gasket kit ( about £50 all in - branded FAI ) and the HG went again after nine months.
Pulling it all apart the second time, you could see the poor quality from the first HG set - where the HG had failed, plus the exhaust gasket was leaking in places having broken down etc.
Given a full 'Top end' HG set from Mr T is about £120 ( or was, three years back ) I bought that the second time around and then had no problems until I sold the car. I also picked up the idlers and water pump whilst I was doing the job.
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Re: changing headgasket
No matter what you do, please please inpsect the block surface around number 4 bore to coolant jacket... if it's not perfect here then it won't matter wether you use Toyota gaskets or not.
This area is the number one cause of 4a-ge gasket failures, the block corrodes/gets eaten away (some electrolytic process going on between alloy head/iron block/coolant) plus that end of the engine runs hotter resulting in the corrosion which effectively kills the engine, unless you pull it out and have the block decked flat again.
We've seen this area 2-3mm deep in worst cases and that is the equivalent of the Grand canyon in engineering terms. If it's badly pitted you might get away with using chemical metal and sanding that flat as an intermediate fix.
Basically check the block and head with a flat edge thoroughly.
This area is the number one cause of 4a-ge gasket failures, the block corrodes/gets eaten away (some electrolytic process going on between alloy head/iron block/coolant) plus that end of the engine runs hotter resulting in the corrosion which effectively kills the engine, unless you pull it out and have the block decked flat again.
We've seen this area 2-3mm deep in worst cases and that is the equivalent of the Grand canyon in engineering terms. If it's badly pitted you might get away with using chemical metal and sanding that flat as an intermediate fix.
Basically check the block and head with a flat edge thoroughly.