[Mk2] [Turbo] Block - cylinder liners

[Mike N]

Block - cylinder liners (sleeved block).

Does anyone know where to get this done and is it possible to retain an 87mm bore to suit my forged Wiseco pistons.

What are the lasting results?

The block cracked on number 2 cyl.

I have sleeved many Sierra Cosworth blocks in the past with great success using "top hat" style liners, but the 3sgte cylinder walls are much thinner.


Many Thanks

[dawesy]

sleaving the 3S dosnt stop cracking to be fair . perfect bore will do a part wet liner conversion on it but it was £1800 last time i enquired.
i use evans collant and the block is part filled with hardblok since i cracked one with 86.5mm pistons, no probs since

[mark239]

I got the sleeves from engine logics and had them installed for £400.

Got them bored to 86mm.

Some people like them, some don't - but I'll tell you this - I recently had all 4 pistons melt after a hard run, and the bores are all still perfect. Not even a scratch!

[Mike N]

Mine is cracked vertically 30mm from the top of the bore on pot 2, the crack is about 40mm long. Concrete in this block wouldnt work I think.

I had heard of drag racers cementing blocks on turbo pinto lumps before cossie's came into being, but havent heard it used on road cars.

Mine cracked whilst I was minding my own business driving steadly along (not over 70 mph) on the motorway trying to save fuel.

I straight edged the head and even that didnt get damaged!

If I can find a set of 86 or 86.25 forged pistons my 900 mile old imaculate 87's will be up for grabs / swaps.

Cheers

[dawesy]

yep sounds like the same crack as me

mine was cyl 3
mine is a street engine and has been cemented for a few years and about 7000 miles now with no issues, oil temps are a couple of deg higher but im still using the stock cooler.
because it shortens the unsupported length of the cylinder it will prevent the flex that causes the crack. short fill kit for a small block chevy was about £60 and youd have enough for 4 or 5 3S blocks. got mine from webster racing IIRC

[Mike N]

dawsey

Do you have any more details on your block and how did you pour the mix in around the cylinders?

Could'nt find the website, can you put up a proper link? Any more fuller details & pics would be good. I will be looking into this, have you got any stuff left to do my block with?

Like the photo its just like mine lol.

Cheers
Mike

[dawesy]

heres a link for the filler itself
http://www.hardblok.com/
and i ordered it from here
[/url] http://www.webster-race-engineering.co.uk [/url]
havent got any left as i did two blocks and someone else had the rest as they had a couple to do.
it comes with mixing instructions which must be followed carefully but you will need some scales and a calculator as the instructions are for mixing a full bag (you get two in the kit one for each bank on a V8)
once mixed (i used a mixing blade in a drill) use a funnel to pour down the holes in the top of the block leading to the water jacket. its important that the main bearing caps are installed and torqued up and the block is perfectly level.
keep filling moving around the block and use a wire rod to push the mix around. keep filling until your level with the bottom of the water pump port.
clean the top of the block to remove and spilt material and then fit headgasket and head and torque down leave for 24 hours and thats it.
send the block off for machining after its been treated not before as it kind of acts like a deck plate holing the bores in the shape the were with the head installed.
hope that helps a bit

[Mike N]

Thanks dewsey

That helps alot.

I was about to re-sleeve a block and bore out after, but I will look deeper into what you have done first.

Have just had an email from the manufacturer, suggesting that they wont garentee the block against cracks, but say its still the best way to prevent any potential damage.

Mike