just wondering if anyone has converted from the hydraulic clutch to a mechanical cable driven one, i have a spare rev2 gb in the garage and i was looking the other day it's pretty simple to convert, the cable down the tranny tunnel to the pedal is what seem's to be the most difficult part, was just wondering if anyone had done it and could give me an idea of the problems i will inevitably encounter it'll be worth it in the long run imo
thanks all
stupid hydraulics!
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Re: stupid hydraulics!
Why?
Its on the outside of the box so its not a problem if it fails and they arnt a common fault anyway.
Pointless task it woud seem, to me.
Its on the outside of the box so its not a problem if it fails and they arnt a common fault anyway.
Pointless task it woud seem, to me.
Re: stupid hydraulics!
each to there own but i would agree seems a wasted effort cable will give bother long before the standard system
Re: stupid hydraulics!
mostly just looking into it, and i know people will laugh when i say weight reduction but it all weigh's lol
i'm sure they don't go wrong hydraulics is pretty bullet proof in general, just want to take it back to basic's really no need for all this fancy engineering imo although research will have to be made as if the cable's going to stretch under loads or rub on the body or linkages it won't be worth it
i'm sure they don't go wrong hydraulics is pretty bullet proof in general, just want to take it back to basic's really no need for all this fancy engineering imo although research will have to be made as if the cable's going to stretch under loads or rub on the body or linkages it won't be worth it
Re: stupid hydraulics!
the clutch won't be as smooth or light with a cable.
why not look into running a shorter pipe run if your after saving some weight. you can also get lighter slave cylinders for race boxes.
how about removing the pipes from hell and blocking them up at the engine end, then putting 2 'T' connectors on the main rad pipes in the frunk that lead to the heater, that would save loads more weight.
the total weight of the pipe run with fluid would be very similar to (if not lighter) a cable with the outer to keep it dry and rust free. you could save more weight by taking out 1 of the speakers from the cabin. or taking the tar off the floor under the carpets.
i'm going mental on weight saving on my car and the clutch isn't an area i'm looking at, except maybe a slightly shorter pipe run for the fluid line. which would save me very little.
how much weight saving have you done so far?
i've got over 70kg out and i've still got the seats, full doors, clutch etc to come out.
the stereo wire loom is 1.6kg on it's own, without the 3 amps and 8 speakers.
if you want some ideas or tips on weight saving then ask the guys in the motorsport part of the forum, or ask here. i live for weight saving.
why not look into running a shorter pipe run if your after saving some weight. you can also get lighter slave cylinders for race boxes.
how about removing the pipes from hell and blocking them up at the engine end, then putting 2 'T' connectors on the main rad pipes in the frunk that lead to the heater, that would save loads more weight.
the total weight of the pipe run with fluid would be very similar to (if not lighter) a cable with the outer to keep it dry and rust free. you could save more weight by taking out 1 of the speakers from the cabin. or taking the tar off the floor under the carpets.
i'm going mental on weight saving on my car and the clutch isn't an area i'm looking at, except maybe a slightly shorter pipe run for the fluid line. which would save me very little.
how much weight saving have you done so far?
i've got over 70kg out and i've still got the seats, full doors, clutch etc to come out.
the stereo wire loom is 1.6kg on it's own, without the 3 amps and 8 speakers.
if you want some ideas or tips on weight saving then ask the guys in the motorsport part of the forum, or ask here. i live for weight saving.
Re: stupid hydraulics!
not got the car atm lol, i am selling my t-bar to get a tintop to save weight, had a rev2 t-bar before this '93 t-bar and kept most of the corners, the hubs are shokingly heavy! i had considered looking into the pipes from hell i said to my m8 not long ago i recon you could fit a small rad in the engine bay where the old useless extractor fan used to be reducing the system size and weight massivley, it'd probably also make the car alot more user friendly when bleeding the system although engine bay would be tight and weight balance may be upset having so little on the front end. i'm trying to keep rallying in mind another reason i'd prefer cable (i can fix it with a shoelace at the side of the road) i know the clutch will be heavy but i'll cope as long as it's not slipping, a heavy duty and making the left leg work harder may solve that should i encounter slippage.
i'm mad for the weight saving i'm cutting down my old eng loom and going carb trying 2 loose as much and make as basic as possible i'm looking at the fiberglass doors from crabenfibre perspex some windows fiberglass bootlid and engine lid, wana keep the bonnet metal to keep weight on nose, someone said 20kg can be lost from the brake's but i didn't want to remove them really
i'm mad for the weight saving i'm cutting down my old eng loom and going carb trying 2 loose as much and make as basic as possible i'm looking at the fiberglass doors from crabenfibre perspex some windows fiberglass bootlid and engine lid, wana keep the bonnet metal to keep weight on nose, someone said 20kg can be lost from the brake's but i didn't want to remove them really