Full respray???

[smokeejoe]

Hello im going for a full respray on my project mk1 only ever sprayed single panels and motorcycle parts before this, never anything on this scale. Does anybody have any recomendations were i can get colour matched paint from for super red?? Also does anybody know how much primer, paint and laquer i would require for a full respray? Any tips things to be carefull of etc would be greatly appreciated. Also were can i get the gold strip that goes around the spoiler? or do i need to get 1 made up? sorry for the essay.
thanks in advance for any advice.

[Bender Unit]

Get on yell and look up your nearest auto paints place, they will carry everything you need.

Always wear a suitable respirator – not just a shitty dust mask.

Be cautious of 2k paint as it requires specialist breathing equipment – you can get single use 2k safe masks, but the hardener is nasty stuff and may kill you as it can also be absorbed through the skin, eyes etc – so best avoid.

Cellulose is utter rubbish IMHO and should also be avoided – only had massive issues with cellulose paint and reactions.

2.5l of paint will do the car – when mixed with thinner / hardener as you will have around 5L.

If the existing paint is good just scotch the surface and then paint that rather than priming. If you have to do spot repairs then prime then you will want to prime the repairs.

Its way to cold to spray so unless you can heat the workspace don’t bother until it gets a lot warmer.

A decent gun makes a big difference.

Compressor also needs to be able to keep up with spraying big panels / car.

Use a water oil trap on a clean line.


Search around for a inert paint to save you a lot of stress, Cellulose reacts with pretty much anything, including harsh language and stares! Seriously don’t bother with cellulose it will ruin you!


The mig welding forum is a great source of help and advice!

[Phill P]

So if 2 pack stuffs nasty and cellulose is poo,what should you use (hope to do mine soon)
Can't seem to find much on inert paint
Paul

[Boddney]

Hey Joe,
Get in touch with these people.

http://www.morelli.co.uk/where_we.asp?id=12

The shop I used is at the top of City road on the inner ring road just passed the shops between Queens Road and Brakendale but according to the the website they are now at Longwater Ind Estate at Costessy.

They will colour match any part you take in such as the petrol flap or side air intake or just work off the paint code.
They can do either water based or normal paint and put it in a rattle can or tin for a sprayer and they are really helpful.
I bought acolour matched rattle can from them and it only cost £14.

Hope that helps.
Bod

[smokeejoe]

This may seem quite unbelievable but i have not done any welding repairs, reason for the respray is that the paint has reacted badly to sun light and the laquer is peeling off.

Will definetly avoid cellulose as im sure to swear when it reacts and make it even worse.
My heater is utter rubbish, and shed has no damp course or insulation so will avoid spraying for a while.
What is minimum recomended temperature for spraying?
Thanks for the advice bender unit.

Bod will definetly be getting in touch with these guys, thanks for the link. My bumpers are still the correct colour so will take them for a colour match.

Thanks for the help

[Bender Unit]

I wouldnt bother spraying on anything less than a warm day - which are few and far between in the UK. The colder the day, the slower the paint will take to dry, the more chance for things to land in it, damp / moisture in the air can cause further issues with the paint. 2k dries by chemical reaction

There are alot of paint systems you can use, 1k, acylic, enamels, rustoleum, military paints, water based etc. But I dont know them all. Check out the mig welding forum for better advice.

I tried with cellulose and it was a big fail - despite meticulous prep the paint reacted with the paint underneath the car, and even after sanding it all off again, using barcoat to seal and then trying again I had more issues. I gave up!

On the other hand a mate used some military paint to spray his and 2 other cars in a day - the only prep was a scotch and a wipe down and the pint went on brilliantly, hasnt reacted and is really tough. Unlike cellulose which is softer than baby sh*t.

Next paint job I do I will use the military based paint - comes in the RAL colour range, requires no real prep, hard wearing, cheap and only needs diluting with a small amount of thinners. Dries stupidly fast!

[Kooga]

I sprayed a car on my drive way with cellulose, and it was fine. I did spend about a month flatting and priming it though and was quite meticulous about panel wiping everything before applying paint. I made a 'booth' that I moved from panel to panel out of a large piece of cardboard and a plastic sheet to keep insects and muck off and wet the floor before spraying. The only thing that ruined the finish was the rust that came back through!! Its too cold at the moment but once it warms up or if you have a heated garage, you'll be fine.
Its all in the preparation...

[Tiamat]

The other key to spraying is.... patience.
Work out how long you think it will take, then double that estimate.
Just take your time and you can achieve good results.
Seen some resprays done with rattle cans that are amazing, friend did it, it took him 6 months to complete the respray but it was awesome when done.

[LimeyMk1]

Will definetly avoid cellulose as im sure to swear when it reacts and make it even worse.

My other half resprayed her mk2 with celly, no reactions and the paint is as tough as nails. Only wee bit of bother was the paint consistancy (rather thick) even when thinned down further than recomended.

Someone hit the car about 4 weeks later and she sent it to work for repairs and the pro sprayers couldn't understand how she'd sprayed the whole car when they couldn't even manage to get a nice finish on one bumper

I guess their guns are set up for water based crap they use there.

[smokeejoe]

Thanks for all the advice. Im going to avoid sprayin the bumpers and skirts as these are good so will need to get some colour matched paint i guess this rules out military based paint. Im quiet new to spraying so want something reasonably straight forward. Time is not an issue and from my small amount of previous experience i realise that the more prep i do the better the result will be. I have no heating in the workshop so will put spraying off untill the spring.

[SuperRedMR2]

I'd do the bumpers and the skirts if I were you, because red is a right PITA to match properly.

[smokeejoe]

Is the plastic not a PITA itself to spray? do i need a secial kind of paint, wont normal paint crack?

[attackoftheeddiemunster]

Hello im going for a full respray on my project mk1

Just paint straight to air with arsehole cans.

[sketch]

Just paint straight to air with arsehole cans.

Erm..... What?

[attackoftheeddiemunster]

Just paint straight to air with arsehole cans.

Erm..... What?

It's painting using arsehole/anushole cans (aerosol), normally in the street/outside.

[sketch]

Hmm.....if Smoky wants to do a decent job, rattle cans are not ideal in my experience. Single panels ? Yeah maybe....if a good colour match is found but not the whole car

Besides, the amount of rattle cans he'd have to buy would work out more expensive than a few litres from a paint supplier. Also I find with rattle cans, the spray pressure varies from can to can as does the consistany.

If he's gonna give it a go, he may as well learn to do it right.

[Tiamat]

Hmm.....if Smoky wants to do a decent job, rattle cans are not ideal in my experience. Single panels ? Yeah maybe....if a good colour match is found but not the whole car

Besides, the amount of rattle cans he'd have to buy would work out more expensive than a few litres from a paint supplier. Also I find with rattle cans, the spray pressure varies from can to can as does the consistany.

If he's gonna give it a go, he may as well learn to do it right.

Thats why if you do with aerosol cans, you should remove the car fromt he road, set up, prime etc, tape off EVERYTHING then doa very light dusting using one can over several panels. Build up the colour really slowy, that way any inconsistencies in the spray is hidden.

However as you say it works out BLOODY expensive and is cheaper to get a few litres of something from a supplier. However it can be done, I have seen a few like this that have worked out well.

[sketch]

Thats why if you do with aerosol cans, you should remove the car fromt he road, set up, prime etc, tape off EVERYTHING then doa very light dusting using one can over several panels. Build up the colour really slowy, that way any inconsistencies in the spray is hidden.

However as you say it works out BLOODY expensive and is cheaper to get a few litres of something from a supplier. However it can be done, I have seen a few like this that have worked out well.

Using one can to 'lightly dust' several panels Malc, wont work. It'll take forever and look poop once you've built up the layers (leaving a satin finish). You'll be there 'till next summer flatting it back.

I use the lightly dusting thang when I want a guide coat for judging repairs.

The problem you'll face is dry lining, where one line of paint finishes and the next one begins will leave a 'dry line' which is a nightmare to remedy.

Another problem with rattle cans is the destructions on the back of the can itself, it will tell you to spray from to far away meaning loss of pressure (which is crap anyway) and losing a load of paint in the wind

I gave Monkeymax a lesson on DIY can spraying earlier this year and he couldn't believe how close i was to the bootlid with the can, bootlid looked $hithot when we were done though

Smoky, I know you said you dont want to spray the skirts etc...but they'd be great for practicing due to how narrow they are, work on your method and build up some confidence

[Tiger Tim]

I used an aerosol to spray the rear left side arch & the finish was reasonable & match pretty good. Was Ok for over the past 18 months until I recently overfilled the petrol & the splash out discoloured some of my repair. Turned it white.

Tim

[smokeejoe]

Thanks for all the advice guys.
I have access to spraying equipitment so i think i will go down that route think it will be much more practical, and cheaper.
As far as spraying the skirts and bumpers my concern is that the paint will crack due to the amount the panels flex, is this likely to be a problem?
Am i better off to remove all the fittings? window trims, door handles etc. or just mask round them?