[Mk2] [Turbo] help needed restoring a tubby

[swaggansway]

I have recently invested in a mr2 mk2 rev1 tubby on a j reg. I have previously owned an mr2 thus decided it was time for another. I picked her up really cheep (800) and to be honest she has been ragged, track days I believe! She drove home just fine, about 400 miles I believe, but alas she has many minor problems of which I will list. I wood appreciate and help and suggestions on this one as it is my mission to attempt to restore to her former glory. I am a keen mechanically minded person (I replaced the engine and restored it in my last mr2 and vectra) but I still need help sourcing parts and advice from experienced ppl who have done these jobs before. She is on the road with mot till next august.

Needs pads and disks all-round, i would like to upgrade if possible

Abs is not working though the light on dash does go out

Aux drive belt(s)

Exhaust blow. Has a big bore fitted, I also have the original)

! Clutch realise bearing noisy!

o/s/r s/absorber not damping (upgrade all maybe)

n/s/r w/bearing slight play

Steering rack gaiters split

Front anti roll bar rubbers worn

Oil leak at rocker cover maybe

Seat belts not working

Speedo not working and the engine management light comes on after 50mph

Tyres worn, thinking of upgrading to low profile alloys and tyres

All the tracking needs setting up..... Camber etc at weird position i guess set up for track

Ariel won’t go down

Seriously need new speakers and/or sound system

Engine seems sound I will compression check soon!

Apart from all above her body work is a1 there is no rust to be seen any where! As I said before I am gracious for any thoughts and feedback on this one...cheers...

[djpkins]

Stop right now....break it for parts and recoupe your cash mate...sounds like a wallet mugger.
If it's been tracked the ABS has probably been removed, to replace the clutch release bearing you gotta drop the engine on one side and remove the gearbox from underneath the car...a relatively big job unless you are a mechanic with a garage and facilities, check where the exhaust is blowing, it could have a cracked downpipe if it's one that doesn't have a support bracket to the block (mine has cracked twice)...but the biggest concern is the engine management light, check for error codes (wire from te1 to e1 in the diagnostics port and then turn on the ignition...not as far as to start it...then count how many times the engine light flashes).
If your car is knocking and setting off the sensor it could be real bad news.
For the money you will have to spend on this car just to bring it back up to rev 1 spec, you could buy a rev 3 tubby with a mild tune and handling package already on it.
Of course...if you're doing it as a project and your not fussed about lashing out the cash then good man...you will prob want to replace the headgasket with a stronger metal one while you are at this point of the refurb...and if after more than 300 bhp a set of forged pistons would be a good move. The rev 3 conversion is a popular choice and wouldn't break the bank...£500 ish for everything inc a ct20 and you could do it all yourself...but you will need to do the head gasket.

[swaggansway]

um........

there is no way in the world i will break this car...yes she has had it hard recent but i will put her back 2 her former glory. i am way to passionate to retire her! so...........questions questions...

i have complete spare exhaust from manifold, from a na...will this fit?

i will do the 'flash' test n post the result.

the engine is solid (i think so n so does my mechanic) but the thrust bearing is a concern but i don't see it as a major technicality! i have taken a engine out of a na 2 n back in in a day before. will do a compression check asap...

how can i tell if abs is removed.i have nvr played with abs before?

i believe the light comes on because the speedo is not working but i may (and usually am) wrong

maybe i should replace main and big end bearing as a precaution?

will my cylinder head off ma na fit?

how much is a 'rev 3 tubby with a mild tune and handling package already on it.'?

head gasket has already been replaced 4 a metal one about a year ago

forged pistons ...elaborate. am assuming this is a strengthening process through electrolysis?

The rev 3 conversion is a popular choice and wouldn't break the bank...£500 ish for everything inc a ct20???

thank u for caring to read my post, rest assured this car is getting no expense spared for what she deserves... time to give her back her former glory and pride

[djpkins]

http://www.biststone.com/coyote-mr2/how ... ogen3.html

This link will explain the rev 3 conversion process and a ct20 is the better turbo from rev 3 onwards. Your car produced 220 bhp from new and the rev 3 made 270 so it's a big power gain for very little money and effort.

This whole power modification and tuning scene is something you should research now for a few weeks before you decide where to go with it...all the info you could ever want is on this site and the members are really helpfull .
Your n/a parts wont fit a turbo model. Google mr2 diagnostic codes and then you will have the translations of what they mean and where to look for a fix...I have read posts sbout members whom have had multiple knock sensor failures so it may not be that your engine is actually woofed. I think when the ecu gets the signal from the knock sensor it limits performance over 3k rpm...error code 54 maybe.
Abs is for girls anyway man..lol.. it will have a unit in the frunk next to the brake master/slave cylinder with pipes and stuff going to it if it's still there but is often removed/disconnected when the car is tracked.
Forged pistons are stronger units and can handle a lot more bhp (about £500 per set), the weak spot on mr2 pistons is the ringlands...the metal inbetween the piston rings, they fail and break away when the boost is upped a lot, if you did the rev 3 conversion...excellent that the HG is already done...and stuck to 1 bar of boost you would have a quick car mate...if you then or later purchased a re-mappable ecu like an APEXi Power FC then you would have a 300bhp very very quick car...to get more reliable power over this...you will spend big bucks.
Be wary of second hand coilovers...they're often in need of a re build which is either expensive (£100 per corner plus) or impossible due to the manufacturer not refurbing older types.A standard set of yellow billies with lowering springs are a popular choice for those who don't want the harsh ride of coilovers. One of the best mods you can do is replace the anti roll bars and bushes with stiffer ones, whiteline for example, really improves the handling and cornering.
Locate your blowing exhaust, do you have a decat downpipe on it, whats the results of your flash test...then stick it up on here man.

[djpkins]

...and I think the speedo's on rev 1 are mechanical...so that could just be a snapped cable.

[DAN_REV1_TURBO]

Also if the speedo is broken the engine management light comes on after about 3k revs, I had that and once the speedo was working correctly again the orange engine light stopped coming on.

[swaggansway]

wow, you ppl are so helpfull.

i am starting work tom and i will keep u posted

its freezin here in essex so aint looking forward to it!!

wish me luck i need it

oh i just noticed ma ofside front fog light is smashed up, guessing there might be one on here somewhere
can i get those yellow bulbs in uk tho and are they legal

[swaggansway]

i have done the diagnostic check and the light just kept flashing... i hope this means there are no errors stored and that the engine is sound.
therefore the light could be coming on because the speedo is failing???

i was trying to test the cooling system but the needle never got over half way... i waited a good ten mins and revved her a bit to speed things along a little but the needle still didnt go up... guessing i just found another problem

[psummers]

Constant flash means the there is no stored error in the ECU.

My temperature gauge rarely, if ever, goes over halfway. I just assumed this was normal

[swaggansway]

good, no probs withe engine then we surmise...


i remember my old na rarely got above halfway to but the fan did kick in........ the fan that directs air to the engine bay isnt cutting in either................i think i may have bitten off more than i can chew on this one

[djpkins]

it has to get pretty warm for the IC fan to kick in though mate....check the fuse/relay, the wire could've melted if it's touched the downpipe.
Where is the exhaust blowing? Did you do a compression test? Have you a list of all the after market mods that have been done to it...you said it's been tracked.

[swaggansway]

i think the fans are not kicking in caws i had a little accident involving a combination of ice,no brakes and a kerb. it was a really slow impact but enough to take out my fog lite and cross member.. the os fan wont even turn in its housing anymore! the first mechanic who looked at it (before my little episode) told me the fan was kicking in and out. so i guess i must have bu88ered it up. as a result the small pipe on my thermostat has split and is obviously leaking
the exhaust is blowing at the last flange after the cat.
i cant compression test her because my tool has decided to 'give up the ghost' but will get the boys at Sheppard racing(colchester) to do for me.

it has been tracked in the sense that all the wheel alignments are well out camber and toe (i thought this was what tracked meant)

the only mods i can see is a big bore exhaust!

how can i become a premium member pls as i would like to post photos!
when i try it says something about pay pal work in progress please don't try and do anything on this page

[swaggansway]

I have sacked off my first choice of mechanic and i will name and shame the company because he tried to rip me off (drapers colchester) 92 quid to fit a rocker cover gasket, 100 to fix steering rack gaiters, 550 to replace all disks and pads (disks are fine) no no no thank u
obviously i got a second opinion and when the guy at Sheppard racing saw the quote, his jaw hit the floor!!!! he actually showed me that most of the jobs didn't need doing at all!
so this is my new plan of action:

1)sort leek at thermostat housing and ensure all cooling fans kick in at there appropriate temperature

2) seat belts (after market) any ideas where i can get quality reasonably priced ones as mine are not locking?

3)Get front cross member welded up and pop a foggie back in. can i get those yellow bulbs in England or am i better off with white ones? a lot of the splash shielding is a chewed up but i guess i don't really need this anyway?


4) new pads all round and maybe drilled and grooved disks if they don't cost a fortune. (will my calipers push in or are they the twist in type?)

4) rocker cover gasket then steam clean the block/bay

5)speedo cable (guessing this is why my abs is not working also... the computer does check and pass it every time but obviously it is not working at all)

6)clutch release bearing (i hope this holds on long enough)

7)aux drive belt

8)exhaust blow

9)Re access wheel bearing, anti roll bar rubbers, steering rack gaiters, o/s/r shock absorber (prob get coil overs anyway).... sheepards don't seem to think any of these need immediate action!

10)upgrade tubby to rev3 etc install decent sound system, new wheels and alloys and all the other fun bits

[Race Idiot]

might as well get some rev2/3 calipers and discs instead of the tiny rev1 ones

usually some going in the for sale section.....

[alanmr2turbo]

I would also upgrade to the rev2 brakes and discs.

In your 1st post you say the steering gairors are split then in the last post you say a guy checked them and dont need replacing?

If they are split they need replacing as you dont want dirt, grit, water etc getting into the rack. If they are split and he says they don't need replacing immediately take your car to another garage and steer clear of him doing any other work on your car.

[swaggansway]

good point and sound advice , thanx mate

[swaggansway]

my front cross member is broken os! should i source and replace this or is welding a easier option?

also my front breaks are binding check valve in master or calipers and sliders first?

dave.......any idea when u gonna brave the weather and Head my way?

i dont blame ya holding fire as ya have toyo r888......road legal slicks i believe? last thing we want is 2 tubbys needing front bumper relating parts to fix lol

[djpkins]

lol...when the roads are clear man...when you say "front cross member" do you mean the metal bumper thing behind the nose cone?...I have an intact shell thats not been damaged and may have the bit you need.

[swaggansway]

sounds good..but how much effort will it be to strip the front end and bolt it on apposed to getting it welded!

guess i should get a third opinion on Monday!

engine bay having a steam clean on mon! the garage nxt door does welding! will get a quote and re-assess

how hard is it 2 strip my front end n reassemble anyway?? considering most bolts r original n i bet they nvr used anti cease compound(zink grease)

[djpkins]

good point...I'm not exactly sure what you need to weld...be carefull of the radiators...looks like the weathet is improving, so all being well I should be over your way Monday ...midday if you're about .