Unichip + boost module

[jamief]

Ive picked up a second hand Unichip and I phoned Dastek to get a quote to get it mapped. I explained I had an EBC already so I didn't need the boost module, but the guy started blethering saying I needed the unichip boost module, which I don't think I do as ive got an HKS EBC running perfectly.

Can anyone clarify whether I need it or not?

Cheers!

[ChrisActon]

99.9% sure you don't need it mate. From what I have heard the Unichip EBC is not the best anyway because it doesn't cope well with ambient temp changes to well.

Sure others can confirm this, if not you could always try Headly at Millway, sure he would give you an honest anwser. I have a Unichip but no ECB at all at the moment.

Cheers, Chris

[GeoffC320]

No probs with mine in 2 1/2 yrs/20k miles. Set at 1.2 bar, lovely torque curve. It's all in the mapping IMO.

[ChrisActon]

It's all in the mapping IMO.

I agree Geoff, sure I remember reading something about the UniChip EBC and ambient temps on here somewhere though.

I am not touching the boost this time round on mine car until I have improved the cooling, don't want to be replacing my engine again just yet!!.

[jamief]

Bump.

Can someone confirm whether I need the boost module with my unichip despite me having an EBC already setup and the t-vsv disconnected?

Cheers

[MR2Mania]

Ive picked up a second hand Unichip and I phoned Dastek to get a quote to get it mapped. I explained I had an EBC already so I didn't need the boost module, but the guy started blethering saying I needed the unichip boost module, which I don't think I do as ive got an HKS EBC running perfectly.

Can anyone clarify whether I need it or not?

Cheers!

Did they ask if you have an FCD? Maybe this is why they said you need the "boost module"?

[jamief]

No they didn't ask, but I do have an FCD. Surely FCD + EBC means that I don't need it? I hope so anyway!

[MR2Mania]

No they didn't ask, but I do have an FCD. Surely FCD + EBC means that I don't need it? I hope so anyway!

Yeah, if you've got an EBC AND FCD, then in theory you don't need it, ALTHOUGH, another thing I just thought about...

Basically, you can get 2 types of "boost module", one with internal MAP sensor, the other without MAP sensor.

Now, what could be the situation is that to get better mapping done, they want to use a module WITH the MAP sensor, so that even though they clamp the standard MAP sensor signal to keep the stock ECU happy at higher boost levels, they may want to use the module's MAP sensor to still measure load so that they can accurately map higher than Fuel Cut boost levels, which is a good thing, and not many Unichip dealers do this (in fact, out of all the MR2 tuners, it would seem that Nobles were the only ones that used to do this).

Ring Dastek up, and get them to confirm this. If this is the case, then you can't really argue with that!

[matt_mr2t]

Jamie - it is indeed to do with the mapping. IE the boost module makes it much more tunable from their point of view.
I had mine done at Millway. They quoted me with and without it. It def DOESN'T control boost in any way. (If it does it does it magically as there's no buttons etc)

I think Hedly (guy with the funny hat) mapped it. I spoke to the other dude (skinny with dark hair) and he suggested it's worth while having. Alot of people get them fitted after they uni-chip and get better results.

[MR2Mania]

Jamie, I just spoke with Gerry @ Dastek to get the low down, and it seems I was right about why they recommend that you have the boost module with internal MAP sensor.

Basically, it's so that they can finely tune load sites that are above the Fuel Cut point, so if you run more than 12psi on a Rev1/2, or more than 17psi on a Rev3, it's better to have one of these.

Incidentally, the "boost modules" are essentially a "driver" to control devices. For each device that needs a high enough signal to be driven, you need a boost module. So, if you wanted to control boost and WI, then you'd need 2 of them. Only the one would have to have the internal MAP sensor though.

HTH.

[jamief]

Jamie, I just spoke with Gerry @ Dastek to get the low down, and it seems I was right about why they recommend that you have the boost module with internal MAP sensor.

Basically, it's so that they can finely tune load sites that are above the Fuel Cut point, so if you run more than 12psi on a Rev1/2, or more than 17psi on a Rev3, it's better to have one of these.

Incidentally, the "boost modules" are essentially a "driver" to control devices. For each device that needs a high enough signal to be driven, you need a boost module. So, if you wanted to control boost and WI, then you'd need 2 of them. Only the one would have to have the internal MAP sensor though.

HTH.

Excellent! Thats exactly what I needed to know - obviously Gerry is more informed than the guy I spoke to, who when queried why I needed the boost module said "Errrr...ahhh....you need it to make sure the unichip works on your car"! Thanks for all the replies everyone, very helpful.