ANOTHER UPDATE. Car starts with out pump connected

[Ad Mayo]

Got my engine put back in today and it didn't start. There isn't any fuel at the fuel rail tried starting it with the fuel feed off the rail and there is nothing, bone dry could this be the fuel pump gone? or if anyone can think of anything else.

[cartledge_uk]

To test, bridge FP & B+ in the diagnostics port, you should hear the pump running and the pump should flow.

[Ad Mayo]

Tried that and nothing, tried my multimeter on the guage sender on top of the tank under the centre console the guage was reading fine but the wires had nothing on them so I put a direct live from the battery to it and hey presto the pump is working and fuel is at the rail, now I have to find if it's a relay or some other electrical problem.

If it came to it can I just run a live from my battery with a switch on it to the pump.

[cartledge_uk]

Tried that and nothing, tried my multimeter on the guage sender on top of the tank under the centre console the guage was reading fine but the wires had nothing on them so I put a direct live from the battery to it and hey presto the pump is working and fuel is at the rail, now I have to find if it's a relay or some other electrical problem.

If it came to it can I just run a live from my battery with a switch on it to the pump.

You could do, but that I personally wouldn't wantthe fuel control on a switch, maybe into the ignition?

Send paul woodds a pm, he can probly solve the problem in 2min.

[jimi]

If the fuel pump doesn't run when you link FP & B+ on the service connector, then look at connector N1 it's a big connector in the boot near the ECU, check that it's made up correctly and none of the pins are pushed back.
FP goes directly to the fuel pump via connector N1, if you took the engine out complete with the harness, then this is the one you would split to do it. Your looking for a Light Blue wire for the fuel pump feed.
HTH
Jimi

[Ad Mayo]

Yeah I had the loom out so I will check that in the morning cheers.

[PW@Woodsport]

Spot on jimi I was just about to suggest the N1... they get corroded pins in there too,the boot gets wet in the plug area.

Id also carry out a continuity test between the blue wire on the N1 and the fuel pump wire at the centre console.Also if you look at the N1 from the rear of the car it has a left and a right side.If you get someone to crank the engine while checking for power on the right side of the plug (blue wire and plug not pulled apart),and it has power there,then its the N1 to blame or a wire break between the N1 and the pump.

If there is no power on the right side of the N1 then you have a COR issue (circuit opening relay).This is located on the side of the ecu,a black relay with 5 pins on it.

To test the COR,unplug it,and check there is power on one of the terminals with ignition switched on,if there is make a note of this wire,you will need it in a minute.

If there is no power on any COR pin with ignition on check your fuses havent blown in the engine bay fusebox.

Once you have established there is power at the COR try bridging this pin with the blue wire on the same plug,if the pump starts running with the ignition on then the N1 is fine.

Now establish the COR is earthed,its a white/black wire.... do a continuity test to the chassis.

Next, one of the COR terminals is a starter feed,this energizes the COR during cranking... so test that one pin becomes live when the engine is cranked.If it doesn't then you have a wire break between the COR and starter solenoid wire.

If that checks out and everything else seems in order the final wire to check is the Green/red on the COR,the ECU grounds this to keep the COR closed during running (and keeps power at the pump).... try permenantly grounding the green/red (with the COR plugged back in) and if that works then the G/R wire is broken between COR and ECU ,OR the ECU is faulty and is not earthing the COR.

Finally if all of the above checks out and every wire going to the COR is doing its job ,and the N1 is ok,and there is continuity between N1 and pump,and the pump earth wire itself is ok (B/W) then you have a faulty COR.

Thats as much info as i can give on the subject,hope it helps.

[Ad Mayo]

Right I found that I hadn't even plugged in the n1 plug, anyway still doesn't start I've got a spark it's all timed fine and theres fuel but it is still not starting there does seem to be to much fuel but that is all I can think.
I have the orange dash light on which I bridged the plugs in the diag plug how it says in the haynes book but I'm only getting one flash which means theres nothing up how about that then any help will be appreciated.

[jimi]

The codes in the haynes book are incorrect for a UK car. Correct codes and info here CLICKY Try clearing the error codes to see if the management light goes out.

[Ad Mayo]

Cheers for that still one flash means nothing wrong, haven't had the car started yet to find if the light goes out.

Still have the problem of it not starting either, it's getting frustrating now as I need the car back on the road so I can sell it.

[PW@Woodsport]

Did you follow the tests i gave you ? Is the engine getting fuel now?

[Mk1Chris]

Blocked injectors? I had this. Does the car even attempt to start, or does it just keep turning over?

[Ad Mayo]

Yeah it turns over and there is plenty of fuel because I can see it in the bores and there is a spark but it won't start, every time I try and start it it just floods.

[Mav122]

Does it flood straight away or because the engine has been cranked a few times to try and start it?

[Ad Mayo]

Yeah I would say it floods coz I'm cranking it to much. But even if I crank it once it won't start. I've left the plugs out to let it dry out for a few days then try start it and still not running.

[PW@Woodsport]

Bring it to me,i will have it running in 5 minutes and i will do it for free for you.

[Ad Mayo]

I will see mate it's just getting it transported I will keep scratching my head and if I can't for the life of me do it I will arrange to bring it up to you I will let you know.

Could it be the starter motor thats at fault just wondering.

[kaiowas]

Sounds very similar to what I've been through with my SC conversion lately, after much head scratching I was recommended to check the earths (particularly the one to the thermostat housing)

5 minutes with a wire brush on the terminal and all was well (ok I lie it wasn't as I had other issues but it started which was definite progress!)

[Ad Mayo]

Been messing again today I left the car over night with the plugs out to let the bit of fuel dry out anyway got it started and ran for about 3 seconds and cut out sounded like it was only running on about 2 or 3 cylinders aswell after that it would not even try and nearly start, back to the drawing board.

[crazybrightman]

mr2's are only shim adjustment on the valve clearance right?
if not and they are hydraulic then its very common if an engine has been standing or the head updide down for the buckets to take ages to pump up so you dont get any air in the engine and it wont start until then.

at the end of the day if you go back to basics you only need fuel, spark, air and mechanical integrity for it to start. they key if you have all off these is to make sure they are all happening at the right time.
it could be something stupid like the plug leads are on the wrong way arond etc.