Car would not start, help please Video Inc.

[Jimbo_Jet]

Ok guys, I’m looking for some help and advice please on my engine which wouldn’t start this morning.

My car has been running without problem but this morning, it was freezing mind, the engine would turn over but would not fire up? I’ve never had a problem starting in freezing weather before but today it just would not have any of it. Upon turning the ignition the engine turns but it never catches, I tried pumping the accelerator pedal occasionally but after 20mins of this I had to give up and get a lift from someone else. An hour later I returned and tired again, still nothing. I unplugged all the spark leads and reconnected them but still nothing. So I went to get my camera to record what was happening and to share it with you for some advice. To my surprise, as I was filming. it started to fire up all be it like it was being throttled in the process. This must have been the 30th plus time of trying to start the car. Please have a look at the video below and let me know what you think?

http://media.putfile.com/Problems-Starting

My first attempt to start it in the video was like the previous 30 odd attempts, but the second attempt, as you can see it came to life. When it did start you can hear some loud hissing/sucking sound which I don’t think I’ve noticed before. Has anybody got any suggestions please?

What worries me is that my previous MK1b experience something similar one week before the big end blew in my engine due to oil starvation, if I remember correctly. Please correct me if I’m wrong, as I’m still learning, but these engines have oil pumps and I believe that is what failed on my last MK1b and eventually killed it. It’s probably completely unconnected to the problem with my new car now, but is there any way to tell that the oil pump is still working?
Thanks - James

[Lauren]

It's extremely unlikely to be the oil pump.

Most likely ignition problems like worn dizzy cap etc.

Couldn't watch the vid because its shitetime.

[Jimbo_Jet]

Thanks Lauren! I've just up loaded it again in AVI format so hopefully you can view that?

http://media.putfile.com/AVI-Problems-Starting

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

[Mav122]

Is your cold start injector working? There is a fifth injector in the inlet manifold. Just trace the fuel line from the rail to the inlet and there will also be a black plug on it. Take the injector out and place it in a milk bottle or something with the connector connected and crank the engine in cold weather. It should spray fuel. If not the cold start injector switch could be faulty, loom fault, or injector fault. prob just the switch, I had the same prob with a Mk2 I had for a while.

[Lauren]

Hard to tell from the vid, though I would have a look at the dizzy cap for tracking/wear and the rotor arm.

[un1eash]

I would also start with the dizzy and rotor. From my experience i doult its the cold start injector, mines been disconnected for months and it made zero difference.

[Mk1 Turbo Powered Steve]

I can't get either video but probably wouldn't have a clue anyway

[System-G]

That's going to be ignition. Dizzy Cap, Rotor, Plugs, Leads etc...

More likey to be condensation in the dissy cap / lead ends

[justarn]

got a similar prob, mine has started back firing through the intake, ignition timing! Changing my ignitor soon let you know how i get on! Check injectors not firing in electrical!

[System-G]

Check injectors not firing in electrical!

Sorry, but that just doesn't make sense

Any elaboration?

[Jimbo_Jet]

Just had the same problem again this morning but it wasn't freezing. Prob a few degrees above zero, but no more, so can probably rule out the freezing weather being the problem?

Exactly same thing as before, my car turned over fine but would just not catch on. After several normal, but unsuccessful, attempts to start it I just turned the ignition and held it on, constantly turning over, for a good 20 seconds. Just as I released the key in despair I heard a splutter which indicated the engine was trying to catch on. I then turned the ignition again and after a full 10 seconds of turning over it caught and spluttered in to life. Any further ideas?

It has been suggested to me on my PM messages that water/dampness in fuel could be a possible source of the problem? It’s Tesco 99 Super in there at the moment so I presume I can discount the fuel quality being poor? However Tesco did have a bad batch of standard fuel a year or so ago didn’t they? I’m going to run the tank down as low as I dare and then fill up again to see if that helps with either water in the system or poor fuel. Otherwise it’s a trip to the garage to check the spark leads, plugs, dizzy and cold start injector. Any other points I should be checking?

Thanks for the advice.

[System-G]

It's not going to be the fuel.

Check plugs, leads etc... for condition & condensation

[al-amin]

Hi, I once had the same problem but my car cut out whilst I was driving and would not start. The engine just wouldn't catch on. The AA dude fixed it on the spot for me as 1 of the leads of the coil came of. I reckon your coil and ignitor is at fault. Hope Iv'e been helpful?

[dopiaza]

Hi,

Sounds like classic damp/old component HT circuit problems.

Wait until it's as dark as possible, then get someone to crank the engine while you look closely at the dizzy cap and HT leads - on mine you could see a faint blue glow where the HT was tracking along the outside of the lead from the 'coil' to the distributor. If you're lucky you'll even hear a spark jumping about somewhere. Also, check for water in the spark plug wells once you've removed the leads - this tends to stick around as it's fairly well sealed so any moisture around there has nowhere to evaporate to. Freezing weather will not have a detrimental effect any more than cold/damp weather unless your battery is dodgy, but it sounds like it's cranking ok so unlikely to be a battery problem. In fact, a few degrees above zero is the worst as there's more likelihood of condensation on cold components.

If you're anywhere near Leeds, I have a known good spare set of HT leads you're welcome to try out if you like before spending any cash. However if you're not short of cash then a set of leads, plugs, dizzy cap and rotor arm will almost certainly solve it for once and for all.

HTH
Graham

[justarn]

sorry i have the same prob, got a thread going called injectors not firing, in the electrical section! Its not the injectors tho, If you solve it let me know, tryin to get a coil an igniter next, cheers justin. . .

[FossMan]

I have the same problem (I reckon)

The car starts in dry weather but as ssoon as there is moisture in the air then it just turns over forever and doesn't spark.

I will pop down to Toyota and try to buy the parts (dizzy cap, rotor arm should do it right?) but I know they are going to ask me for my bloody chassis number - which I don't have because the car is stranded at work.

What tools (if any) do I need to replace these parts? I don't want to get all the way to work only to find I need to come back again

[mister2mk1]

Not trying to be a smart ar$e but just for the record Injectors dont spark or ignite!! They purely inject fuel.

Sparkplugs spark, igniting the fuel. Sparks at the spark plugs come via the Ignition leads via the distributor from the Distributor Cap (dizzy cap) from the rotor arm which comes from the electric ignition formally known as the points and condenser!

Sorry for the detail!

[jimi]

Not trying to be a smart ar$e but just for the record Injectors dont spark or ignite!! They purely inject fuel.

Sparkplugs spark, igniting the fuel. Sparks at the spark plugs come via the Ignition leads via the distributor from the Distributor Cap (dizzy cap) from the rotor arm which comes from the electric ignition formally known as the points and condenser!

Sorry for the detail!

Not quite
The points and condensor have been replaced by 2 signal generators in the distributor, one of which sends a signal to the ECU, the other to the Ignitor.
The spark and spark advance/retard is then controlled by the ECU and Ignitor (which triggers the coil to provide the spark when asked).
On older cars the condensor was only there to stop arcing at the points which would burn them out quickly.
The points triggered the coil directly, providing the spark and the advance was normally controlled by a vacuum advance/retard
mechanism.
I don't think anyone was implying that the injectors sparked or ignited, by "firing" I'm sure they meant triggering ( as in opening to supply fuel)
HTH
Jimi

[mister2mk1]

Not quite [Wink]
The points and condensor have been replaced by 2 signal generators in the distributor, one of which sends a signal to the ECU, the other to the Ignitor.
The spark and spark advance/retard is then controlled by the ECU and Ignitor (which triggers the coil to provide the spark when asked).
On older cars the condensor was only there to stop arcing at the points which would burn them out quickly.
The points triggered the coil directly, providing the spark and the advance was normally controlled by a vacuum advance/retard
mechanism.
I don't think anyone was implying that the injectors sparked or ignited, by "firing" I'm sure they meant triggering ( as in opening to supply fuel)

Now theres a smart ar$e.

Sorry but people refering to injectors firing to me means spark!!!!!

[jimi]

Now theres a smart ar$e.

you started it

Sorry but people refering to injectors firing to me means spark!!!!!

Obviously doesn't mean that to them, or me for that matter
HTH
Jimi