[Mk2] [Turbo] 5K to get 400bhp + on a stock rev1?

[dellams]

Right guys, I have 5k to spend on trying to get my car to 400bhp+.

The first question really is how much difference does it really make going from a rev1/2 instead of a rev3 like I originally intented? Since ill be upratting the engine anyway and eventually want to uprate the suspension and brakes then there isnt really any other benefits a rev3 would give me?

Other than the MAP sensor instead of the AFM but that will be sorted when I get it chipped anyway. Also theres just the cosmetic differences such as the lights but ill be replacing them with some aftermarket ones eventually too.

Now thats out of the way here comes the fun bit, I need a list of mods you guys would recommend striking a good balance between value for money and performance along with rough costs of both parts and labour fitting (or maybe fit myself if its really easy and straight-forward).

This times its really happening since the money will be hitting my bank account in the next few days then the project will begin!

The mods I beleive I will need are:

Upratted engine: (bigger injectors plus other bits?) Sorry dont know much about this area.
Upratted turbo
Updatted intercooler
Induction Kit (I think Apexi is the best one here?)
Larger downpipe (ozzy?)
Decat straight-through exhaust such as mongoose
EBC - was probaly going to go with Apexi again
Chipping/Fuel Computer - LINQ, SAFC-2 or something else?
Updatted Clutch
Possibly an upratted fuel pump?
Anything else ive missed?


I would also hope I could have a little left over to do the brakes and suspension too. I already have a rev3 subframe at home so what else would you recommend in this area?

Drilled rev3 or possibly even better than rev3 discs?
New Coils/bushes all round
Strut brace - is this one for front and back?

Sorry, again dont know too much about this area so was hoping you guys could help me out and make some recommendations?

Any help and advice as always would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers.

[greeny]

I think you need to do some reaearch chap!

You'l struggle to get 400+ hp for 5k doing it the right way!

An ecu and mapping is going to cost anywhere from £1-2,000,

Turbo kit £1500?

Fueling mods £500?

Intercooler/chargecooler £200- £600?

Thats before you start on the engine internals,

and the other hundreds of bits that you dont think of!

[dellams]

What would you think ill get to with 5k then? What would you recommend?

Cheers.

[THE DUKE]

Sell yours and buy a rev3+

[scotiamr2t]

would depend how much work you were willing to cary out yourself. I reckon you could get there for 5k if you fitted all the parts.

Obviously you'd need to strip the engine for the forgies aswell an have the block machined for the new pistons.

[oBladeo]

Also you'll need new
pistons
Rods
Valves
duel springs
cams

And thats just to start!!! not even talking about the arp bolts, head gasket, so on...

[scotiamr2t]

Also you'll need new
pistons
Rods
Valves
duel springs
cams

And thats just to start!!! not even talking about the arp bolts, head gasket, so on...

you wont need the rods or valves from that list. Nice to have an would help yes but not needed to acheive 400bhp. The standard rods are fine for big power just heavier than the forged eagles, pauter etc.

Quick list IMO would be.
Fuel rail + injectors, Pump, FPR - £1300
ECU + mapping - £1000
Turbo Kit - £1600
Forgies fitted - £700
Gaskets etc - £300

an thats yer 5K gone! you'd need to do all the stripping down an rebuild of the block yourself to have an hope of acheiving it within your budget. Then there'll be the hidden costs along the way. Also the above list doesn't include cams which IMO you'll need

[oBladeo]

Also the above list doesn't include cams which IMO you'll need

And because it's a rev1 you'll need the springs^

[greeny]

Also the above list doesn't include cams which IMO you'll need

And because it's a rev1 you'll need the springs^

why?

[scotiamr2t]

i was going to ask the same thing. Why do you NEED springs on the rev 1 if you have cams?

[oBladeo]

i was going to ask the same thing. Why do you NEED springs on the rev 1 if you have cams?

Because the rev1 springs have been know to give problems with uprated cams. I think toyota changed them on the rev3 if i remember corectly :s

[dellams]

I was going to get a rev3 but since all the bits that make it better are going to be upratted further (suspension, brakes, engine, chipping/ecu) then I might as well stick with what I have since it has the looks I already like with the rarer darker red and bodykit. If I got a rev3 I would need to spend a good 2-3k getting it to look like mine by fitting the bodykit and having a full re-spray even before I could start on the performance mods.

Cheers.

[3sgte]

i was going to ask the same thing. Why do you NEED springs on the rev 1 if you have cams?

Because the rev1 springs have been know to give problems with uprated cams. I think toyota changed them on the rev3 if i remember corectly :s

they changed the shim over bucket arrangement to shim under bucket

iirc the rev1/2 shim over bucket setup tends to try and throw the shims off the top when revving over 8k rpm . uprated springs might help alleviate this problem but the best solution is either shim under bucket conversion from rev3 onwards or a shimless bucket arrangement from a 1zzfe roadster engine

[dellams]

Hmmmm, I better check with my garage again, they said they should easily be able to do it for that money, they said an engine rebuild would be around 1.5kish, both guessing thats the bottom end of the scale, most of their prices seemed to be about half of Rougues but then I guess you get what you pay for.

They are still a jap import specialist so better than a normal garage but not quite as sepcilised as rougue...

So how much you think im going to need then? Maybe a few more k so 8k?

Cheers.

[scotiamr2t]

If your paying someone to do all the work an just supplying the parts at least 8k. As parts alone if you go for cams an larger valves will come to 6k leaving 2 for labour.

Then you have to think about an up rated clutch/flywheel, ARP hardware, oil, G/box oil, coolant. Hoses etc that need replaced

[dellams]

What if I let them supply themselves? Going to be quite a bit more or not much?

Cheers.

[mattcambs]

most of their prices seemed to be about half of Rougues but then I guess you get what you pay for.

Nail on the head. Rogue may appear expensive, but they build MR2 engines day in, day out. They know EXACTLY what they are doing - down to the finest detail.

If you get a quote from them every single part and process will be itemised and priced. The price is not plucked from the air and the job will be as good as it gets.

If a company has quoted half the price as Rogue, I doubt they know exactly what they are doing. If they were a bit cheaper, then it would be less suspect.

I'd stick to using one of the IMOC affiliates for serious engine work

[mistertwo_2008_uk]

Personaly i would not put 5k into a rev1, i`d sell buy a rev3 atleast your starting with a better base block...

if you want longjevity (SP?) then use your money wisely and get a rev3.

JM3PW


Daz

[mattcambs]

Personaly i would not put 5k into a rev1, i`d sell buy a rev3 atleast your starting with a better base block...

if you want longjevity (SP?) then use your money wisely and get a rev3.

JM3PW


Daz

I suppose the power goal might be possible on a rev3 without the need for any headwork. Plus you've got the best brake and chassis setup.

Also, why 400 wbhp? That's close to 500bhp and an immense power output for a 2 litre. To get that sort of power reliably and with a chassis/brake setup to cope I would have thought t£10k was a conservative estimate?

Not meaning to put a downer on things Just trying to be realistic

[GeoffC320]

Personaly i would not put 5k into a rev1, i`d sell buy a rev3 atleast your starting with a better base block...

if you want longjevity (SP?) then use your money wisely and get a rev3.

JM3PW


Daz

I suppose the power goal might be possible on a rev3 without the need for any headwork. Plus you've got the best brake and chassis setup.

Also, why 400 wbhp? That's close to 500bhp and an immense power output for a 2 litre. To get that sort of power reliably and with a chassis/brake setup to cope I would have thought t£10k was a conservative estimate?

Not meaning to put a downer on things Just trying to be realistic

My first question would be...what's the most powerful MR2 you've driven (or been in)? Even my old Rev3 which was "only" 300bhp was insanely quick in the real world. I seriously doubt if I could have usefully used much more power than that on an everyday basis.

Of course if you're going drag-racing then the more power the better. Just think number-chasing is a bit pointless unless there's some competitive reason.

Not having a dig, just interested in the reasoning behind your aims.