[Mk2] [Turbo] Better air intake temp sensor and positioning.Results page 6.

[C35Rob]

Excuse the broken screen on my calipers:

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Image Replaced With URL For Quote [url]http://i354.photobucket.com/albums/r420/fomoashman333/AA%202%20of%204_zps1nthqhck.jpg[/URL]

If it was on show it could probably do with a polish up, but I'll leave that up to you!

Jim- pm me your address and I'll post it over, you can test it- if it works ok I'll make a few more (or tweak the design).

With the shoulder I'll do them for £7 posted- that covers the ali (and postage to get the ali to me), as well as paying for the new drill bit (assuming I do 4 in total)

Excellent work mate, looks really good, more elegant than my solution too

[jimGTS]

Excellent work mate, looks really good, more elegant than my solution too

more elegant sure, but gave me the idea to suggest a lip

[ashley]

The three that have been paid for have just gone out in the post now.

I would strongly recommend using a decent thread seal on both threads, but in particular the thread between the sensor and the adaptor to ensure it is airtight.

Any problems just let me know.

[SteveH]

Can we get this stickied?

A very effective mod it seems for very little work.

[C35Rob]

The three that have been paid for have just gone out in the post now.

I would strongly recommend using a decent thread seal on both threads, but in particular the thread between the sensor and the adaptor to ensure it is airtight.

Any problems just let me know.

agreed, I would use use red loctite thread lock on the adaptor to manifold thread, and PTFE tape on the sensor, that way you'll be able to unscrew and replace the sensor without backing the adaptor out of the manifold.

[jimGTS]

The three that have been paid for have just gone out in the post now.

I would strongly recommend using a decent thread seal on both threads, but in particular the thread between the sensor and the adaptor to ensure it is airtight.

Any problems just let me know.

agreed, I would use use red loctite thread lock on the adaptor to manifold thread, and PTFE tape on the sensor, that way you'll be able to unscrew and replace the sensor without backing the adaptor out of the manifold.

just a thought, arnt there similar arguments to do it the other way around??

that sensor is never getting used on anything else, so why not threadlock the adapter to the sensor, and just ptfe tape on the manifold, (or none) incase you ever need or want to go back to the oem sensor.

threadlock on the mani, that thing is never coming off again.

[ashley]

If it was me I would use a decent thread sealant on both, something like this:

http://www.loctite.co.uk/thread-sealing-9170.htm

If I was going to thread lock either it would be the adapter onto the sensor, but the priority to me is creating an air tight seal, not locking the threads

[ashley]

I've got one left if anyone else is interested?

[jimGTS]

Hi guys fitted this today.
I'm running a blitz ecu these days.

Is tough to know any real world differences on a stock type ecu but can only be positive.
I'm sure more accurate temps will keep the car running a little safer. Last time I used the car ambient temps were 10+c higher and near 2weeks ago, so hard to measure any butt dyno differences.

Certainly useful for a tuneable ecu that can read this sensor (power FC), to take advantage of the more responsive readings come tuning time.

[Martin F]

I Got one from Peter Gidden - SBITS, Decided better to buy new and Peter had contacted me before this thread progressed, anyway, got it delivered promptly and a brand new item so very happy.





Was very simple to fit, readings are a little higher than the stock was in similar conditions but they can go from 40 degrees to 44 degrees over a matter of seconds and then back down again etc. etc. so a lot more responsive than stock.
I did however expect temps to go a lot higher under hard acceleration but they only go up a few degrees, radtec must me doing it's job then...

All in all a very cheap mod, does exactly as it says on the packet , so for me, money well spent

[ashley]

I've still got one ali adapter sat on the shelf if anyone wants one

[Martin F]

I've still got one ali adapter sat on the shelf if anyone wants one

I would have snapped this up ash, i had already agreed to buy from Peter when your original post came up though, only reason i didn't

[ashley]

No problemo

[Martin F]

I am finding the stock location to be in a very badly designed place. Just by turning my engine off for 10 minutes then restarting it jumps up by 10 degrees, I presume this is due to the sensors location rather than mega heat soak from the chargecooler sat doing nothing.

Would it be a good idea to relocate this sensor to a position near the chargecooler outlet to get a more accurate temperature reading ?
Or did Toyota put it in the inlet manifold for a reason....

I have an old aluminum hot pipe I can cut up and find somebody to thread it for me before welding it into a better placed aluminum pipe closer to the chargecooler core....

Yeah or nae ???

[C35Rob]

how long does it take to get back down to a reasonable temp once you're moving?

If it were me, I'd have it mounted after the chargecooler and just before the throttle body, which will eliminate as much heat soak as poss


it seems what you need is available off the shelf

https://www.viperperformance.co.uk/prod ... scId=10141

3" alloy pipe with a m10x1.25 boss welded into it, for £18 it's not worth messing around making it yourself!

[jimGTS]

bare in mind, this sensor is called a MAT sensor

a manifold air temperature sensor.

I'm sure theres a very good reason why toyota installed it where they did, as thats the temperature entering the ENGINE.

not the temp inside an intercooler pipe.


if the car is stood still, it will heatsoak, there is nothing you can do about this and you want this to read correctly.

[C35Rob]

bare in mind, this sensor is called a MAT sensor

a manifold air temperature sensor.

I'm sure theres a very good reason why toyota installed it where they did, as thats the temperature entering the ENGINE.

not the temp inside an intercooler pipe.


if the car is stood still, it will heatsoak, there is nothing you can do about this and you want this to read correctly.

I imagine it's probably just to do with ease of packaging, it's cheaper to thread a manifold in the factory than it is to produce an intake pipe with a threaded boss.
You're right it's a MAT sensor, but all it wants is the temp of the inlet air, as you said. It doesn't want the temperature of the manifold which is just a big heat sink when stood still. I'm pretty confident that the actual temperature of the air in the manifold doesn't change much from just before the throttle body to inside the manifold it's self due to the smooth-ish surface inside the manifold not being a great heat exchanger and the volume of air moving through it. I think Martin is right in wanting it in the air flow instead of heat soaking in the manifold as it'll give a truer reflection of the real temp of the charge air.

[Martin F]

bare in mind, this sensor is called a MAT sensor

a manifold air temperature sensor.

I'm sure theres a very good reason why toyota installed it where they did, as thats the temperature entering the ENGINE.

not the temp inside an intercooler pipe.


if the car is stood still, it will heatsoak, there is nothing you can do about this and you want this to read correctly.

Is it not called a Mat sensor simply because that is where it is, in the real world it is designed as an air intake temperature sensor.
Every time I have had cars mapped in the past they have taken readings from before the throttle body, also the standard Toyota sensor is so slow to respond I wonder how important it actually is in the running of the engine because of the time it takes to respond.
It must heatsoak from the heat of the engine, heat from open valves etc. so I would like a true reading.

I am just wanting a true air temperature reading, for all the wrong reasons so I guess it's not that important, just an idea that popped in my head and I thought it best to ask before I did the deed...

[Martin F]

how long does it take to get back down to a reasonable temp once you're moving?

If it were me, I'd have it mounted after the chargecooler and just before the throttle body, which will eliminate as much heat soak as poss


it seems what you need is available off the shelf

https://www.viperperformance.co.uk/prod ... scId=10141

3" alloy pipe with a m10x1.25 boss welded into it, for £18 it's not worth messing around making it yourself!

Thanks for the link, I have already cut a bit of aluminum and was just looking at what size of thread I needed to bore the hole/thread.
Then quickly weld it in place, job half done

If I am driving around town then it seems to take quite a while to go back down, if I am driving without stopping it stays where it is and if I get up to 70 mph it drops in a few minutes and then another 5 degrees a few minutes later

[simpson_eh]

I've still got one ali adapter sat on the shelf if anyone wants one

Not to late to nab this is it ...?