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Also, not sure if it's been noted but make sure you use steel rivnuts into the bodywork, not aluminium.
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Rob85 wrote:Instead of messing about making new liners(which will probably catch the wheels anywa) you could remove them and give the inner wings a good coat of stone chip
(UPOL gravitex is good, and can be tinted to body colour and/or over painted) that's what I'd do anyway.
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Also, not sure if it's been noted but make sure you use steel rivnuts into the bodywork, not aluminium.
Rob85 wrote:Also, not sure if it's been noted but make sure you use steel rivnuts into the bodywork, not aluminium.
synXero wrote:Rob85 wrote:Also, not sure if it's been noted but make sure you use steel rivnuts into the bodywork, not aluminium.
Really good point and one you'd not want to realise you'd done wrong after!
Excited to see how this goes(and hopefully the car once it's all done)
synXero wrote:Awesome, it turned up quickly.
I'm so skeptical about spacers that size, i'd sooner not run them at all and just put up with the wheels being inboard until you've got the reddies.The spacers will be
£100+ if they're actually safe, and they won't be that easy a sell afterwards
(maybe Driftworks though).
Your call though obviously.
sheppy wrote:i'll get my 6 foot tightening(or slackening) bar on them
Nic wrote:sheppy wrote:i'll get my 6 foot tightening(or slackening) bar on them
Don't over tighten them as that could lead to broken studs, torque them to the manufacturers spec and use thread lock.
Nic wrote:sheppy wrote:i'll get my 6 foot tightening(or slackening) bar on them
Don't over tighten them as that could lead to broken studs, torque them to the manufacturers spec and use thread lock.
Magic Beans wrote:Weird, I did reply last night.Well, I've replied to something anyway
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I've reached
that
age
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I had 0 issues holding mine on.Just make sure you get the threaded fixings properly mounted in the bodywork and the bolts holding the arches in will do the rest.