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screech205 wrote:Right i've just had a similar problem with my MBC, it was set that high that it was trying to boost at 20psi but it was causing det so wouldn't go above 10 psi.
So if you're having problems with your EBC, maybe try unplugging it and putting a MBC on just to see what happens.
HTH
They told me that anything over 5000rpm was giving so much det it could wreck the engine! :O Then you could get an inline fuel pressure gauge to see if the pressure is correct going into the engine. Also change your O2 and knock sensors.. if you dont want to buy new phone these guys for second hand parts (good and tested working parts).- 01579-383879. He's got a huge shed full of parts.. From MK1 superchargers to Supra engines and I'm going to fit the sensors (with a local forum members help) next week and the week after I'll get the pump fitted. Hopefully one of those will sort it but I doubt it knowning my recent spell of luck. ](./images/smilies/eusa_wall.gif "Brick wall"){kind=small}
So much for "the luck of the Irish..." But not to worry. I'll get it all sorted eventually (around 4Kish) and then it pulled really strongly. The car immediately slowed down (almost thrown forward!) and then pulled really strongly.- it hesitates and then picks up. we saw tonight was still hugely less powerful than it should be. I also should add that tonight was what I'd call a "good night" as most of the time I don't get any real power at all. It's intermittant. The ecu is detecting knock and then is throwing in loads of fuel and retarding the timing. Take the ebc off and go back to stock and check again. Try a simple mbc and gradually increase the boost to around 1bar / 14-15psi. 
You haven't seemed to have to much luck at all - but easy on the slating mate. - I did not rip you off and I resent you even suggesting it. Not too pleased with you saying that mate - and I understand you are upset about other bits and pieces, but I was genuienly shocked to hear about it all when you told me.http://mr2.noegruts.com/engine/engine.htm (/pinks) and this is being detected by the engine knock sensor. In order to protect the engine the ECU retards the timing until no more knocking is detected. If the ECU is still detecting knocking at this point, it may go one step further and close the turbo VSV, to limit the boost to a lower, safer, value. This is probably caused as in Japan Unleaded fuel is either 98 or 100 octane. VSV = Vacuum Switching Valve. This is the unit that will limit your boost in certain conditions. Under normal situations the boost pressure from your turbo is bled away from the wastegate (boost control device) causing a higher boost pressure of about 8 psi. Under conditions such as cold weather or some other situation where full boost should not be attained, the VSV closes. This forces all the boost pressure to the wastegate. This will make the wastegate open earlier and cause you to run about 5 psi until conditions improve. This device should be disabled when used with an electronic boost controller. The pipe on the other side of the actuator has a pipe joined to it which is blocked off. The rubber pipe which would go on there is blocked off too, presumably it goes to the VSV?Dave Couzens wrote:Reuben,
Sorry to see you having so much trouble with this.
The whole wadge of receipts you got with my old car and not to mention the fact that no expense was spared in the running of it had no reflection on what happened.
I had no idea
However, I did buy a lemon, whether you knew about it or not. I'm sure it's just my own misfortune and I apologise for saying that you ripped me off as you may not have done so. the car's gone now and the new owner seems to be enjoying it and it's new engine Much appreciated dude! I'm gradually narrowing it down so hopefully it's only a matter of time until I find this elusive problem.I was just surprised that the engine failed so soon after I bought it off you, considering it wasn't on the cheap end of the price range having the mileage that it did and so I expected a well sorted car.
I'm not saying you intentionally sold me a lemon.
I imagine if you paid a high price for a minter and it cost you a grand and a half in repair bills shortly after you'd be a bit annoyed too.
- I bought my turbo and a few months later the turbo itself died - it was new the year before (so I figured would give me no problems at all). Not my fault, not the fault of my mate that I bought the car from. That cost me the best part of a grand straight away - so I know what you mean. I was sad to see her go. Surely you would appreciate if i wanted to scam someone then I wouldn't pick someone of here would I? It had been spot on for nearly 3 years before I sold it so never expected a problem.Dave Couzens wrote:I was just surprised that the engine failed so soon after I bought it off you, considering it wasn't on the cheap end of the price range having the mileage that it did and so I expected a well sorted car.
I'm not saying you intentionally sold me a lemon.
I imagine if you paid a high price for a minter and it cost you a grand and a half in repair bills shortly after you'd be a bit annoyed too.
Anyhow, best of luck getting this problem of yours sorted.
It made no difference at all. The turbo starts to spool up, then bang, I get lunged forward in my seat and then boost starts to pick up ever so slowly again. And at this point the engine warning light comes on."lean error" and " knock error" 
... So, I don't think the avcr is causing the problem.'shot in the dark' but I don't suppose this could be a knackered battery/alternator? I haven't read back through the thread again but when I first test drove my car it would run fine until I started to boost - it would then display these symptoms (severe hesitation and engine warning light). Unlikely I think from what I remember of your problem but another possible factor in the equation maybe?