Lauren's 4AGE build by Tom (Icunonsove)

[SuperRedMR2]

If its running fine I wouldn't touch it.

Did you use a dremel to clean the crud off of the block Lauren?

[Lauren]

Did you use a dremel to clean the crud off of the block Lauren?

I'm not touching it. Tom is doing it Alex.

Mark said that Tom used a dremel with a wire brush.

[SuperRedMR2]

I know you're not doing it, but you know I what I meant.

Worked to a good effect, i'll do that on mine

Do you think a red block would look too chavvy?

[Lauren]

Red wont look great IMO. Black for me.

Tom has been doing work on the head today and reckon it's had some work around the valve seat angles. He's going to lightly polish the inlet as well.

[chrismanchr]

I think black ,dark grey or alu silver look good but matching colours with the body can look chavvy lol

[Lauren]

Some more progress!

Tom's words and pictures.




Block face dressing with 1200 grit paper and a ground flat plate to remove any high spots.



Blasting all the loose corrosion from the water galleries.




Cleaning the crankshaft main bearing to big end galleries with very hot water based degreasant. Immediately rinsed off with near boiling water



and each gallery blown out and dried immediately



and each gallery sprayed with WD40, as is the entire machined areas of the crankshaft.



Wrapped up to make sure I don't have to do it again. It will only be unwrapped once the block is completely finished and ready to accept it.




Oil pump components. Check relief valve seat and check relief valve piston and bore.




New viton seal. You can use the old one and a socket to aid fitting squarely.




If ok on visual inspection, check the outer rotor to housing clearance, outer rotor to crescent clearance, inner rotor to crescent clearance, backlash and endfloat.




Don't forget to put plenty of oil in on assembly to aid priming.




Reassembled oil pump. Keep it clean!




Pistons and conrods with very worn big end bearings. This engine was just caught in time.




Cleaning with very hot water based degreaser. Must be washed off with hot water, quickly blown out and dried and all the steel bits sprayed with WD40 or somesuch.




Big end bearing outer diameter must be perfectly clean. Wet 1200 grit paper will remove stubborn marks.




Piston ring grooves must be thoroughly cleaned.




New viton crank seal. There is tolerance to position this away from the original seal line on the crank if it is badly worn.



Nice big table to lay everything out easily.




Exhaust valve removed for inspection. The seat needs attention...




After a bit of hand lapping it will become evident whether it will be possible to clean up by hand or needs a recut. I can tell that these will clean up by hand, there's nothing too deep.




Make sure you make a cushioned handle for the valve lapping stick or else you will get blisters.




Just 15 valves to go......




Valve guide bores need checking. Don't have a 6mm bore gauge so need to make some go/ no go gauges.




This hard glass fibre rod has an original diameter of 6.12mm and therefore only requires 5 thou removing to get to the nominal 6mm bore.










6.01mm and 6.03mm bore go / no go gauges. Shank diameter has been relieved to 5.90mm

[LimeyMk1]

Looking good.

I have a valve lapping attachment for a drill if Tom hasn't already finished them.

[stenky]

how are you going to break this engine in? i have read some really interesting article about engine brak in methods and some controversial stuff, ie. drive it like you stole it for the first couple of kilometers

[Lauren]

I'm unlikely to be driving it, so it won't be run in until I decide when I want to put it on the road.

I will start it up, check it runs, but that's likely about it.

[toxo]

Some more progress!

Tom's words and pictures.

Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-a ... 3420_n.jpg


Just 15 valves to go......

Only 15!

Good thread

[PW@Woodsport]

It will be interesting to find out what's been happening on number 4 cylinder fuelling wise, it has taken out two engines, there appears to be no suspected heat problem at the rear of the engine because you'd see a gradual discolouring from rear to front. Number 4 is definitely fuelling totally differently to the rest as the discolouring ends purely on that cylinder.

I'm sure Tom will find the reason, my money would be on a faulty injector.

[chrismanchr]

paul are injectors a common problem on the 4age?

as I'm thinking of taking mine off and renewing the 26 year old seals but while I'm at it ,maybe I should send them off for testing and cleaning

[chrismanchr]

great thread by the way again ,tell tom to keep up the good work and keep taking pics as he goes along so we can all do the same with our own 4age's

[Lauren]

Tom is apparently going to rig something up to test them. We have a spare set of injectors from the other engine. Which will likely be going in.

Chris, you can get new seals easily enough from MrT. I replaced mine last time I had it apart.

[boondougal]

yep i second the seal replacement... Mr T no problems.

I tested each of my injectors, mainly just to clean them through though, did a bit of a write up in my build thread.

I think they could quite easily get gunked up and impede flow.

[Lauren]

Fuel has amazing cleaning properties though, so I would never expect anything approaching gunk to get in there really unless someone has been careless and allowed some dirt to get in the fuel line when it had been apart.

I'm not saying it's not possible, but I guess things can 'wear' out. Faulty injectors can happen, but they are generally reliable, ie you don't often find injector faults that cause a problem.

[PW@Woodsport]

Let's not forget fuel also has amazing conjealing properties, especially in old cars that may have been off road for extended periods of time during their life, it turns to a wallpaper paste gunk (resembling petroleum jelly in fact) in severe cases, so it's entirely possible an injector is partially blocked.

I've seen dozens of 4a-ge injectors block over the years, it's very common.

Lauren i would also check the current ECU/wiring is delivering the correct signal to number 4, could possibly be a resistor pack issue (if yours has one?) , just a few things to check.

[Lauren]

Yep, cheers, though that'll have to wait till when it's back in agan.

[chrismanchr]

I know fuel can leave a varnish type layer from taking carbs apart on motorbikes

[Icsunonove]

Well I ended up making an air powered test rig and one of the injectors is faulty. So that's good news, problem found

If it's of any interest to others:

Test rig build part 1: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 490b1e1848

Test rig build part 2: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 0906a3aaee

Test rig in use: http://youtu.be/h07cm9ls-eU