H4 HID Kit Interest?

[Andy.B]

haha didnt think of looking under there.

[Babboon]

Got mine, just waiting for the raybrigs and time at 3s to get a few toys fitted

[Leon.]

Got mine too

Thanks Speedy for sorting it, I know it was more hassle than you expected but great job

took a while to figure out the wiring, looking at it i assume the big long wire with the relay is optional to use and you can instead choose to use the H4's on each side to send the feed back to each ballast?

from the looks of things you need to pull out one of the H4's to see that heavy duty cable and then your not going to be able to use high beam on that side as the multiplug is in use?

Are you sure about the first point? Do you not need the relay to switch between dipped and main? I have no idea btw

Dipped and main are in the same bulb right, and both ballasts run off the main lead so its fine isn't it if you just connect one multiplug?

Andy if you lift up the moulding that holds all the parts in place there is 2 cages under there.

also the ballast is covered in double sided tape thats how i'm going to go about it

Also looking at the wiring does the HID dip turn off when the full beam main comes on? it looks like it to me, i'm not sure though

Good thinking to look underneath it

Not double sided tape dude, that's to protect the mirror finish underneath - pull it back, ahem.

I think you are right about your last point since they are not bi-xenons...

[Kenny-Boost]

so you think one of the other wires moves the beam?

as far as i can see looking at the wiring (the manual is useless and not even relevant to an H4 bulb) it has 2X heavy wires (+ & -) for the HID and 2 thinner wires (+ & -) for the smaller bulb at the side?

i'm sure you don't need the relay to wire this kit, you lift the ballasts and you will see that there are plugs underneath, if you put the H4 style plug on the plugs at the bulb and the 2 pin to the ones at the bottom it will allow you to wire them independantly much easier than using the heavy wire which does the EXACT same thing.

I've already put it all together in the house if anyone wants a picture of how i'm sure they should look wired up?

[Leon.]

so you think one of the other wires moves the beam?

No, I just think the relay switches between the two.

as far as i can see looking at the wiring (the manual is useless and not even relevant to an H4 bulb) it has 2X heavy wires (+ & -) for the HID and 2 thinner wires (+ & -) for the smaller bulb at the side?

Agreed, and yes the manual is a xxxx waste of time

i'm sure you don't need the relay to wire this kit, you lift the ballasts and you will see that there are plugs underneath, if you put the H4 style plug on the plugs at the bulb and the 2 pin to the ones at the bottom it will allow you to wire them independantly much easier than using the heavy wire which does the EXACT same thing.

I've already put it all together in the house if anyone wants a picture of how i'm sure they should look wired up?

I think you need to whole lot mate but don't quote me. Get a pic up...

Yes I agree you have to use the H4 connectors sitting under the ballasts to fit to the large spade looking connectors, and that these fit to the existing circuitry. The other part of the wiring for the main beam goes up to the relay though - I assume were talking about the same thing here - which I can only imagine has to be used to flick between the large voltage of the HIDs and low voltage of the mains.

With the above everything is taken care of, including the small fuses which are obvious where they go. I assume then that the large fuses should replace the ones in the fusebox in the car already, or are they spares?

Except for one thing - the big multiplug with 2 unconnected wires coming off it, and the other 2 going to the relay. I assume this has to go to the feed coming direct from the battery, which must exist already in the car...

Let me know what you think...

[Kenny-Boost]

remember the wires with the fuse on them are wired direct to the battery, as such they need to be fused, if your pulling the current from the already existing power supply to each side its already fused.

I'll put a pic up, i'm still investigateing.

Gimme 10 mins i'll take a photo and throw it up

[Andy.B]

I wouldnt even dream of running 2 ballasts on the std MR2 wiring. Im going to go for high current switched via the MR2's wiring but powered direct from the battery for optimal power.

I doubt very much the MR2's wiring will be up to scratch for high current applications. Also i herd import wiring was thinner than UK spec wiring.

[Kenny-Boost]

Starting Current is 10AMPs with about 3.5A once running

Standard H4 uses IIRC around 10A also so not sure what the issue would be.

All the relay is used for is to let the MR2 wiring switch on the current from the direct battery feed if using that harness.

I agree the direct harness is a good idea but its NOT needed. Also i've done a fair bit of car wiring in my day and this assembly will work.



Its up to each individual how they wire it up, this way is pretty straight forward.

Using the battery harness works too, depends how much faith you have in the toyota wiring.

Can assemble it using the battery harness too if it helps anyone?

[Leon.]

Andy have you seen the setup?

The ballasts have 2 wires coming from them: 1 is for the low power halogens for main beam , the 2nd is for HID for dipped.

It s the Halogens that we are suggesting to run via the existing wiring, they are essentially not connected to the HIDs from what I can see. The HIDs then join up and require one lead to go to positive and one to negative on the battery.

I see what you mean K-B, that you shouldn't need the fuses for the halogens if putting them to the existing setup, but you have to to complete the circuit - not a problem though...

How about fuses for the HID wires then, is that not via the relay?

[Kenny-Boost]

also to anyone planning to use the direct battery feed, the battery feed will carry the dip beam switching, but how do you plan to run the full beam?

[Kenny-Boost]

and as a final point looking at the battery feed cable, its rated to 18A, and realistically should be more unless i'm missing something?

[Andy.B]

Yeh i understand how the stuff in the box works and how ist ment to be wired. But i have had bad experiences with messing about with higher wattage bulbs in cars. I ended up having to splice in a whole new fuse box into the car as the old one melted over all the contacts leaving relays and fuse connection exposed to one another and obviously a chance of fire.

So i just want to urr on the side of caution if you get what i mean

Not doubting the kit, its just my paranoia

[Andy.B]

also to anyone planning to use the direct battery feed, the battery feed will carry the dip beam switching, but how do you plan to run the full beam?

Twin relay setup

But concidering the wattage of that filliment bulb the loom is rated to use that. So i wouldnt have a problem running that on the std loom.

But if you really wanted you could have it switched via a 2nd relay as you would the xenons.

[Kenny-Boost]

its going to mean stripping tons of wires to run a whole extra feed, that doesn't sound like the way its meant to be run.

besides to run a full beam, its just a normal bulb, why would you use a relay?

[Andy.B]

Sorry re: edited the post to explain

[Kenny-Boost]

so running the battery loom, one of the multiplugs running to the headlights is used, how would you get the full beam out of that side? there are tons of pain in the backside issues with using the battery harness i'm messing with it right now to see whats the best way. Still the standard wiring is going to be cleaner looking too

[Andy.B]

Sod it ill explain it better. Drawing takes to long when its done in Paint! :lol

Basicly ill be using the same sort of design loom that the kit comes with but rather than having a large gauge wire going into the relay and two small ones coming out on the same terminal. I will run a larger gauge wire to the ballast units via 2 seperate relays rather than the one relay. Plus personally i recon i could do a neater job with two seperate feeds either side of the boot.

[Kenny-Boost]

Kool

[Leon.]

Think I'll wait for you guys to figure it out, I'm gonna pm PeteJ

[Kenny-Boost]

well leeroy, post up the results