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Thank you sirriot68 wrote:All ready.
should be, so I'm not overly worried.... name like here or something similar.
I'll have a fully MOT compliant plate should it be needed. 
. Well, the full picture is I'm pretty much a mute until around 8:30am, according to Adrienne, as I just sit reading stuff on the internet and grunting 
.. I digress 
Which has always lingered in my mind due to the horror stories about cracked blocks etc. One of the mods this engine was described as having done before I bought it was "HKS Racing shells". Until now I've never known what that actually means however now I'm wondering if that means the block have been sleeved? 
Or if it's something completely different and just poorly worded?"shells", but then I've never heard of HKS making or branding engine bearings. I would expect cylinder sleeves to be described as liners or sleeves, but you never can tell (you have to take too much out to put in 86mm sleeves as it is).Magic Beans wrote:I've been doing a spot of reading, as I tend to do first thing in the morning.
Anyway.
I've always know that the block is bored, in order to accept 87mm pistons.
The burning of the fuel and therefore maximum pressure should take place in the cylinder head. When engines are built with too high compression ratio for the fuel and boost being run, like every engine I see on any forum, the tuner retards the timing to stop detonation. This results in the maximum pressure being when the pistons are around 34deg atdc down the bore. The blocks are not design for this and do not have the strength at that place in the bore so they crack. If an engine is detonating with this advance then the boost should be lowered, higher octane fuel used or compression lowered. Timing should not be retarded, it is the wrong thing to do but that is all most tuners know to do. Never removed the head or sump so couldn't say for sure what's actually in there. Hopefully so long as I look after it things will stay solid. It's got a good map on it too, without pushing mega boost and meddling with the timing too much. Ryan's brief was 400bhp with plenty of head room, so nice and safe. That's what he gave me (87mm bore) and seems fine. It's had a bit more boost than yours as well. ( bottom portion of the block filled with a special compound to stiffen it up) 
(you never know ) I think a 5S based build and swap would be the way I'd go. Although more likely I've forgotten what 400 feels like and after a hard run I'll be back to shaky leg and realising it's just madness (riot68) was kind enough to arrange to have some made for me there was no accounting for acts of dumb (on my part), in the form of ordering the wrong sized plates (ordered 12", needed 13") 
No big drama though as I've ordered another set from the place I got the Mule v1 plates made. Hopefully I'll have them in the next few days.. Note the ugly screw holes.
It basically mounts using the stock holes and allows the new plate to be attached using adhesive pads, removing the need for scruffy holes. The holes are countersunk so allow a flush fit.
Just needs the plate attaching now 
, i hate taking mine off Loads cleaner. More annoying that tinting T bar glass.... dawesy wrote:good work, like the plate holder
really must get some new plates for mine as they are looking tatty
you must be the most experienced member for front bumper removal
Got it down to about an hour to remove it, including the wide-arches, lights etc. Having removed it recently makes it easier now, as I replaced all the bolts and fixings last time around. The first time on the old car was just one big sheared off head fest 
Having the quads makes things easier because they can be removed in a couple of minutes .. 
