So, onto the build.
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I only use the best assembly lubes and sealants.
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Not cheap, but they're just as important as the component parts.
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Dirko-S is not only used by manufacturers and top race teams because it does it's job properly and reliably, but also has a much shorter curing time than most sealants.
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![Image](http://www.sbits.net/noble/graphogen.jpg)
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The block is two halves, upper and lower.
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So first job was to dry-install the crank to check bearing clearances with Plastigage.
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So new bearings fitted, block halves torqued together, and clearances checked.
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All spot on.
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Then take apart, clean off all traces of wax, and refit crank and bearings with new bolts.
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![Image](http://www.sbits.net/noble/crank_installed.jpg)
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![Image](http://www.sbits.net/noble/block_lower.jpg)
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![Image](http://www.sbits.net/noble/block_bolts.jpg)
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Crankshaft fitted.
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Now onto pistons and rods.
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Noble used Arrow Precision rods in all their 3 litre engines, so they were remove from old pistons, cleaned and put to one side for refitting.
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One of a handful of sets of pistons custom made by Cosworth.
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Compression reduced to 7.9:1.
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A cool
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£1700.
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![Image](http://www.sbits.net/noble/pistons_in_box.jpg)
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First job was to spend a couple of hours gapping all the top and 2nd rings.
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Done.
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Next job was to fit rods to pistons, then rings to pistons.
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Done.
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First piston was slipped into bore, big end cap nipped up, and cranshaft rotated to check for binding.
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DISASTER
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- crank won't fully rotate.
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