For the last month or so I've been doing research into the best braking system upgrade for my car.
http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... highlight=
Almost unanimously had feedback on here saying that

a

"Big Brake Kit" is overkill, and can actually cause more harm then good,

if the breaking bias is affected adversely.

So then it was, whats going to be the

best

"disc

& pad" combonation.

After hearing so much Bad news about EBC

products such as their drilled discs and

"yellow stuff" pads completely

disintegrating, I found out about the

"Porterfield R4S" fast road and track pad.
http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... c&start=20

Paul at TCB parts had already advised upon the

"MTEC dimpled and Grooved"
discs and along with a set of

"HEL" braided lines and managed to source the

Porterfield pads.

For fluid he has recommended a GULF fluid that performs better then Motul RBF660

but for the same price, so thats being ordered shortly as I intended to do the braided lines after discs and pads due to funds.

I received through the parts from TCB whilst the car was at DPM, with
the intention of fitting on Friday the 16th.









The reason being is that I left for Paris for work on the 12th due to return on the 15th

late at night, and on the 18th was Players 10th anniversary car show that DPM Autobody had a stand on.

My car was one of 4 to be shown on his stand.

It was going to be tight but we thought we could do it.

Typically the 16th rained all day, leaving me to swap the discs and pads, and fit the newly re-furbished wheels

on the day before the show.

Started with the fronts and had no issue's.

At the same time

I wanted to give the disc guards a coat of gloss black paint as

they had become brown and rusty over age.

I had some of the

"Foliatec"
brake calliper paint that I used to do the callipers last year so used that.

Gave them a good wire brushing and cleaned off with brake cleaner

then a lick of paint.

















Re-Assembled and with new pads and discs and a liberal coating of copper grease in the required areas.









Then I repeated the same process for the rear's, but this is clearly when problems
started to arise.





During the fitting process of the new discs and pads I knew that the pistons had to be pushed back in on the front,

but had done this before with relative ease using just my thumbs

!

, This time however it needed a G clamp

to get them to slide back in.

This was nothing in comparison to the rear

pistons, I didn't actually have a calliper winding tool and had to leave what I

was doing and drive to a neighbours local garage to lend one.

Upon using the tool it became apparent that they were not in perfect order,
as it took all my strength to wind it back in on both sides.

It got so bad on the

drivers rear that i had to use a lever bar on the tool to get the slots of the piston in the right location for the pads to line up

!!

This should have been a warning sign of things to come, but I'm only a basic mechanic on my own vehicles.

Anyway car back together finally at 6pm

( started at 11:30am

)

and it was time for a test drive.

A mate jumped in with me and we took it to the next village and back

doing a process that Paul at TCB explained would be the best to bed in the new

brake setup with.

1st heat cycle:
5 x 40-15mph slow downs with conservative pressure

allow to cool for 30 mins

2nd heat cycle:
5x 60-15mph slow downs, increasing pressure on each one.

ending with

large presssure.

Cool down.

We applied the 1st heat cycle treatment, with lots of noises

coming from the brakes that seemed to be the coating of the discs

wearing off possibly.

Then got back to the garages.

This is where I possibly didn't
help by applying the hand brake

!

, left the car for 5 minutes then tried to drive it down to the house.

As soon as the wheels made one full rotation there was large bang and a big sensation through the pedal,

leaving a white mark on the passenger side rear disc.

This we now think is because applying the hand brake with the pads still not cooled and being Carbon

/ Kevlar,

They stuck to the pads surface.

The car kept on making a large knocking noise

each time the wheels would complete one full rotation that was made

100x worse if you applied the brakes.

No Players show for me

was properly F++king gutted and

with all that we had done to get the car ready in time, felt I had screwed it all
up.

That night Gazza

& Paul were really helpful and mentioned it could be the hand brake cables.

so at 6:30am Sunday morning there I was removing them.

But it made no difference.

Clearly in Hindsight and since speaking to people
it sounds like the rear callipers are binding and the extra spacing needed and much more bite on the new pads

have just shown up an issue that was probably apparent before hand.

Silver lining I guess is that now I know they were not perfect before hand.

So Sunday was now reserved for heavy drinking to waste away the sorrows
of missing something I had been looking forward to for a while.

Anyway I had recently met a couple of guys that started a company called

"Accelerated motor repairs" that did so after leaving Abbey motorsport

at a local car show.

One of which has a Time Attack EVO 8 and the other

"20k's worth of MR2 Turbo" so Ive booked them in to re-build all the callipers if and fit the braided lines and put the new fluid in.

Along with new hand brake cables.

At least ill have the best braking setup I could have once its done.
