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To get the car to idle better jim and loose the massive VE drop your engine has at 2k you will need to adjust the intake cam.. mines smoooth now !! Timed it and timed it to HKS specs.... give them the benefit of doubt !! Good heads up on the FC adjustments Ryan... if mines playing up and its not my spaz right foot... I'll use those settings ! 
But if I can get the idle down a little, and loose the slight stuttering it's werth sacrificing I guess. Tho I still plan on cracking 400hp with the car 
jimGTS wrote:My only concern is come mot time, they may think it's to loud as high idle.
.. mine doesn't even get close! Woo! So hopefully that will sort me out. Will need it checking tho before mot time to see my options if it doesn't pass. If lift reduces lag, then what about a set of Rev 3 N/A cams? Slightly higher lift? 
What sort of job is it to change cam timing anyway?
.. if you've got the HKS 272's destined for the rev 3+ engine, the optimal peak lift is usually near spot on to zero'ing the cam timing gears out ( as long as stock head gasket thickness has been retained 1.0mm Post 93, 1.2mm pre 93). Likewise with the pre 93 / Rev 1/2 engines./ 272s from the stateside but originally destined for the Rev 1/2's engine, you need to time them up as fitment to the rev 3 head at zero wont achieve optimum / HKS settings. ( Rev 3 + heads are taller ! + introducing other factors that will contribute to variance ) :- 272 duration 10.4mm lift = 111 Degrees- 272 Duration 10.2mm lift = 116 Degrees- If your cams were destined for the Rev 3+ engine, then no matter what duration cam they are, they've been machined / calculated to an optimal phase peak at intake - 111 degrees and Exhaust - 116 deg accordingly."benefiting adjustments" to these settings will promote improved torque /power earlier in the rpm scale or later ... which should nudge discussions to who finds the best settings for their driving styles, what they want from the engine. ie. I prefer making loads of torque and power at the top end of the rev range ( 5K+) due to the noahs ark turbocharger I have fitted. Would even looking at the cams, tell me what they are? How good are people at identifying a set of cams if no markings? Very different to my 301hp rev2 with the ct20b.- cam cover off... if its a HKS cam setup, it'll have HKS stamped on it and it'll also have the part number to for identification. All depends if you want to get your hands dirty !! Pretty sure stock rev1/2 gasket is 0.9mm
The wealth of junk floating around in my head mainly out of curiosity is collected back to 1994 
when I owned my first 3S engine and 4A and wanted to make them go faster !! Tbh, I love the top endness of my setup.
! 
rev3 ecu conversion and power fc, all the bolt ons, all fitted on my driveway . Was a very tidy car and great to drive. Not many rev1/2s with ct20b pumping out those figs on the uk forums 301hp/290lb, 255atw. Then the rev5 came up for sale literally the week i planned to put those items on! So surely belt needs to slip off and move the cam slightly (I realise the belt wouldn't need to come fully off, even more of a pita). Perhaps ive got the wrong end of the stick about adjusting."setup" for power by PP !!..... cant really speculate unless you're 100% they're stock and what cams you're running ... Rev 1/2's you can adjust the degree ever so slightly by moving the slip pin in a different location ( movings its position )rev3 ecu conversion
!! Not many rev1/2s with ct20b pumping out those figs on the uk forums 301hp/290lb, 255atw
+ Modded CT26 saw a regular 12.4* up the strip !! 
!! With the correct adjustments, you maybe able to release more power !! Mine was rolled at 1.3 bar and put out 425 bhp (FW) 352 lbs 
JJ wrote:You must have adjustable cam gears if you say the cams have been
May explain why ryan couldn't get it to rev any lower if you've a mix match of cams and stock cam gears.
Anyway.
rev3 ecu conversion
I wrote the conversion slides that are referenced
Not many rev1/2s with ct20b pumping out those figs on the uk forums 301hp/290lb, 255atw
Never rolled mine, but my original rev 2 setup with rev 3 ecu
You need to pull your cam cover off and see whats in there
"setup" by PP, lol....but i guess if thats what ryan thinks, then who am i to disagree....even if not pp, i guess they must have been setup by someone. wouldnt have thought that would be an issue. no diea....looked grey/black like stock to me....(tho i didnt remove the whole cambelt cover).i personally didnt say my cams have been
Combination of everyones comments !could be a possibiltiy that the cams were just put in, and stock cam gears.
. meaning in stock location.. which means your stock cam gears are fine. Chucking them in can work.. ( other factors not considered like HG thickness, deck and head skimming etc )...I've seen many do it.. but I'm particularly anal when it comes to clearance to the follower/bucket / valvetrain... you're fitting cams to improve lift and duration.. if the clearances are miles apart, you wont benefit from them... so each valve clearance needs to be measured accordingly... A noisy valvetrain often indicates this hasn't been done. 
...i would asume this was done on install, as does look and sound like the engine has had a full rebuild...(theres lots of randon jubilee clips in hard to reach places, clips on the water elbow matrix, removed tvsv etc etc)not entirely sure what i should be doing now.
.. or you want to bury your head in the garage... spend an afternoon taking the cam cover off... id the cams... take them through a 360 engine rotation if you can't see some markings, make a note !!. then he'll / you'll already know whats in there...JJ wrote:not entirely sure what i should be doing now.
When the sun comes out.
If you know and trust the history of the previous owner.
(its only been in country 8months, ive had it for 4)(check my garage) so no real details at all.(did come with a PP engine lid to, which the bu88er took off 
)Ryan.g wrote:
You should have rang Marc.
On the commandor go to settings
Reason you can get round this well on the Link is because you can calibrate the TPS through the software which you cant with the PFC.
Ryan
was a bit of an exageration it is a bit jumpy but worse when you are trying to drive smooth ,i found if you drive flat out everywhere then it aint a problem 
??! I did it on mine last night and can confirm, the low speed driving is smoother ! 
Needless to say I was suprised !!!! Doesn't help I've richened the map on no load @ high rpm ! 
16 mpg anyone ??!! Chris wrote:Injectors have nowt to do with poor idle, mines on 1000's and ticks over at 850rpm but I'm on stock Rev 3 cams.
like i said in my prev post, 1150's can keep a smooth idle while delivering fuel for high bhp, i believe they was designed for just this as the next size down was 1000cc (too small for some setups) but next size up was something silly like 1600 -which do give a lumpy idle.