[Mk2] [Turbo] oil cooler

[doeboy]

hi all

i am in the maket or will be soon for a oil cooler for my rev3 tubby, i am after a ARC,GReddy or a Pheonix Power one preferably.

i have a st205 cc and want to mount the oil cooler in the stock i/c position, anyone done this or have any ideas where i can get one from?

cheers

steve

[nikaiyo]

GtsChris has a phoenix Power for sale mate.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Mr2-Turbo- ... 240%3A1318

[cantfindausername]

Rare maybe, but if that turned up at my door after shelling out £300... I'd be pretty pi$$ed off

Personally I'd go for a mocal one.

Also, have you checked oil temps to see if you really need an oil cooler?

[Bender Unit]

Quite seriously, save yourself a lot of money and make your own.

They are very simple bits of kit and you can get the components everywhere.

You will need a thermostatic sandwich plate (£30 – Think Auto, they will have one for the 3sgte).

An oil cooler, say 19 row (£70 again from Think Auto)

Aeroquip push fit hose comes in blue (£10 IIRC a meter)

X4 Aeroquip push fit hose ends (£2 - £4.50 depending on what bends you go for)



The cool thing with the Aeroquip push fit hose is you can cut it yourself and install your own hose ends (unlike braided) so you can tailor it to your exact need (most kits have too much braided hose which you cant shorten).

The push fit hose also has a higher working pressure and temp range compared to braided and they also do BSP hose ends in the traditional anodised Red Blue.

I would recon that 2x 45’ hose ends and 2x 90’s on the cooler itself will be perfect for where you want to place the cooler.


As for the mounting, just get some metal brackets from B&Q and adapt them to work with the stock IC mounts.

Make sure you get a thermostatic sandwich plate, this means you only utilise the oil cooler when the oil temps rise above normal, as without it on a daily drive the oil will potentially never get up to the correct operating temperature which is just as bad as it being too hot.

[doeboy]

cheers, some good helpful advice there mate!!

top man, i will look into it further!

i am getting nrmal cruising tems around 90-95c, but when giving it some beans it has gone as far up as 110c on the defi guage!

[cantfindausername]

Gees! I don't want over 86'C from my oil.

[doeboy]

why?

[cantfindausername]

Cos thats idea temp for oil

edit: Sorry should say oil temp coming into the engine from the cooler.

[doeboy]

my temp readings are taken from the sump pan iirc!

[bobhatton]

When I was racing my Chevy with GTX Castrol told me that the oil temp should be above 100c to boil off any water that may have got in the sump. Most of the time the temp was 135c with no problems at all

Bob

[doeboy]

i have been told that my oil i use is good between 70degc and 150degc, this begs the question that do i really need a cooler when the oil only gets to 110degc, but if it is more stable at around 90degc id be happier!

[Bender Unit]

If you only use the car on thwe road then its a safe bet that you will have no need for an oil cooler.

[RST]

Sorry -absolutely no offence to GTSChris but I would not touch that oil cooler with a barge pole. I do allot of hydraulics through work and looking at the state of that (going by the pic) you have NO idea of the contamination in there. I wouldn't connect that up to anything without proper flushing -money ontop of that price despite the name -so it would have to be dirt cheap for me.

...Was reading AG Bells book -4 stroke performance tuning recently, as I have quite high temps (though it turns out it's probably a calibration issue with my aftermarket ECU) but the temps you say shouldn't do that much harm if at all -they sound well within the limits of the oil TBH.

...But that's not for turbo's. Have you any way of checking what the temp is on another method to confirm? I've been recommended to fit a lower temp thermostat first if possible, then there's loads of oil coolers available if you really need one.

I was advised to check the cooling circuit -the radiator should have a gadual gradient from hot> cold between the inlet/outlet. If you can see hotspots across the radiator (for whatever reason) -you may have effects on temperatures associated with the cooling circuit in the first place. You might want to replace the thermostat to rule that one out as well?

...few ideas, any use?

[roryh]

can someone provide the part number for a thermostatic sandwich plate (with extra holes for oil temp) - gen3 3SGTE - I want to build a cooler setup and do not like £££ of the japanese units at present.

[jimGTS]

What is 'to' cold for oil temp?

I have one of those phoenix power oil coolers, came with the car.
Am seeing 75-80c in winter, and at the back end of summer was seeing 80-82c.
Temp measured at the sump via a special sump plug sensor with the apexi el1 gauge.

Edit, this is with silkolene pro S 10w50

[Bender Unit]

If you’re seeing 75 / 80 in winter and 80 / 82 in summer then that’s too cold. IIRC optimum cruising oil temp should be around 86 and for hard work you should be looking at 95 / 105 or there abouts. If the oil is too cold then it looses the ability to find its way between areas of tight tolerance (bearings / pistons etc) which can accelerate wear. Modern syth oils (like what your using) help this though so I wouldn’t unduly worry about it lad.

If you can be bothered then fit a thermostatic sandwich plate, to make sure you only get the extra cooling when it’s needed – or just fit a shutter to the oil cooler to raise the temps a bit more. Some tin foil wrapped around ½ of it will reduce its cooling effectiveness and raise the temps more – its old school but effective.

[jimGTS]

If you’re seeing 75 / 80 in winter and 80 / 82 in summer then that’s too cold. IIRC optimum cruising oil temp should be around 86 and for hard work you should be looking at 95 / 105 or there abouts. If the oil is too cold then it looses the ability to find its way between areas of tight tolerance (bearings / pistons etc) which can accelerate wear. Modern syth oils (like what your using) help this though so I wouldn’t unduly worry about it lad.

If you can be bothered then fit a thermostatic sandwich plate, to make sure you only get the extra cooling when it’s needed – or just fit a shutter to the oil cooler to raise the temps a bit more. Some tin foil wrapped around ½ of it will reduce its cooling effectiveness and raise the temps more – its old school but effective.

thing is my gauge has told me the engine has seen close to 100C before (i personally havent, max about 87-90 on fast driving late summer)....it has built in memory, just like my boost gauge (both apexi EL1 gauges, so pretty sweet)...boost gauge has told me ive seen 2bar of boost, lol...
so not really sure what the car was used for back in japan, to have the need of an oil cooler, and 2bar of boost!.....(unplugging the + to the gauges wipes its memory, so i am certain the my car has seen this in its lifetime, and the gauges wernt just from another car, and transfered there settings)....

anyway, my cooler is a PP one, so hangs out the back, dont think tinfoil would look to great, lol....actually i guess it only cools from air going front to back, so if i put the foil on 1/2 of the inside (so unseen), could work???

whats this shutter you mention to? thanks....

[JJ]

When you get the chance Jim, count how many rows it has.... each rib from side to side is a row... ! The more rows, the better the cooling. I've a 16 row on mine..

I suppose you'll be getting all the spray off the road as well this time of year that'll pull the heat from the oil..... I originally thought of this location, but fitted mine next to the air filter.

Funny.. I've got a permanant spal fan on mine.. ( I should make it switchable )and mine sits around 85 degrees... once warmed up... then, my turbo is purely oil cooled, so theres that to bring it upto temps quickly !

[Bender Unit]

thing is my gauge has told me the engine has seen close to 100C before (i personally havent, max about 87-90 on fast driving late summer)....it has built in memory, just like my boost gauge (both apexi EL1 gauges, so pretty sweet)...boost gauge has told me ive seen 2bar of boost, lol... so not really sure what the car was used for back in japan, to have the need of an oil cooler, and 2bar of boost!.....(unplugging the + to the gauges wipes its memory, so i am certain the my car has seen this in its lifetime, and the gauges wernt just from another car, and transfered there settings)....

I wouldn’t worry unduly chap, Japan get some hot summers and if its been for a prolonged rag down a motorway at boost then its likely have seen that sort of temp and remember 100 deg isn’t a problem, in fact that’s pretty much in line with what you would expect to see as a result of hard driving.

It’s a performance car after all, so it’s unlikely its would have been driven gently for those years before you picked it up It may have even been used on track.

anyway, my cooler is a PP one, so hangs out the back, dont think tinfoil would look to great, lol....actually i guess it only cools from air going front to back, so if i put the foil on 1/2 of the inside (so unseen), could work???

Yep you only need to blank off the front.

whats this shutter you mention to? thanks....

Its basically anything you can use to block off the rad / oil cooler. A lot of old vintage cars had shutters, literally like roller blinds made out of leather etc that would be fitted to the front of a radiator. In the colder months you would use the shutter to block off air flowing through the rad to help raise the engine temps.

Obviously doesn’t really apply to your case, but tin foil would do the same thing. Basically anything that will stop the airflow will do the job.

[Frustrated Pilot]

Bender Unit is right.

I have some aerospace gauges monitoing my lump.. when the has been warming up (ticking over for 10-15 mins) im seeing 60-70 degrees. when hard driving its slightly over 85 degrees.

Plus mine is a completely new engine. Only done 500 miles