[Mk2] [Turbo] ENGINE IS POORLY, please look and see if you can suggest anything :-(

[RANDOMr2]

I got a text from a mate who is on the performance car course at Bridgwater College, Somerset yesterday asking if I wanted to chuck the mr2 on the college dyno in the evening as they had an open evening. Of course I jumped at the chance! The last time I had it there I had only had the mr2 for a week and didn't know anything about it and I had been installing some mods (induction, BOV etc) and had accidentally put the engine into "safe mode" so when it had its run it only made a pitiful 171bhp at the fly I didn't know until I had posted on the mr2 forums that it had gone into safe mode as I'd never had a car that did that (I never played with the rx7 that much) ANYHOOO fast forward to yesterday. The 2 was still spluttering a bit and what I thought was running rich...obviously isn't.....but I still wanted the 3sgte to redeem itself - after all, since the last RR it now has a nice decat and much better intercooler fitted which should show some improvement at least. I also didn't want to pass up on a very generous offer of a free dyno run and I could then use it to find what problems there are.

I wasn't really prepared for how badly it would perform though....

I'll let the readouts speak for themselves; that way the people who know what they're talking about can comment and hopefully keep the muppety posts off this (attempt) at a serious, fault finding thread (sorry to sound arsey but I've had enough of this engine messing me about)

Mods that are active (by this I mean the Apex'i safc II I have is not adding any correction as it was running in the second map base that has no modifications and the Apex'i RSM is not activating anything else as it will be when AFTER I've got it working as it should and the 2nd stage of boost was not activated so was running 0.7bar as the 1st stage):

Mods:

* Apex'i Power Intake and ally heatshield
* Bigger intercooler
* Hard boost pipes joined by proper couplers and decent mikilor (sp?) clamps
* Decat
* Fujitisubo catback
* DSBC running at 1st stage of 0.7bar with the Turbo vsv disconnected.




I had checked for ecu fault codes for the spluttering earlier in the day and it had nothing stored. Just before I started the engine on the rollers last night I reset the ecu so if it had been in safe mode again it would reset and be normal. As can be seen from the two runs done last night the ecu didn't change anything as the runs are very similar. The Blue line/run is the Graph and A/F for the 1st run I did ages ago and the red and green were from last night. You can see the blue run is very jerky and the red and green are much smoother on both torque and bhp but it's still way down on power. Then look at the A/F for all 3 runs....what do the learned ones make of that???

ANY IDEAS??


PS thanks to Sam and the other guys at the College I will get it right and come back to avenge the bad runs

[3sgte]

if those AFR's are to be believed you need to throw that safc in the bin before it kills your engine .17.5-1 when coming on boost that is bad .
and what 190 odd bhp at 0.7 bar which is about 10 psi ,well thats not far off as good as i gets with a ct26 at that boost .
but get that fuelling sorted ,as it stands that af graph is sooo much worse that if you had the std ecu making it rich all the time

saying that the torque doesn't look too bad ,i would say those afr readings are wrong .
get it on another dyno to see whats what ,and do a run with the safc disconnected as well

[RANDOMr2]

dude, the safc isn't doing anything. As stated in the 1st post, its on the 2nd setting which has no map so is running no corrections. That's the problem

I'm going to try a different AFM.


What are rev2 turbos supposed to be standard? Mine has the mods in the list (not including the safc which is not doing anything at the mo)

cheers

j

[jimGTS]

as said, if those afs were right, im pretty sure your engine would have implodded on itself AGES ago.....

could be werth replacing the fuel filter, maybe even fuel pump (tho later isnt easy or cheap)....

you prob would expect at least 200-210 at the fly, even with them bolt ons at 10psi......
is there not a boost graph??? you sure its running 10psi at the peak revs? and not just spiking to 10psi?

[RANDOMr2]

Right I'm going to do the fuel filter as soon as I find where to buy one from and I have a SARD Fuel pressure reg on order.

However, this is strange I think.

I did an oil change on the 2 yesterday - was a couple hundred miles over it's due date and bearing in mind it's been iffy for much longer than a couple of hundred miles is what makes this strange.

The car now boosts quicker, runs smoother and doesn't seem to be hessitant. Before the oil change it was boosting to what my Apex'i boost gauge was saying was 0.7bar. It now goes to around 1bar (I can't see exactly as I'm too busy hanging on )

[dawolf]

Strange, an oil change alone shouldn't make any difference to the boosting level. Will just maintain the engine's health and make it feel smoother.

[Laney]

You only did an oil change?

Did you change the filter? Did you run any 'engine flush/cleaner' through? Did you touch any of the sensors on the block when you did the oil change?

As mentioned, simply removing the sump plug and draining oil. Refitting the sump plug and then refilling with oil, should make no difference.

[RANDOMr2]

Well yeh, new oil and new filter.

That's what I thought, just changing it shouldn't make any difference but trust me it has My mate drove it up his road and came back grinning...he didn't like it before, said it was crap and slow and it was as it wasn't boosting properly.

[SFLee]

was it enough oil ? when you drain it, lack of oil will not help, may be it was below minumin mark on old oil, how much litre , you drain ? and how much oil you put in ?

[Laney]

I would have thought that too much oil could have been more of a problem. If its above the max level it could have been getting pushed round the breather pipe to easily. This would cause the AFM to go silly which would cut boost.

[RANDOMr2]

I'm a proper square when it comes to checking the oil and water (comes from previously having an RX7 ) and the oil level was at the top all the time. not over, ever. I'm well confusseled

[Laney]

Then I can only think that you have knocked a sensor or a wire whildt doing the oil change. It does seem rather strange.

But atleast its running good again now.