knocking noise fom my rear!!!

[Mr Two]

I've got a dull knocking noise coming from the rear end of the car,mainly when going over bumps.The only thing noticable at the moment is a rotten,crumbly circular bar(strengthener?)on the nearside which seems to go from in the underneath middle of the car to the chassis underneath the rear suspension?? :?Theres also one running to the other side.that one looks rusty but it seems solid.What are these two bars and what do they do??

Cheers anyone
Dave

[Mikejc]

You really need to get the car up in the air and have a good look around at all of the bushes. What you are hearing is consistant with the sound made by worn drop links, so have a look and get back to us

Mikejc

[Mr Two]

Thanks Mikejc.Must admit this noise is a bit offputting and i need to sort it asap.Is the worn drop-link thing a common problem on these cars?n where is the drop-link situated exactly.Sorry to appear bit thick here but i've not long had the car and i haven't had chance to study it from all angles yet.

Anyway,thanks again

Dave

[lower]

what you describe sounds like the anti roll bar which runs from a ball joint attached to the stut to another ball joint, across the underside of the car through two rubber bushes and then connects to the strut attached to the other rear wheel. you need to jack the car up so that both rear wheels are hanging in the air and then give the anti roll bar a good around the bushes and the ball joints. you will probably find that the anti roll bar bushes or the ball joints have some play in them. if you find any play, replace that part as that will be the cause of the noise. there literally should be no play what so ever.

[phaeton]

I had a knocking noise on the turbo the other week, but it was more a sharp knock rather than a dull thud. It turned out to be the top mounting of the shocker aborber. You could get hold of the shock & actually move it in the mounting. I thin kwhen the shocks were changed last time whoever did it must have not got it seated in the slot correctly & it had come loose. Couple of new mountings and shocks from Fensport sorted it out.

[Mr Two]

Thanks for the info you guys.I'm hoping for some good weather this weekend to have a look at my car.
Can anyone tell me what the two circular bars are as described in my original message??

Thanks

[Mr Two]

Hey,lower,think you are spot-on with your diagnosis m8!! I managed to have a look at the anti-roll bar bushes tonight and the nearside one has a fair bit of movement ib it.The other side seems tight enough though.Don't suppose you,or anyone else knows if its a fairly easy job?It doesn't look as if it will take too long.

Thanks again

Dave

[rore]

Hi Dave,

The knocking suspension thing is v.common and is usually the drop-links ( the rod with a ball joint on either end attaching the strut to the anti-roll bar ).

The original toyota ones are a pain to get off, as you need to use an allen key.

I recomend using these http://www.twosrus.co.uk/product_info.p ... 0658009b11.

Just fitted these myself, only took about 20 mins (after I'd got the toyota ones off that took about 45 mins, the instructions recomend using an angle grinder and I wish I had one ). Now the knocking noise has gone, I don't have to swerve round man hole covers any more

Rore

[Paul R]

Hi Dave,

The knocking suspension thing is v.common and is usually the drop-links ( the rod with a ball joint on either end attaching the strut to the anti-roll bar ).

The original toyota ones are a pain to get off, as you need to use an allen key.

I recomend using these http://www.twosrus.co.uk/product_info.p ... 0658009b11.

Just fitted these myself, only took about 20 mins (after I'd got the toyota ones off that took about 45 mins, the instructions recomend using an angle grinder and I wish I had one ). Now the knocking noise has gone, I don't have to swerve round man hole covers any more

Rore

Hi,

Just a quick tip. The drop link bolts have locktite on them. Heat them up with a blowtorch first, then they come off easy!!

Paul.

[rore]

Thanks for your tip Paul, wish I'd known that before

Will put into practise when I change my front ones

Rore

[Paul R]

Thanks for your tip Paul, wish I'd known that before

Will put into practise when I change my front ones

Rore

No probs mate. I had to learn the hard way too. I used a grinder the first time, then someone told me they were glued in there!! ARRGHH!!

:D

Paul.

[lower]

its a pretty sraightforward task if you can get the ball joints on eaach end of the anti roll bar undone. mine were tight but with a ring spanner and some decent leverage the came undone ok. if the allen head in the end of the ball joint rounds off a torx bit can be a substitute.

you need to drop the subframe about an inch on each side of the car by lowering it on the bolts. then you can access the studs that retain the bushes.

make sure you measure the size of the anti roll bar before you order bushes. they come in various different sizes for differing size anti roll bars. my car turned out to have TRD anti roll bars on

Hey,lower,think you are spot-on with your diagnosis m8!! I managed to have a look at the anti-roll bar bushes tonight and the nearside one has a fair bit of movement ib it.The other side seems tight enough though.Don't suppose you,or anyone else knows if its a fairly easy job?It doesn't look as if it will take too long.

Thanks again

Dave

[Oscar_Whild]

Mr Two,
I think I have the same issue with the small bracing bars you mention. Here is my question and the responses.

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... highlight=

PS. I have had the clutch changed since I took the photos so the second problem has been fixed

Oscar