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[Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
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Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
I have a cap and rotor arm in stock if you want them early..
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
I got the same un-nerving noise when my dizzy cap gave out. Once replaced it was sorted
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Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
That'll teach ya for buying a turbo!
Seriously though, any help with anything, post up, I only live down in Oldham and have a few jap scrappers near me....
Josh
Seriously though, any help with anything, post up, I only live down in Oldham and have a few jap scrappers near me....
Josh
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
Oh FFS
listen to Jay and waste a pile of cash
still got the same problem (though this is the first particularly damp day since new parts)
died on me sevaral times on the way home from work this morning and ran like a reet duffer, luckily started this time though and managed to limp home
i didnt actually remember to check if there was a seal on the cap when i fitted the new one, should i take it off and check? there should have been one with being mrt parts, right?
what if there isnt but should have been? there not going to swap it now with being used are they? (just had a look and no seal on the old one i took of either)
will i be able to get just the seal if they wont swap it?
on a side note, dont know if the problems are related but when i got in the car this morning after work, the clock had somehow reset itself at some point during the night as if the battery had been disconected:?: wierd. I did check the terminals last time i had the problems (when i had to jump it) and are secure
this has happened previously but not exactly sure when in relation to my last bowt of problems.
listen to Jay and waste a pile of cash
still got the same problem (though this is the first particularly damp day since new parts)
died on me sevaral times on the way home from work this morning and ran like a reet duffer, luckily started this time though and managed to limp home
i didnt actually remember to check if there was a seal on the cap when i fitted the new one, should i take it off and check? there should have been one with being mrt parts, right?
what if there isnt but should have been? there not going to swap it now with being used are they? (just had a look and no seal on the old one i took of either)
will i be able to get just the seal if they wont swap it?
on a side note, dont know if the problems are related but when i got in the car this morning after work, the clock had somehow reset itself at some point during the night as if the battery had been disconected:?: wierd. I did check the terminals last time i had the problems (when i had to jump it) and are secure
this has happened previously but not exactly sure when in relation to my last bowt of problems.
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
I had the same problem with my tubby so I replaced the two temp senders, the plugs, distributor cap and rotor arm which helped but didn't cure the problem. Through trial and error I eventually found out that it was water getting into the engine compartment through the engine lid vents and having a detrimental effect on the engine, ie it ran really badly until it was full warmed up, i.e. it had dried out. I would recommend you completely dry out the engine, spray everything really well with wd40 or silicone spray, clear any error codes, and whenever it rains or looks like it's going to rain cover the engine vent (on my car it's the vent on the left looking from the rear which lets in the water) or put a plastic sheet over the engine itself, you'd be amazed how much rain gets into the engine compartment. Hope this helps.
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
the problem persists, wouldnt start for work again today so had to take the cavalier, bloody good job i havent sold it yet.
thanks alan but i've already replaced those parts apart from the temp senders
covering the engine when it rains isnt exactly an ideal solution though, if it works for you thats great but there are many people on here that run fine when its raining
alan mc wrote:I had the same problem with my tubby so I replaced the two temp senders, the plugs, distributor cap and rotor arm which helped but didn't cure the problem. Through trial and error I eventually found out that it was water getting into the engine compartment through the engine lid vents and having a detrimental effect on the engine, ie it ran really badly until it was full warmed up, i.e. it had dried out. I would recommend you completely dry out the engine, spray everything really well with wd40 or silicone spray, clear any error codes, and whenever it rains or looks like it's going to rain cover the engine vent (on my car it's the vent on the left looking from the rear which lets in the water) or put a plastic sheet over the engine itself, you'd be amazed how much rain gets into the engine compartment. Hope this helps.
thanks alan but i've already replaced those parts apart from the temp senders
covering the engine when it rains isnt exactly an ideal solution though, if it works for you thats great but there are many people on here that run fine when its raining
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
Jay.
I can cut my car out when ever i want by just pulling a few hoses off at various places in the engine bay. you could have a air leak.
Check all connections near the fuse box in the bay and the two metal resistors at the top left of the bay, and connectors going to the coil.
Check all the earth points in the bay and check your battery connections
I dont have the rain shield fitted to my engine lid, my bay gets soaked with water and all my electrics get wet. She fires first time every time and never cuts out.
I can cut my car out when ever i want by just pulling a few hoses off at various places in the engine bay. you could have a air leak.
Check all connections near the fuse box in the bay and the two metal resistors at the top left of the bay, and connectors going to the coil.
Check all the earth points in the bay and check your battery connections
I dont have the rain shield fitted to my engine lid, my bay gets soaked with water and all my electrics get wet. She fires first time every time and never cuts out.
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
Hellboy wrote:Jay.
I can cut my car out when ever i want by just pulling a few hoses off at various places in the engine bay. you could have a air leak.
Check all connections near the fuse box in the bay and the two metal resistors at the top left of the bay, and connectors going to the coil.
Check all the earth points in the bay and check your battery connections
I dont have the rain shield fitted to my engine lid, my bay gets soaked with water and all my electrics get wet. She fires first time every time and never cuts out.
i'm convinced its just electrical and not a hose/leak related problem as it only happens when it rains, i'll be checking if there is a seal on the new cap i fitted at first light and will report back
cheers
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
Sorry if I wasn't clear but I meant cover the engine with something to prevent rain getting over the engine only when the car is not being driven, as you say it worked for me
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
ok, had a look - no seal on the new cap - can anyone confirm 100% that there should have been a seal on it when i bought from mrt?
cheers
Jay
cheers
Jay
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
Sorry to hear the problems.
Can't comment on the seal I'm afraid but is it possible that a fuse may have gone? Just a thought?
One other thing, jump starting is never a particularly good idea due to the sudden surge of current. If your battery in unchargeable, its probably best to buy a new one??
Can't comment on the seal I'm afraid but is it possible that a fuse may have gone? Just a thought?
One other thing, jump starting is never a particularly good idea due to the sudden surge of current. If your battery in unchargeable, its probably best to buy a new one??
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
alan mc wrote:I had the same problem with my tubby so I replaced the two temp senders, the plugs, distributor cap and rotor arm which helped but didn't cure the problem. Through trial and error I eventually found out that it was water getting into the engine compartment through the engine lid vents and having a detrimental effect on the engine, ie it ran really badly until it was full warmed up, i.e. it had dried out. I would recommend you completely dry out the engine, spray everything really well with wd40 or silicone spray, clear any error codes, and whenever it rains or looks like it's going to rain cover the engine vent (on my car it's the vent on the left looking from the rear which lets in the water) or put a plastic sheet over the engine itself, you'd be amazed how much rain gets into the engine compartment. Hope this helps.
Hmmm, Alan, what air filter do you have?
I would like to suggest that its the air filter getting saturated when it rains, and only dries out after the engine warms as you say. A wet filter would cause the problems you describe, and the filter is on the side you're having problems with.
The Apexi filter has a metal 'hood' that goes over it to reflect heat away from the filter/air entering the filter. But it also serves as a great umbrella for the filter.
Just a thought.
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
Leeroy wrote:Sorry to hear the problems.
Can't comment on the seal I'm afraid but is it possible that a fuse may have gone? Just a thought?
One other thing, jump starting is never a particularly good idea due to the sudden surge of current. If your battery in unchargeable, its probably best to buy a new one??
no one seems to know the answer to that one but i have the part number anyway so will order a new seal tommorow. Dont have a battery charger but i dont think i'll need to jump it again, pointing DOWN the hill this time
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
no seal for me today
nobodys open
nobodys open
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
quigonjay wrote:ok, had a look - no seal on the new cap - can anyone confirm 100% that there should have been a seal on it when i bought from mrt?
cheers
Jay
Jay, sounds to me like you've got a HT problem as the car runs fine when its dry, but not when its damp.
The rubber seal for the HT caps is a separate item - it should only be just over £1.
I'd check:
Take the car somewhere really dark, and with the engine running open the engine bay. Look for blue sparks on HT leads, around the coil and anywhere else - this would be leaking HT voltage. If you see any, replace the parts it is leaking from.
- HT Leads - make sure they're pushed home onto the cap and the spark plugs ends. Aftermarket HT leads can pop off. MrT HT Leads should have a year of manufacture on them - I'd replace them once they're 5-8 year old.
- Spark plugs. Pick up a new set of NGK BKR7E's, NGK Stock #:6097 - mt local NGK distributor does them for £1.68ea. They should be gapped to 1.1mm
HTH!
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
BenF wrote:quigonjay wrote:ok, had a look - no seal on the new cap - can anyone confirm 100% that there should have been a seal on it when i bought from mrt?
cheers
Jay
Jay, sounds to me like you've got a HT problem as the car runs fine when its dry, but not when its damp.
The rubber seal for the HT caps is a separate item - it should only be just over £1.
I'd check:
Take the car somewhere really dark, and with the engine running open the engine bay. Look for blue sparks on HT leads, around the coil and anywhere else - this would be leaking HT voltage. If you see any, replace the parts it is leaking from.
- HT Leads - make sure they're pushed home onto the cap and the spark plugs ends. Aftermarket HT leads can pop off. MrT HT Leads should have a year of manufacture on them - I'd replace them once they're 5-8 year old.
- Spark plugs. Pick up a new set of NGK BKR7E's, NGK Stock #:6097 - mt local NGK distributor does them for £1.68ea. They should be gapped to 1.1mm
HTH!
got some plugs on order from gts chris - just replaced cap/arm and leads with Mrt items
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
OK, hope they sort it.
HT problem
Hi Jay
Right...... I've had my Tubby 2 years now and its the most reliable and fun car I've ever owned. HOWEVER.... I've had exactly the same problems you describe and after 2 bloody years of trying everything I have it (on my car anyway) tracked down.
The problem for me is water ingress into the COIL / HT lEAD. All I have to do when the car wont start is pull off (ahem) the HT Lead, dry the end thoroughly, dry inside the coil connection, put it back on and it starts immediately.
I have taken to smearing the connection with vaseline but this only lasts temporarily.
I love my car and have no intention of selling it though when it dies on you in pouring rain as your overtaking on the motorway it can be very scary.
Right...... I've had my Tubby 2 years now and its the most reliable and fun car I've ever owned. HOWEVER.... I've had exactly the same problems you describe and after 2 bloody years of trying everything I have it (on my car anyway) tracked down.
The problem for me is water ingress into the COIL / HT lEAD. All I have to do when the car wont start is pull off (ahem) the HT Lead, dry the end thoroughly, dry inside the coil connection, put it back on and it starts immediately.
I have taken to smearing the connection with vaseline but this only lasts temporarily.
I love my car and have no intention of selling it though when it dies on you in pouring rain as your overtaking on the motorway it can be very scary.
Re: [Mk2 Turbo] dam car wont start
Gileon, can't you use the spray stuff that's thicker than WD40 that disperses the water, that should sort it much better than vaseline.......?