Knock Sensor

blogsy · Post by **blogsy** » Thu Oct 06, 2016 6:10 pm

What would trigger a Knock sensor on a turbo engine.

jon · Post by **jon** » Thu Oct 06, 2016 9:13 pm

blogsy wrote:What would trigger a Knock sensor on a turbo engine.

Do you mean knock sensor error 52? That happens when the knock sensor is broken, the wiring or ECU is faulty.

androo007 · Post by **androo007** » Thu Oct 06, 2016 10:11 pm

Excessive knock blowing the sensor.

blogsy · Post by **blogsy** » Fri Oct 07, 2016 6:47 am

I meant what sort of things could make it Knock, Like inlet temps to hot or fuel leaning out.

tottacrolla · Post by **tottacrolla** » Fri Oct 07, 2016 9:55 am

Bad fuel (lower octane) I would expect the ecu to reduce the ignition advance and possibly richen the AFR in an attempt to reduce knock. How did you discover it was knocking ?
There are lots of ways a knock sensor could be triggered but I would start by eliminating the fuel. Reset the ecu and fill with 98+ petrol.

Nic · Post by **Nic** » Fri Oct 07, 2016 2:28 pm

My knock sensor blew when the boost spiked and I hit fuel cut.

blogsy · Post by **blogsy** » Fri Oct 07, 2016 8:26 pm

tottacrolla wrote:Bad fuel (lower octane) I would expect the ecu to reduce the ignition advance and possibly richen the AFR in an attempt to reduce knock. How did you discover it was knocking ?
There are lots of ways a knock sensor could be triggered but I would start by eliminating the fuel. Reset the ecu and fill with 98+ petrol.

The car's a Rev3 turbo which is all standard apart from an ST205 charge cooler and a big twin pass pre-rad which I had made by Pro Alloy. It's got a Walbro fuel pump, a Berk dacat free flow exhaust and a BMC carbon dynamics air filter. I took the car to get an apex avcr boost controller and power fc fitted and mapped but it would't make any power, it just kept hitting knock. The inlet temps and the fuel supply were good and not a problem and the guy set the base ignition before he started. It only made about 250 flywheel horse power. I'm going back on Wednesday with a new knock sensor and new fuel.

blogsy · Post by **blogsy** » Fri Oct 07, 2016 8:44 pm

tottacrolla wrote:Bad fuel (lower octane) I would expect the ecu to reduce the ignition advance and possibly richen the AFR in an attempt to reduce knock. How did you discover it was knocking ?
There are lots of ways a knock sensor could be triggered but I would start by eliminating the fuel. Reset the ecu and fill with 98+ petrol.

The car's a Rev3 turbo which is all standard apart from an ST205 charge cooler and a big twin pass pre-rad which I had made by Pro Alloy. It's got a Walbro fuel pump, a Berk dacat free flow exhaust and a BMC carbon dynamics air filter. I took the car to get an apex avcr boost controller and power fc fitted and mapped but it would't make any power, it just kept hitting knock. The inlet temps and the fuel supply were good and not a problem and the guy set the base ignition before he started. It only made about 250 flywheel horse power. I'm going back on Wednesday with a new knock sensor and new fuel.

blogsy · Post by **blogsy** » Fri Oct 07, 2016 8:44 pm

tottacrolla wrote:Bad fuel (lower octane) I would expect the ecu to reduce the ignition advance and possibly richen the AFR in an attempt to reduce knock. How did you discover it was knocking ?
There are lots of ways a knock sensor could be triggered but I would start by eliminating the fuel. Reset the ecu and fill with 98+ petrol.

The car's a Rev3 turbo which is all standard apart from an ST205 charge cooler and a big twin pass pre-rad which I had made by Pro Alloy. It's got a Walbro fuel pump, a Berk dacat free flow exhaust and a BMC carbon dynamics air filter. I took the car to get an apex avcr boost controller and power fc fitted and mapped but it would't make any power, it just kept hitting knock. The inlet temps and the fuel supply were good and not a problem and the guy set the base ignition before he started. It only made about 250 flywheel horse power. I'm going back on Wednesday with a new knock sensor and new fuel.

tottacrolla · Post by **tottacrolla** » Sat Oct 08, 2016 3:58 pm

Which knock sensor are you using ?

blogsy · Post by **blogsy** » Sat Oct 08, 2016 5:37 pm

I don't know what knock sensor was in it but I'v just replaced it with a £50 oem one from TCB. Do people use other sensors when using standalone ecus.

blogsy · Post by **blogsy** » Sat Oct 08, 2016 5:39 pm

I don't know what knock sensor was in it but I'v just replaced it with a £50 oem one from TCB. Do people use other sensors when using standalone ecus.

kirk · Post by **kirk** » Sat Oct 08, 2016 6:20 pm

blogsy wrote:ST205 charge cooler and a big twin pass pre-rad which I had made by Pro Alloy.

Off topic slightly but do you have any pictures of this? Been considering them for a custom setup.

blogsy · Post by **blogsy** » Sat Oct 08, 2016 6:41 pm

Not really got any pictures but you can see st205 coolers on mr2s on Google. As for the pre rad, give pro alloy a call with your measurements and they'll make you a better one than anything you can get on Ebay. Mine cost £300

http://www.proalloy.co.uk

tottacrolla · Post by **tottacrolla** » Sat Oct 08, 2016 6:43 pm

blogsy wrote:I don't know what knock sensor was in it but I'v just replaced it with a £50 oem one from TCB. Do people use other sensors when using standalone ecus.

I would use only the sensor designed for the engine and have the ecu set up properly to use it.

kirk · Post by **kirk** » Sat Oct 08, 2016 6:55 pm

blogsy wrote:Not really got any pictures but you can see st205 coolers on mr2s on Google. As for the pre rad, give pro alloy a call with your measurements and they'll make you a better one than anything you can get on Ebay. Mine cost £300

http://www.proalloy.co.uk

I was actually talking about your pre rad.

androo007 · Post by **androo007** » Sun Oct 09, 2016 8:50 am

1. Don't use pattern parts - they often do the work properly. Especially knock sensor

2. Have you got the error code 52 for knock sensor?

3. Have you checked the boost controller is wired up correctly

4. Have you checked there are no air leaks in the system

5. Make sure fresh fuel

6. Picture of prerad for kirk

blogsy · Post by **blogsy** » Tue Oct 11, 2016 7:25 pm

Been doing a bit of research as to why I'm hitting knock when I shouldn't be and I found this. It's from MR2OC USA by a guy called Ryan.B back in 2007.

"The knock detection part of the powerfc i like and dislike. On some cars the detection works brilliant and as soon as i hear a slight bit of pinking on the detcans it shows it on the ecu.

BUT

On some car i will be seeing reading of like 60+ when there is not even a tweak of det.

The thing you have to remember is that the knock sensors are tuned to freq, around 6hz on a 3sgte and any noise in the engine that creates that freq will flag up on the knock readings, this is called ghost knock. Gearboxs are renoud to cause it espically on changing gear.

The only way your gunna know if its actually det is getting someone with a set of det cans to listen and tell you.

My advise to you is to take it somewhere to be mapped they will then tell you what problems you have if any.

There are a number of things that effect the knock reading. Loose sensor, Corroded wire, faulty sensor, noisey gearbox or engine etc

Ryan"

Back on the rollers tomorrow, hopefully with this in mind will see better results.

www.imoc.co.uk

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