I need to remove the lip that folds inside the wheel arch on the rear so as my wheels can sit flush without scraping it, i intend to either roll the arch or grind off this inner lip. Will i need to modify the side strips (the one with twin cam 16 turbo logo written on it and the one that runs along the rear bumper) as these have a fixing point on the inside of the arch? or don't i need to alter this part of the arch lip?
Sorry this sounds confusing, i cannot think of a decent way to explain what i mean! i can get pics if needed.
thanks.
Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
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Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
You just need an arch roller mate, no need to modify the rear side strips.
Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
Hmm, but wont the tyre still rub at the side strip attach on the inner lip?
look at this pic, its the only side on pic i had so it had to do.
The green area is the only area where the inner rim/lip can be rolled up. the red areas indicate where the side strips fold in to mount on the inner lip. Surely just rolling the green section inner lip would not be enough for the tyre to clear?
Also, i can get hold of a arch roller however the garage that owns it tells me its 'use at own risk' as its very easy to mess your arch up with it. they say that, although they know how to use it, they still wouldn't take it to there own cars! I have been advised just to grind the lip off...
look at this pic, its the only side on pic i had so it had to do.
The green area is the only area where the inner rim/lip can be rolled up. the red areas indicate where the side strips fold in to mount on the inner lip. Surely just rolling the green section inner lip would not be enough for the tyre to clear?
Also, i can get hold of a arch roller however the garage that owns it tells me its 'use at own risk' as its very easy to mess your arch up with it. they say that, although they know how to use it, they still wouldn't take it to there own cars! I have been advised just to grind the lip off...
Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
did mine myself - just heat the paint gently with a heatgun before rolling.
Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
Suppose it also depends on wheel size/width/offset and tyre size used.
I only needed to roll the lip on mine, not make adjustments to where the side strips screw into the arch.
As said above, the arch needs to be heated gently before rolling.
I only needed to roll the lip on mine, not make adjustments to where the side strips screw into the arch.
As said above, the arch needs to be heated gently before rolling.
Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
Ok ill just give that a go then. What size wheels are you using? Im on 17's and will be using a 255/40 with a 5mm spacer.
Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
RyanRs wrote:Ok ill just give that a go then. What size wheels are you using? Im on 17's and will be using a 255/40 with a 5mm spacer.
Car is lowered on Apex springs running rear wheels 9x17 ET35 with a 255/40/17 Tyre.
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Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
RedMR² wrote:
Car is lowered on Apex springs running rear wheels 9x17 ET35 with a 255/40/17 Tyre.
apart from lowered springs (does sagging old OEM springs count? ) I'm the same, lips rolled and no rubbing
Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
allan welsh wrote:RedMR² wrote:
Car is lowered on Apex springs running rear wheels 9x17 ET35 with a 255/40/17 Tyre.
apart from lowered springs (does sagging old OEM springs count? ) I'm the same, lips rolled and no rubbing
Lol, i guess that would count even more! old sagging springs = lots more movement & travel.
I should be fine then as im on 255/40/17 with Tein Type Flex, stiff as a........ yea stiff lol.
Thanks for the help
Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
The arches can also be flared to give extra clearance but it will stretch the panel and there are limitations.
A company called Arch Enemy have been recommended by several members and will come to you to do the work. Details and pics here http://www.archenemy.co.uk/?page_id=35#Toyota
A company called Arch Enemy have been recommended by several members and will come to you to do the work. Details and pics here http://www.archenemy.co.uk/?page_id=35#Toyota
Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
for the price some of the people charge, you could buy a decent arch roller.
Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
mark239 wrote:for the price some of the people charge, you could buy a decent arch roller.
I agree you can even hire them for around £25 a day, easy to use as well. The only issue is if you want to flare the panels it takes experience to get it right first time. Other than that rolling the arches is simple and low risk.
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Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
I've had a lot of arhes rolled on many of my cars, biggest problem to raise it's ugly head has been the rust a yea or two later.
I am about to get the lip cut away and the arches pulled out as much as is safe.
Yes I know this reduces rigidity but at least you can have a better go at rust proofing and and sealing them I suppose.
I am hoping to fit 25 mm hubcentrics on the rear for some seriously wide boots.
I am about to get the lip cut away and the arches pulled out as much as is safe.
Yes I know this reduces rigidity but at least you can have a better go at rust proofing and and sealing them I suppose.
I am hoping to fit 25 mm hubcentrics on the rear for some seriously wide boots.
Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
The other option is a rubber mallet and heat gun. Heat the arch up and then flatten the lip inside the arch. Did my last car like that, it had 17x8.5 +30 with 245/40 on the rear. Took about 10 minutes.
Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
BALDYMONSTER wrote:I've had a lot of arhes rolled on many of my cars, biggest problem to raise it's ugly head has been the rust a yea or two later.
I am about to get the lip cut away and the arches pulled out as much as is safe.
Yes I know this reduces rigidity but at least you can have a better go at rust proofing and and sealing them I suppose.
I am hoping to fit 25 mm hubcentrics on the rear for some seriously wide boots.
I hope you're getting the two skins welded back together after you cut the lip off!
EX MR2 owner, currently on a '00 Honda CBR600 Follow me on Instagram @c35rob
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Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
All will be properly welded and sealed.
Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
BALDYMONSTER wrote:I've had a lot of arhes rolled on many of my cars, biggest problem to raise it's ugly head has been the rust a yea or two later.
I am about to get the lip cut away and the arches pulled out as much as is safe.
Yes I know this reduces rigidity but at least you can have a better go at rust proofing and and sealing them I suppose.
I am hoping to fit 25 mm hubcentrics on the rear for some seriously wide boots.
I cut mine away .. then much primer and paint ... 5 years on and still perfect no rust bubbling ... see my garage slammed it low 245 and 33 off set 9jj
Re: Question about Arch rolling / cutting...
If you are going to use 25mm spacers I can't see you getting any wider than 9.5j if you could even get that wide..
9.5j is about the max you can get without rolling/pulling, so if you want wider wheels than 9.5j I'd avoid spacers
9.5j is about the max you can get without rolling/pulling, so if you want wider wheels than 9.5j I'd avoid spacers
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