first some mods to my car:
hks exhaust 3" down pipe stage 3 fensport ct26 hybrid turbo greddy copy intercooler spal fan, standard rev 2 cast manifold with tial 38mm v band external wastegate. blitz dsbc spec r boost controller
ok so, long story short ive just got it mot'd and insured after removing the 4 branch manifold and fitting an EWG standard manifold. took it for a drive today and it takes to 5k rpm in 2nd gear to reach full boost (1bar) where as before the work it was more like 2.6-3k rpm and a kick in the back!
i dont know if it could be the internal gate opening and letting the boost through, or ive not set the boost controller right (i think i have) or the piping is wrong from the boost solenoid to the EWG. or it could be that the 4 branch manifold was just so much more flowed than the standard one with ewg holes in it???
suggestions please?
help please.... sluggish car after work
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Re: help please.... sluggish car after work
by cutting a hole in your manifold like that you have lost the twin scroll effect of your manifold, this will negatively effect spool, but certainly shouldn't be by that much
what spring do you have in your wastegate?
is it a genuine wastegate or a ebay copy?
how have you got the boost controller plumbed in?
what spring do you have in your wastegate?
is it a genuine wastegate or a ebay copy?
how have you got the boost controller plumbed in?
EX MR2 owner, currently on a '00 Honda CBR600 Follow me on Instagram @c35rob
Re: help please.... sluggish car after work
you need to try it with both wastgates held shut .one is opening too soon or leaking. try blocking the acctuator pipes with a bolt to see if it makes a difference. I had one with a sticking open wastegate and it would make full boost at about 6000 revs but with loads of lag.
Re: help please.... sluggish car after work
I think it's a genuine tial, but I did buy it off someone on eBay, but they sold me it as a genuine, it looks genuine... If it's a copy it's a very good copy. The spring rating is 0.9bar.
I've got the EWG plumbed in the way it says in my blitz dsbc manual. Currently I've tried changing it back to the original actuator, with the EWG just on spring pressure. With no improvement... I'm going to block the EWG and see what happens just using the original, that should tell me if it's the new EWG that's cracking open. If not I don't know what to do!
I've got the EWG plumbed in the way it says in my blitz dsbc manual. Currently I've tried changing it back to the original actuator, with the EWG just on spring pressure. With no improvement... I'm going to block the EWG and see what happens just using the original, that should tell me if it's the new EWG that's cracking open. If not I don't know what to do!
Re: help please.... sluggish car after work
Ok so I blocked the end of the EWG dump tube. No change.
Have worked the original actuator with a compressor and a pry bar on the rod and it clicked back into place! so I've welded a bit of steel onto the actuator rod to the housing, rough I know but I wanted to be sure it wouldn't move! And its worked... Ive yet to plumb the EWG back into the boost controller but it was building boost by 3k rpm in the short drive I took it.
Have worked the original actuator with a compressor and a pry bar on the rod and it clicked back into place! so I've welded a bit of steel onto the actuator rod to the housing, rough I know but I wanted to be sure it wouldn't move! And its worked... Ive yet to plumb the EWG back into the boost controller but it was building boost by 3k rpm in the short drive I took it.