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Rob - East Coast Imports wrote:
m10x1.25
Rob - East Coast Imports wrote:standard sensor is M16x1.5, the triumph sensor is M10x1.25
I'd be interested to see how the person that mapped your PFC has set it up to respond to air temp readings, particularly the IGN vs air temp, as the base map isn't set to start pulling timing till 60 degrees(I've set mine lower.
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jimGTS wrote:bare in mind, this sensor is called a MAT sensor
a manifold air temperature sensor.
I'm sure theres a very good reason why toyota installed it where they did, as thats the temperature entering the ENGINE.
not the temp inside an intercooler pipe.
jimGTS wrote:if the car is stood still, it will heatsoak, there is nothing you can do about this and you want this to read correctly.
tiff_lee wrote:jimGTS wrote:bare in mind, this sensor is called a MAT sensor
a manifold air temperature sensor.
I'm sure theres a very good reason why toyota installed it where they did, as thats the temperature entering the ENGINE.
not the temp inside an intercooler pipe.
Come on mate as if the sensor being being a few inches away from the stock location would really make any real world difference in the temperature being reported back to the ECU.![]()
After all you
(as in the anyone looking to do so) are already using a sensor designed for and fitted in another engine and there seems to be no major concerns about that.
The old Toyota did this for a reason argument could be applied to anything on the car, why fit after market parts/upgrades etc when Toyota fitted all the stock parts for a reason.
This replacement sensor is a good example in itself.Why did Toyota completely enclose the thermistor, why did they make it longer, why did they fit one which is slow to respond? With that last point I wonder was it a case of the technology simply not being available at the time or was it for some unknown reason to deliberately produce a smoother output as shown in the graph/image you linked? although feck knows why someone would intentionally want that in this application so I dare say it wasn't deliberate but then still it's how they designed it.
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jimGTS wrote:if the car is stood still, it will heatsoak, there is nothing you can do about this and you want this to read correctly.
That's the precise reason to do something about it, if the sensor is heatsoaked it won't be reading correctly.
With that said getting away from the heatsoak issue will be pretty hard, more of a case of reducing its effect.Even with something like this
there is still going to be a degree of heat soak(ooh rubbish pun?) as you have a sensor encased in brass screwed into aluminium bolted to the manifold, perhaps if it was on the other side of the silicone joiner it would be better insulated from the heatsoak effect of the manifold I dunno but then who has that much space to mount one there
(depends on setup).
I did try to find some technical data on that triumph/sagem sensor but no luck apart from this thread
http://irishrotary.com/forum/index.php? ... nsor-riat/
which quotes the fenne development ad from ebay and provides some resistance values.
Just so others can see at a glance I crudely extrapolated those values onto the resistance/temp graph for a Toyota manifold temp sensor and it looks like this
Which as you rightly said Jim(in one of your older threads I think I read it) that the resistance values are
'acceptable' iaw with the BGB.
Rob - East Coast Imports wrote:why not just use a M10x1.25 nut Martin, as it's the right thread for the triumph sensor?or are you planning on doing some back to back tests with the standard sensor?
if you can't find one, any engineering place could spin you up a threaded boss, failing that you can drill and tap a piece of ali bar stock quite easily at home
Lee:the cold start injector thing is a rev1/2 and ST185 thing
- they ran mass flow management, when people upgrade them to rev 3+
(speed density) management you ditch the cold start injector and use it's redundant position to mount an AIT sensor
Martin F wrote:Rob - East Coast Imports wrote:why not just use a M10x1.25 nut Martin, as it's the right thread for the triumph sensor?or are you planning on doing some back to back tests with the standard sensor?
if you can't find one, any engineering place could spin you up a threaded boss, failing that you can drill and tap a piece of ali bar stock quite easily at home
Lee:the cold start injector thing is a rev1/2 and ST185 thing
- they ran mass flow management, when people upgrade them to rev 3+
(speed density) management you ditch the cold start injector and use it's redundant position to mount an AIT sensor
I could use the one that came with the sensor, pretty sure it is aluminum, however Peter used thread lock and I don't want to force it from the Rait sensor..
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I have aluminum here, think I will just drill it and then thread it, what size of bit do I need buy? or maybe i'll just say i'm looking for a bit that will make a m16 x 1.5 thread
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Rob - East Coast Imports wrote:Martin F wrote:Rob - East Coast Imports wrote:why not just use a M10x1.25 nut Martin, as it's the right thread for the triumph sensor?or are you planning on doing some back to back tests with the standard sensor?
if you can't find one, any engineering place could spin you up a threaded boss, failing that you can drill and tap a piece of ali bar stock quite easily at home
Lee:the cold start injector thing is a rev1/2 and ST185 thing
- they ran mass flow management, when people upgrade them to rev 3+
(speed density) management you ditch the cold start injector and use it's redundant position to mount an AIT sensor
I could use the one that came with the sensor, pretty sure it is aluminum, however Peter used thread lock and I don't want to force it from the Rait sensor..
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I have aluminum here, think I will just drill it and then thread it, what size of bit do I need buy? or maybe i'll just say i'm looking for a bit that will make a m16 x 1.5 thread
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your adapter is brass, same as mine- I expect peter made it the same as I did by drilling and tapping the brass blank I linked to on eBay.
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the tapping drill size for M16 is 14mm![]()
ashley wrote:For M16 x 1.5 you'll do better with a 14.5mm drill, 14mm will make it difficult to run a tap through in my experience.
If you want an adapter made up drop me a pm, I can do it on the lathe for you![]()
ashley wrote:Will do mate, how big do you want the outer diameter?
Chumbaside wrote:Hi Ashley,
Just wondering when you'll be able to send my adaptor?
Cheers,
Mark