The Mule

[Martin F]

What size boost pipe are you needing? I have all mine here but would gladly send you one one loan for now. I have a reducer as well, 3" to 2". Let me know

I received the two pipes i needed this morning, a 3" I.D. straight and a 51mm > 76mm reducer.
The straight was correct but the morons have sent me a 51mm > 71mm reducer again

seriously lost for words, i originally paid on 13 july for this

Not just that, but they pay for return postage so obviously don't know how to run a business, i'll just wait Ryan, thanks for the offer but due to the clutch i am in no rush....

[2mad]

What with the clutch mate .. nothing to serious i hope

[Martin F]

What with the clutch mate .. nothing to serious i hope

It has only happened twice, basically if i am full throttle in 2nd or third, go up a gear and go full throttle again it instantly goes up to 7k revs.
It however holds fine if i accelerate full throttle in 4th from a low speed. I have lowered the boost and it is running fine for now, clutch plate(s) are obviously a bit worn.
When i took the car out for a test drive i noticed the clutch was very high so was expecting this sooner or later, plan on dropping the box once the weather turns, and if a twin plate is in there i will buy new plates, if not i will just buy a new clutch....

[2mad]

Bad times buddy but thats alot of power its trying to put down to the road .. hope you get a way with just replacing the plates.

[Martin F]

Still waiting for the correct sized reducer to be sent from ebay, (4 weeks and 3 days waiting so far), when received i have decided to fit the new chargecooler core now.

I also got a new intake temp sensor from Peter Gidden @ Sbits,



He also made a brass adapter for fitting,





In my quest to lower intake temps i have also decided to ditch the huge filter in the engine bay, even though the engine bay temps are excellent, (thanks to the lid) you can tell that it is sucking in hot air from the engine bay.

I have a Blitz SUS filter (at around £250 it's a heavy weight when it comes to air filters) and lots of 3" pipes so i am going to route the filter so it almost protrudes out the side intake. As the car only really gets driven in the dry i am confident this will go along way to helping temps out.

As you can imagine, with some extra pipes the blitz will be right out of the engine bay heat zone compared to the filter already in the car






I think i am going to risk putting the car on the dyno before i change the clutch. She holds 1.65 bar in a high gear no problem, if it does let go then it will be a couple of hundred wasted, worth the gamble for someone with little patience

[matt-mr2]

Glad the mules back on IMOC your doing a great job with it Martin

[CRAIGROBBO]

Good updates Martin,

I also revised the same Air Intake Sensors from Peter

Cheers Craig

[Martin F]

Good updates Martin,

I also revised the same Air Intake Sensors from Peter

Cheers Craig

How are you finding the working of your sensor ?

Final piece of the chargecooler Jigsaw arrived today







Just need to weld in the BOV adapter and weld in the valve i bought to drain any excess air from the core. Also build a bracket to hold the core in place, no biggie, then fit it

I don't suppose it matters which way round the water pipes are attached, i think i am going with the cold water going into the left pipe (outlet from chargecooler) and exiting from the air intake side, works best in my head, not by much though, lol

Quick mock fit, mainly to figure out where to put the mounting bolts and to make sure it all fits, everything went swimmingly, even cleaned the rear window









I am not sure what to do with the airfilter though, the blitz is only 3" in diameter while the older k and n is 4".
I would be placing the blitz as far down towards the air intake hole in the cars body and maybe using some 3" s/s pipe and then a 4" to 3" reducer to connect it all up.
Will this be ok for my power goals and 1.8 bar of boost ?




and this is the current k and n filter



closed end while the blitz is capable off pulling in loads of air from the end...

And my latest purchase, although smaller than i anticipated it actually works really well, an IMOC protector...



Could always buy an Arc box but i don't think that will be necessary

Thoughts on reducing the air filter intake size ????

[Magic Beans]

Thoughts on reducing the air filter intake size ????

I wouldn't, personally.

My plan was to extend the existing pipe, pushing it as close to the vent as possible. I'd also started mocking up a heatshield for it too, to reduce the possibility of pulling hot air from the engine side of the bay.

[Ryan S]

Looking great mate!! I am soooo tempted to just buy that engine cover!! Having the core mounted up there looks fantastic!!

[Martin F]

Thoughts on reducing the air filter intake size ????

I wouldn't, personally.

My plan was to extend the existing pipe, pushing it as close to the vent as possible. I'd also started mocking up a heatshield for it too, to reduce the possibility of pulling hot air from the engine side of the bay.

i have done some research and it would appear that it will be fine for my goals and much more, i have bought a 4" to 3" reducer to try it out, if while mapping it becomes a bottleneck it will take all of 2 minutes to swap it back.

i have had to reduce the boost to 1.4 bar because of the clutch, so i see little point in booking the dyno until it is replaced


what is it with me and clutches, that is the last 3 mr2s i have bought all needing a clutch change within 500-1000 miles, least when it's fixed i won't have to worry about it i guess

[Martin F]

Looking great mate!! I am soooo tempted to just buy that engine cover!! Having the core mounted up there looks fantastic!!

It is great for reducing engine temps, the standard lid is just like an oven door

[Martin F]

Thoughts on reducing the air filter intake size ????

I wouldn't, personally.

My plan was to extend the existing pipe, pushing it as close to the vent as possible. I'd also started mocking up a heatshield for it too, to reduce the possibility of pulling hot air from the engine side of the bay.

Ok, After some thought I decided to Heed your advice, unfortunately I had to wait for 3 weeks for the 4" aluminum pipe to arrive
Cost me around £60 to move the airfilter a bit nearer the side intake, not much in the greater scheme of things...

This held the whole chargecooler fitting back somewhat, it arrived yesterday, today I cut up the old k and n filter as to weld the pipe to the Blitz was problematic, especially as I didn't know what length it needed to be.
Job is not great but it works....

this is the silicone reducer I bought against the 4" pipe





It is quite a large difference Tbf

4" next to a 3"



What's left of the original filter



And my handywork







And this is how she will fit, (had to order some 114mm jubilee clips and an epoxy bond to hold the k and n rubber mount inside the Blitz filter), will fit next weekend and hopefully get the chargecooler plumbed in and tested at the same time.(weather permitting).



The core needs some welding done including new mounting brackets, I will post a few pictures once the chargecooler is fitted and then my next updates will be with a new dyno printout (clutch permitting)

[Martin F]

Only posting as the "mule" is nearing the end of her journey, ie. next dyno run / mapping session will be the one that she stays on (as long as nothing breaks)... With that in mind I might as well post pics while I can...

Picked up the chargecooler core and dumpvalve pipe from the welders yesterday, Boss wasn't in but another member of staff said I can take it away and square them up Friday (bet you wouldn't get an offer like that in London )

side mounting bracket welded in place, one on the other side also.



front cleaned up and two bleed valves installed (I had to drill the center out to allow more air to pass, they only need to be pressed, £2 from china, £8 from uk, went for the cheaper option(one bottom left and the other top right of the water jacket)).



I decided to stick with the standard dump valve going straight to atmosphere







So had the standard mount welded to the turbo outlet pipe. Weather looking good for tomorrow so will be fitting it then, will post pics and results then

[Martin F]

And for talking sake I have the following results since fitting the new intake temp sensor to compare against my new set up...

Cruising around the radtec is aprox 18-22 degrees centigrade above ambient, ie. it is 15 degrees centigrade air temp outside. , the power fc readings would be around 37 degrees with some small bursts of hard acceleration.

If the car is stuck in traffic then the temp can go 35 degrees above ambient which shows the radiator would maybe benefit from a set of fans...

[Martin F]

Got stuck into this today, still waiting on the two 114mm jubilee clips for the air filter

Buying things online are always late if needed, if not here by Monday I will source them locally as they are holding up the install.

I used j b marine weld to hold and waterproof the air lock valves even though they were threaded and put a rubber mat on the bottom of the core to absorb contact with whatever it is against.
I spent £8 on a few bolts and paid £40 for the welding.

I moved the Mallory fuel regulator and also moved the coolant filler (as the core would be blocking it)
All in all the core and all the bi-products have cost roughly £480. I kept the pump, water lines, radtec radiator and swirl pot from the cars current spec.
I removed the radtec charge cooler and moved all the water lines into place for the new core.



looks cheap and nasty but it is the underside so nobody is going to see it.



core was up side down as the silicone hadn't cured, this was just to make sure the pipes etc. lined up ok.







I need to drill a couple of holes to mount the swirl pot above the core and a few more to hold the core in place.
The dumpvalve is not at the best angle but I have made a cover to put over the engine lid when parked up (will stop the rain getting into the engine bay), so a couple hours more work and I can take her for a drive to test the air temps difference between this and the radtec.

I can then book the car for some dyno time and look forward to the clutch slipping and coming home disappointed. Been there done that

Next pics will be the complete install up and running

[Martin F]

Looking great mate!! I am soooo tempted to just buy that engine cover!! Having the core mounted up there looks fantastic!!

How's things Dude, How's your dad ?

When looking at fitting a boot mount on my last mr2 I wanted to fit it different, however there was always someone out there with the same thought, pretty sure my current set up is fairly unique though, quite excited to see if it actually works / makes much of a difference

will update within the next week hopefully

[2mad]

Lovin the mules progression .. coming along nicely

[Martin F]

Ok, Got stuck into this today and happy to say the install is now complete

Air filter in place



And this is what you see looking into the passenger side vent



I see this as a very positive modification as before the air filter was pulling air from the engine bay, now it should be mostly fresh ambient air, pretty sure this will gain several extra bhp alone with the cars current set up.

Lots more air can now flow through the engine bay on the other side thanks to the removal of the radtec chargecooler, another positive...



Here is the home of the swirl pot, made a bracket and bolted it to the car.



I then drilled a few more holes and bolted the core onto the cars body.



Then tightened all the clamps up, connected the coolant pipes, filled it with lots of Halfords coolant.





As you can see, I am by no means a perfectionist, function over beauty works for me, anyway, it is all hidden away under the engine cover

I need to go to the pet shop before it closes but will post up my thoughts on how the car feels and what temps she is now seeing later on this evening

[2mad]

Beast and a half mate .. you must be so proud