Anyone have any knowlegde on the MK2 Automatic funtionality?

[arif_manji]

Hi Guys,

I have a 1996 Import with an automatic gearbox. Drives great with no issues with it.

The gearbox has two settings on ECT-S, MANU and PWR. I've Google'd what these both buttons do:

MAN - is low power, good fuel consumption
PWR - is hi power and bad fuel consumption

However, the PWR light is on all the time, its hard to see it as its so dim. Pressing the PWR turns the MANU light on the speedo and pressing MANU doesn't switch on any of the two lights.

Is there something wrong here?

Any advise would be appreciated

[Mullen]

Yeah that's not right.

As you suspect the manu/power buttons are supposed to engage the respective drives & light up on the dash.
It's not possible to have both buttons engaged at the same time & therefore only the corresponding light on the dash should be on/off.
I would assume as your power light stays lit regardless and the manu light comes on when it shouldn't that there's a problem with the wiring at least.

Re: the manu/power buttons themselves, I've had my auto for a while and leave it in power mode permanently & just use the overdrive button for more fuel efficiency on motorways etc. I find the acceleration a bit sluggish when it's not engaged on those occassions when you need all the power 'right now' and don't have the time to be hunting to press buttons and then waiting for the ecu to wake up. Kick down happens in a second or so from flooring it and the power setting revs to 7/7.5k rather than 4.5/5 with no lights lit.
The manual button allows you to lock the gear for driving in snow or ice, or for very long hills so you don't have ride the brakes.
I've tried driving normally in Manual mode and fuel consumption was horrendous. I've also since read it's a good way to kill the transmission & should be used as intended rather than for normal driving.

[arif_manji]

Hi Mullen,

Thank you for your reply!

That's some good info. I didn't think the PWR light dimly on was normal. I have using the MANU mode thinking it was economical but has been horrendous on fuel. When I push the PWR button, a light doesn't come on because it permanently on, very dim and hard to see.

You said you 'leave it in power mode permanently & just use the overdrive button for more fuel efficiency on motorways etc'. Whats the overdrive button, is that the button on the side of the selector? I may have misunderstood that part.

Looks like a simple system but quiet difficult to get your head around on.

I'm going to replace the rev counter I have bought from eBay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291394629132

And will go on to replace the gear selector if that fails:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-MR2-MK ... 461272d57c

When I bough the car (last month), the guy selling told me the gearbox was slipping and it was replace with a second hand one which now makes me worry a bit.

I will now stop using the MANU model.

[Mullen]

Hey, yes the overdrive button is the one on the side of the shifter.
As I'm sure you've noticed when it's disengaged there's an O/D Off light on the dash & when it's engaged the light goes out & the revs drop while maintaining current speed. There is no O/D On light.

At the risk of immediately looking on the bad side, it's entirely possible that driving it for the last month in Manu mode has not done it any good at all, although as the previous owner told you the gearbox was a bit iffy it may well be that it wasn't in the best of health to start with and it's just brought that to your attention.
This could just be down to an electrical problem between the various components or something more serious.

I'm not a mechanic but if it was me before I spent any money on components I'd take it for a drive, [shifter in D] until it was up to temp then disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to reset the ECU... Then take it for a spirited drive for 20 mins 1/2 hour with the power button on. From a standing start with the pedal flat to the floor it ought to rev to 7/7.5k before changing down at around 45MPH & then you should really feel it start to pull again as it heads up to 70 odd & the revs should be around 4.5k as you hold it at that speed. Then check the O/D button works, you should hear & feel the revs drop back to 3k while maintaing speed, turn it off again and feel the engine braking and the car should slow somewhat.
If it doesn't work like that, check for error codes when you get home - [url]www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-knowledge-b ... bartid=162]/url] - you don't need a special tool, any old bit of wire or a paperclip will do.

[Mullen]

Hey, yes the overdrive button is the one on the side of the shifter.
As I'm sure you've noticed when it's disengaged there's an O/D Off light on the dash & when it's engaged the light goes out & the revs drop while maintaining current speed. There is no O/D On light.

At the risk of immediately looking on the bad side, it's entirely possible that driving it for the last month in Manu mode has not done it any good at all, although as the previous owner told you the gearbox was a bit iffy it may well be that it wasn't in the best of health to start with and it's just brought that to your attention.
This could just be down to an electrical problem between the various components or something more serious.

I'm not a mechanic but if it was me before I spent any money on components I'd take it for a drive, [shifter in D] until it was up to temp then disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to reset the ECU... Then take it for a spirited drive for 20 mins 1/2 hour with the power button on. From a standing start with the pedal flat to the floor it ought to rev to 7/7.5k before changing down at around 45MPH & then you should really feel it start to pull again as it heads up to 70 odd & the revs should be around 4.5k as you hold it at that speed. Then check the O/D button works, you should hear & feel the revs drop back to 3k while maintaing speed, turn it off again and feel the engine braking and the car should slow somewhat.
If it doesn't work like that, check for error codes when you get home - - you don't need a special tool, any old bit of wire or a paperclip will do.

edit// for some reason it wouldn't let me post this with a link to the error code how-to, but if you google, 'mr2 how to check error codes' there's a link to a tutorial if you don't know how to do it already.

[arif_manji]

Hey, yes the overdrive button is the one on the side of the shifter.
As I'm sure you've noticed when it's disengaged there's an O/D Off light on the dash & when it's engaged the light goes out & the revs drop while maintaining current speed. There is no O/D On light.

At the risk of immediately looking on the bad side, it's entirely possible that driving it for the last month in Manu mode has not done it any good at all, although as the previous owner told you the gearbox was a bit iffy it may well be that it wasn't in the best of health to start with and it's just brought that to your attention.
This could just be down to an electrical problem between the various components or something more serious.

I'm not a mechanic but if it was me before I spent any money on components I'd take it for a drive, [shifter in D] until it was up to temp then disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to reset the ECU... Then take it for a spirited drive for 20 mins 1/2 hour with the power button on. From a standing start with the pedal flat to the floor it ought to rev to 7/7.5k before changing down at around 45MPH & then you should really feel it start to pull again as it heads up to 70 odd & the revs should be around 4.5k as you hold it at that speed. Then check the O/D button works, you should hear & feel the revs drop back to 3k while maintaing speed, turn it off again and feel the engine braking and the car should slow somewhat.
If it doesn't work like that, check for error codes when you get home - - you don't need a special tool, any old bit of wire or a paperclip will do.

edit// for some reason it wouldn't let me post this with a link to the error code how-to, but if you google, 'mr2 how to check error codes' there's a link to a tutorial if you don't know how to do it already.

Hi there mate,

That's strange, when I press the override button on the shifter, no light appears on the speedo? I'm really curious about this... Any chance you could send me a picture of how it looks?

I have probably driven the car in MANU mode for about 100 miles max if that - hopefully that hasn't done too much damage.

The previous owner told me he got the auto gearbox replaced as it was slipping with a second hand one.

The ECU for the auto gearbox is located under the drivers seat I think, I've seen it when I was cleaning it out properly so removed the seat and saw it.

When I first bought it, I took it for a drive on the dual carriage way and I remember I had it on one of the modes, I was driving it quiet hard and then switched it off, the car totally slowed down - I haven't felt that for a while switching on and off the modes. Is it at any particular speeds?

Over the Easter break, ill try your test and will let you know how I got on.

Thanks for the info, really appreciated. I'm now really curious about this O/D light, never seen this light.

[Mullen]

With the O/D button off - fully out on the shifter, there is a dash light that says 'O/D Off'.
With the O/D button on - fully depressed on the shifter, the dash light goes out.
There's no 'O/D on' dash light.

Yes, it's only really noticeable above 50MPH.

The ECU is not under the drivers seat, that's a different thing altogether, [it escapes me what, something to do with the factory alarm or radio I think & not all auto cars have them anyway]

The ECU is in the boot on the left hand side of the firewall behind the carpet, same as all MR2's.

[arif_manji]

With the O/D button off - fully out on the shifter, there is a dash light that says 'O/D Off'.
With the O/D button on - fully depressed on the shifter, the dash light goes out.
There's no 'O/D on' dash light.

Yes, it's only really noticeable above 50MPH.

The ECU is not under the drivers seat, that's a different thing altogether, [it escapes me what, something to do with the factory alarm or radio I think & not all auto cars have them anyway]

The ECU is in the boot on the left hand side of the firewall behind the carpet, same as all MR2's.

Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://i.imgur.com/5XxEwKU.jpg

I never knew that there was a light there, I'll have to take the cluster out and see what's going. The bulb may have blown maybe? The previous owner had put LED blubs in which I replaced back to original, didn't see one for this one - thanks for the picture, that's helped! The PWR light is really bright on yours, you cant even see mine at all.

It's weird how the PWR switches on the MANU light and the MANU doesn't do anything. The green PWR is on always but really dim.

So there isn't a separate ECU for the auto gearbox then?

[Mullen]

I read somewhere recently that some of the dash lights shouldn't be changed for LEDs as the resistance from the oem type bulbs is needed.
You should only change the 5 large bulbs & the indicators.

No, just the main ECU. The one's for Auto are marked A. Manuals are labelled M/T.

[arif_manji]

I read somewhere recently that some of the dash lights shouldn't be changed for LEDs as the resistance from the oem type bulbs is needed.
You should only change the 5 large bulbs & the indicators.

No, just the main ECU. The one's for Auto are marked A. Manuals are labelled M/T.

Mullen, only the 5 large ones were changed to LED's, the smaller ones were left as they were.

I had a couple of hours free this morning and took out the cluster to check if the O/D bulb was in or malfunctioning. It was there and bulb is working, it doesn't illuminate when O/D is on or off.

I found another issue, the 'Door Open' bulb was missing on the cluster, so I put one in and it illuminated straightaway. But, it doesn't switch off even with all the doors closed. It only goes off when the engine is started. Once switched off, it illuminates and you cant turn it off. I ended up removing the bulb.





So there is definitely an electrical issue as you said Mullen.

In my previous reply, I said that the PWR is on all the time. That's not the case, it only illuminates when the O/D is pressed - very dim light, you can hardly see it.

I don't know if II should buy new speedo cluster? But ill wait as I contact a guy who is a MR2 specialist in Hertfordshire (Pacific Works) to have a look at it.

[arif_manji]

I've noticed another issue today. The car isn't going into the 4th gear, it remains in 3rd, hence why I've been getting horrendous fuel consumption!

My journey to work is via 10 mile dual carriage way each way, only once did I notice it going into 4th, the revs @ 3600 rmp and then going into 4th after 3.5 minutes.

I noticed this a few days ago but then didn't pay too much attention as I was thinking about work stuff.

What should I do? Tomorrow ill be filling it up after work as it low on fuel, I will then disconnect the battery to reset the ECU for 2-3 minutes while the car is hot and then drive it home for 10 miles as per Mullen advise.

Has anyone seen this issue before? I'm hoping I don't have a failing auto gearbox

[arif_manji]

Hey, yes the overdrive button is the one on the side of the shifter.
As I'm sure you've noticed when it's disengaged there's an O/D Off light on the dash & when it's engaged the light goes out & the revs drop while maintaining current speed. There is no O/D On light.

At the risk of immediately looking on the bad side, it's entirely possible that driving it for the last month in Manu mode has not done it any good at all, although as the previous owner told you the gearbox was a bit iffy it may well be that it wasn't in the best of health to start with and it's just brought that to your attention.
This could just be down to an electrical problem between the various components or something more serious.

I'm not a mechanic but if it was me before I spent any money on components I'd take it for a drive, [shifter in D] until it was up to temp then disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to reset the ECU... Then take it for a spirited drive for 20 mins 1/2 hour with the power button on. From a standing start with the pedal flat to the floor it ought to rev to 7/7.5k before changing down at around 45MPH & then you should really feel it start to pull again as it heads up to 70 odd & the revs should be around 4.5k as you hold it at that speed. Then check the O/D button works, you should hear & feel the revs drop back to 3k while maintaing speed, turn it off again and feel the engine braking and the car should slow somewhat.
If it doesn't work like that, check for error codes when you get home - - you don't need a special tool, any old bit of wire or a paperclip will do.

edit// for some reason it wouldn't let me post this with a link to the error code how-to, but if you google, 'mr2 how to check error codes' there's a link to a tutorial if you don't know how to do it already.

Hi Mullen,

I did exactly what you suggested, it didn't make any difference although starts up more quickly?

Struggles to get into 4th gear still and O/D light does not come on nor has it resolved the PWR and MANU light issue.

[Mullen]

Have you checked for error codes yet?

I'm not finding a great deal of help apart from people mentioning O/D is dependent on the thermostat working correctly.

Also there is no 4th gear on the autos. It's a 3 speed box. That's what O/D is for: eg, on the motorway with O/D off you'll be doing 80 mph @4k revs in 3rd, with O/D on it'll stay in/drop down to 2nd @ 2.8k whilst maintaining speed.

[arif_manji]

Have you checked for error codes yet?

I'm not finding a great deal of help apart from people mentioning O/D is dependent on the thermostat working correctly.

Also there is no 4th gear on the autos. It's a 3 speed box. That's what O/D is for: eg, on the motorway with O/D off you'll be doing 80 mph @4k revs in 3rd, with O/D on it'll stay in/drop down to 2nd @ 2.8k whilst maintaining speed.

As the engine has not come on, I've assumed there are no codes? But if the light doesn't need to be on to show there an issue then ill do a check.

Where is the socket to do the test? I can see a diagnostic port in the engine bay with a grey top on it, I have my paper clip ready but not sure which bit I need to put it in?

Thanks for letting me know about the gearbox having 3 gears and O/D works like a 4th. I'm sure it has worked once when I first bought the car, saw the revs go right down at high speed on the motorway.

Its funny you say that about the thermostat as the temperature always stays low, I've seen it move like a little toward the quarter, never nearer to the half line.

[Mullen]

Error code how to is here... www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-knowledge-b ... bartid=162

The gauge should sit at 9 o'clock or a little below when the engine is up to temp, so either there's a problem with the gauge itself, the sensor, [black one next to green coolant sensor] the thermostat, or the coolant system isn't working/bled properly.

Coolant guide here... www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-knowledge-b ... bartid=161

Ignore the replacing the radiator section.

[arif_manji]

OK - the heater is warmish not that that hot now thinking about it.

Any chance you just circle the points I need to connect this jumper to please?





I'll look into those links too - cheers mate.

[Pauln]

Here's a link to another error code how to thanks hosted by forum member Shinny, which shows the pins you need to short to read off the code:

How to read error codes

Paul

[arif_manji]

Here's a link to another error code how to thanks hosted by forum member Shinny, which shows the pins you need to short to read off the code:

How to read error codes

Paul

Thanks Pauln!

[arif_manji]

Ok, so I did the paper clip test and the engine light continuously flashes with no long or slow pauses, does that mean no code has been stored?

Video:

http://vid1333.photobucket.com/albums/w ... vne2o1.mp4

You will also notice how the needle jumps every time I start the ignition.

I also noticed that the engine temperature is where it should be:



I'm confused

[Pauln]

Yep the regular fast flashes indicate no error has been stored.

Not sure up the speedo needle jump. Some kph to mph converters do a test sweep when you turn the ignition, but that usually more gentle and to several preset points. It may be something to do with it being an automatic, but I have no experience of those models. Mullen's your best bet with that.

Paul