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On the other hand I have also heard people say there is more of a kick from the Ct26 as the turbo has a narrower power band? 
That is something I do not want to deal with, anymore. That is one of the reasons I am going to stick with it. Both have merits. Rev 2 feels like a modern derv. Not in a bad way just feels like more of a kick but runs out of puff. Better fueling better mpg and is quicker easier to mod etc. If I was after another one I'd buy on condition over what rev it was. Run far away. Plenty at the minute have shocking rust that is plain to see. Imagine what theyre like where you can't see. Rust on the arches was the main reason I got rid of my last 2 and it being a tbar 
..... very expensive would not recommend mate.2mad wrote:The amount of work/mods I had to do to equal/surpass what a rev3+ can do with just uped boost
So I wouldn't have thought there was an increase in cost as Rev2's are cheaper to buy. 
MR2 Rich wrote:2mad wrote:The amount of work/mods I had to do to equal/surpass what a rev3+ can do with just uped boost
I see what you are saying but when I modify it I would be going for more power than you would be able to get from a Rev3.
.. me i went .. ct20b.. mines ecu , hks vpc , water/meth , afc tune + stage one mods to get me there .. my st205 does this with just boost uped .synXero wrote:Cars are made of steel and steel rusts a lot.
The only way you're going to get one with no rust is if it's had a full money no object resto.
Yes steel rusts I cant argue that but some are falling to bits and others aren't. I've been all over mine and outruns and theyre good. Combination of being looked after off the road at winter etc.synXero wrote:Cars are made of steel and steel rusts a lot.
The only way you're going to get one with no rust is if it's had a full money no object resto.
Yes steel rusts I cant argue that but some are falling to bits and others aren't. I've been all over mine and outruns and theyre good. Combination of being looked after off the road at winter etc... at all. I would look for a rev5 turbo in mint condition with no rust as u get everything in the rev 5 turbo more chance of it being in mint condition although i did see a rev 5 a month ago and it was a rust bucket... so look carefully Other than having a better cylinder head you'll be throwing pretty much the same amount of cash at it anyway. sheppy wrote:if you plan on going beyond the capabilities of the rev3 ignition and fueling system then it makes no difference which revision you buy.
A lot of folk maintain that the rev2 block is cast using better material and is slightly thicker around the water pump so less prone to cracking, However people have had plenty success with rev3s also.
.. i think were talking max power for stock engine .. rev3+ wins In most cases a 3rd or more on top for similar specced cars. Brilliant, brilliant cars in any form IMO.? 
- MAP sensor instead of AFM - Bosch D-Jetronic (Gen III) vs. L-Jetronic (relatively primitive) engine management - CT20b turbo replaces CT26- Boost raised from 10psi to 13psi- Fuel cut raised from 12 psi to 18 psi- Different ECU- 4 wire O2 sensor- Shim under bucket valve shims- slightly more aggressive cams- Revised internals (pistons, con-rods etc.) - Revised cylinder head cooling passages/water jackets- Revised intake manifold (8 'independent long ports' reduced to 4)- intake manifold inlet air temperature sensor added. i.e. after turbo and intercooler. - Revised gearbox with close ratio gearing- lower compression ratio - stainless steel head gasket - factory 540cc injectors replace 430cc injectors- revised fuel rail with bigger bore and relocated pressure regulator- TVIS eliminated - EGR eliminated - LSD in 80% of them - throttle body increased from 55mm to 60mm - inlet valve lift increased from 8.2 to 8.7 - intake manifold inlet air temperature sensor added - Less restrictive exhaust elbow - Aluminum oil pan - more rigid alloy sump and additional oil baffles- Factory Catch can - Better Oil Cooler and relocated oil filter (bottom) - 4 Channel ABS coupled with Traction Control available - No. 1 compression ring described as 'stainless steel' instead of just 'steel'. Oil ring is described as 'stainless steel' instead of 'a combination of steel and stainless steel'. The only available flow bench numbers ever presented prove (if you can use the word) that the gen2 head flows more than the gen3. The ct20b, map based injection, higher lift higher duration cams, shim under bucket and a plethora of small tweaks all combine to produce more power over the whole rev band.