[Mk2] [Turbo] power

[porscheeater]

manifold is from the usa cost me £1400 it better not crack on me.

Good stuff! Sounds like a Full Race. Did you get a Rev1/2 or Rev3 head stud pattern?

i have a rev2 so i am sure i have that one
I will get a picture and you can tell me
i better have the right one its a long trip back to athens GA lol

[2mad]

manifold is from the usa cost me £1400 it better not crack on me.

Holly s*it if it cracks i'll be p*ssed off, looks like you going full tilt when it comes to parts for your build

[ashley]

I'd be interested to see what power/boost, the rev2 block cracked.

When they go, it does seem to be around the water pump- and not necessarily boost related....I suspect it may have something to do with if/ how folk have deleted the air con and whether a certain bolt for the a/c tensioner is replaced after it is removed.

[ashley]

manifold is from the usa cost me £1400 it better not crack on me. I'm always out there so get parts pretty cheap when i can.

I'm going to stick to these parts for now and get it running right. as it need painting (paint fade) and the interior sorting i'll start there first.

so on my stage2 list i have
fast road clutch
injectors
head gasket
wiseco pistons

Seriously- add in a set of forged pistons, and a fresh set of main and big end bearings....makes more sense to do it while you have the engine apart than to have to come back to it.


Oh- and 400hp in an MR2 is very very different to 400hp in a BMW Mini

[porscheeater]

I'd be interested to see what power/boost, the rev2 block cracked.

When they go, it does seem to be around the water pump- and not necessarily boost related....I suspect it may have something to do with if/ how folk have deleted the air con and whether a certain bolt for the a/c tensioner is replaced after it is removed.

i still have A/C

[2mad]

I'd be interested to see what power/boost, the rev2 block cracked.

When they go, it does seem to be around the water pump- and not necessarily boost related....I suspect it may have something to do with if/ how folk have deleted the air con and whether a certain bolt for the a/c tensioner is replaced after it is removed.

This ^^, i've herd this quite recently about the bolt, or should i say not replacing it .

[ashley]

I'd be interested to see what power/boost, the rev2 block cracked.

When they go, it does seem to be around the water pump- and not necessarily boost related....I suspect it may have something to do with if/ how folk have deleted the air con and whether a certain bolt for the a/c tensioner is replaced after it is removed.

i still have A/C

Good job- go get some 8:0 forged pistons now, and while you're at it get a big intercooler or a charge cooler

[Peter Gidden]

manifold is from the usa cost me £1400 it better not crack on me.

Good stuff! Sounds like a Full Race. Did you get a Rev1/2 or Rev3 head stud pattern?

i have a rev2 so i am sure i have that one
I will get a picture and you can tell me
i better have the right one its a long trip back to athens GA lol

I'm sure you've bought the one you wanted. Was asking as the Rev3+ top end flows better than the early ones.

[Peter Gidden]

I had a rev 2 block crack.

std power. behind water pump

Very unlucky. Never heard of early block cracking at anything near stock power.

[porscheeater]

ok i will be adding piston and bearings just not yet as i'm not opening the engine up yet.

the only parts i will be fitting to the car is the exhaust system decat pipe and the rest mani is staying off until i need to take the lump to re-spray which will be around jan time.

by then i should have all i need to reach my 400bhp goal

as for exhaust single or twin exit??

[craig]

as for exhaust single or twin exit??

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=180730

[porscheeater]

as for exhaust single or twin exit??

just reading through your build good stuff

[ashley]

You should put a build thread up for yours in the members section too mate...with lots of photos

[porscheeater]

You should put a build thread up for yours in the members section too mate...with lots of photos

i will do just getting my bits together first.

ok peeps im in need of a few parts
now can someone point me in the direction of a good parts supper for the MR2's please

I have a lot of wind noise so im guessing thats sills (T-bar)
wing mirrors mine seem to be flap like a bird
interior carpet i have a hole in mine
drivers door with glass and electric window motor etc

think thats it for now, but i am sure there will be more

[ashley]

Cars breaking section on here for most of those bits mate

[toecutter]

I'd be interested to see what power/boost, the rev2 block cracked.

When they go, it does seem to be around the water pump- and not necessarily boost related....I suspect it may have something to do with if/ how folk have deleted the air con and whether a certain bolt for the a/c tensioner is replaced after it is removed.

I have removed air con on my Rev 2, can you explain about the bolt please?

[decker2]

I have already removed the bits of air con rad, intend to remove redundant compressor, which bolt needs to be replaced?

[ashley]

From memory (and without a rev1-2 block in front of me to double check), I think it's the one I've circled in red (that bolts into the water housing):

[Ryan S]

Yeah what's this problem? I'm by no means doubting anyone but 9 years on this site and i've never heard anything about this, if anything i'm slightly worried as my tensioner is off as it rattled itself free

[ashley]

Yeah what's this problem? I'm by no means doubting anyone but 9 years on this site and i've never heard anything about this, if anything i'm slightly worried as my tensioner is off as it rattled itself free

It is based on speculation between a couple engine builders I was discussing the 3S blocks with...we understand why the Rev3+ blocks crack in the cylinders (poor casting, and hence inconsistent cylinder wall thickness, proven across 4 dissected blocks). We also understand why sleeving them doesn't solve it as there is too little material left between the cylinders to resist the forces from the crank, (and so the deck tends to crack into the top water way, typically between 2 & 3).

The history we as a group had pointed at rev 1 - 2 blocks having thicker, more consistent cylinder walls, but when they let go it was almost always around the water pump casting.

One of the speculated causes was that when the a/c was deleted on these engines, often the a/c tensioner bolt wasn't replaced into the water housing, the theory being that centrifugal forces in that area of the block without the additional support from this bolt may have been helping lead to cracking.

It's certainly no where near a proven fact, just our best guess as we tried to explain the patterns in front of us and I'm kinda regretting putting it out there now...expecting to get told I'm wrong!