Hi chaps,
I've spent what seems forever looking around the Internet to try and see what methods can prevent (as much as possible) the inevitable rusting that seems to plague these cars, but never found an answer really.
I've read things such as:
Under sealing car
Removing sill drain plug and injecting rust inhibitors
Waxoyling in boot around rear arches
But I guess what I'm trying to say is, is it all rubbish? You guys obviously are the best people to know, and as i have a rust free example.....I want to try my darn hardest to keep it that way considering it's my DD and will be outdoors all year.
What things have worked for you? Has anyone been successful at keeping it all at bay? What is the best stuff to use?
I worry about spraying the inner sills with stuff incase it causes more water to trap than it not being there?
comprehensive rust proofing?
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Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
As long as any drains are clear, there should be no issues with water retention. Cavity wax isn't going to block drains.
There are lots of products out there. The general consensus seems to be that waxoyl is quite a way off being the best, as is conventional underseal.
There are places that do nothing but rust prevention work/products , Rustbuster, for example. Probably makes sense to talk to them.
Most folk recommend removing the sound (and water!) absorbing foam that you can find by removing the plastic panel by the bottom seat belt mount.
There are lots of products out there. The general consensus seems to be that waxoyl is quite a way off being the best, as is conventional underseal.
There are places that do nothing but rust prevention work/products , Rustbuster, for example. Probably makes sense to talk to them.
Most folk recommend removing the sound (and water!) absorbing foam that you can find by removing the plastic panel by the bottom seat belt mount.
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
If its a daily then here is nothing you can do to stop rust,only delay the inevitable in our climate.
I use Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 everywhere and poke metal sheet strips up in your sill drain slots to clear them. The plugs are not the drainage points.
I use Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 everywhere and poke metal sheet strips up in your sill drain slots to clear them. The plugs are not the drainage points.
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
Thanks - Rob where are the drainage slots?
Would you mind detailing literally how and where you cover? It seems the s50 is generally the most popular stuff to use.
Although, it does seem to just be the rear of the sills that rot, right?
I guess as long as you keep some cash aside for it then it's not that much of a big deal. Unless I've missed something and they rot elsewhere?
Would you mind detailing literally how and where you cover? It seems the s50 is generally the most popular stuff to use.
Although, it does seem to just be the rear of the sills that rot, right?
I guess as long as you keep some cash aside for it then it's not that much of a big deal. Unless I've missed something and they rot elsewhere?
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
The real sill (as opposed to the rear outrigger) is a box section with a complex inner sill. Generally they start to rot at the back, but rust is opportunistic. If it "sees" a chance, it'll strike.
Only sill removal (a bit drastic!) or endoscopy (very cheap USB endoscopes on eBay which may do the job) will tell.
Only sill removal (a bit drastic!) or endoscopy (very cheap USB endoscopes on eBay which may do the job) will tell.
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
Absolutely - seems that's what the killer is on most of them - I'm allowing for that to be the only real place for bad problems really.
So is the s50 regarded as the best? I want to try and get a lot of the best stuff, and take pictures of everywhere I coat.
My general idea at the moment is to spray:
*Remove boot carpet and cover the arches
*Remove interior panel and take out the foam triangle - see the inner box section and go mental with spray down there
* Unplug the rear bung on the back of the sill and go mental in there
* Paint the end of the outer sill where crap collects being the wheel (is s50 a bit then here?)
*Have the car under sealed, even though it's not that great I'd rather give it every chance possible - is that common on here?
So is the s50 regarded as the best? I want to try and get a lot of the best stuff, and take pictures of everywhere I coat.
My general idea at the moment is to spray:
*Remove boot carpet and cover the arches
*Remove interior panel and take out the foam triangle - see the inner box section and go mental with spray down there
* Unplug the rear bung on the back of the sill and go mental in there
* Paint the end of the outer sill where crap collects being the wheel (is s50 a bit then here?)
*Have the car under sealed, even though it's not that great I'd rather give it every chance possible - is that common on here?
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
androo007 wrote:
So is the s50 regarded as the best? I want to try and get a lot of the best stuff, and take pictures of everywhere I coat.
Seems to get the best reviews.
androo007 wrote:
*Have the car under sealed, even though it's not that great I'd rather give it every chance possible - is that common on here?
When I get round to mine -- a scruffy but surprisingly rust free rev1 -- I'll use epoxy mastic on the underside and the inside of the rear sill extension.
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
Super, thanks a lot.
I've ordered an endoscope and will get a load of s50. I've noticed that the bottom of the sill lip (where you jack) is unprotected along the whole length and has some surface rust so will be treating and coating in hammerite or similar also.
I've ordered an endoscope and will get a load of s50. I've noticed that the bottom of the sill lip (where you jack) is unprotected along the whole length and has some surface rust so will be treating and coating in hammerite or similar also.
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
That lip, where you jack contains the drains. If you feel for the thickened bits every few feet thet are about an inch long, they contain a slot that goes into the sill.
Best to get on your back and look from underneath where you can see the drains easier looking behind the seam.
Other rust areas to check are up in the rear of the turrets where they form part of the bulkhead of the boot.
Best to get on your back and look from underneath where you can see the drains easier looking behind the seam.
Other rust areas to check are up in the rear of the turrets where they form part of the bulkhead of the boot.
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
androo007 wrote:Absolutely - seems that's what the killer is on most of them - I'm allowing for that to be the only real place for bad problems really.
So is the s50 regarded as the best? I want to try and get a lot of the best stuff, and take pictures of everywhere I coat.
My general idea at the moment is to spray:
*Remove boot carpet and cover the arches
*Remove interior panel and take out the foam triangle - see the inner box section and go mental with spray down there
* Unplug the rear bung on the back of the sill and go mental in there
* Paint the end of the outer sill where crap collects being the wheel (is s50 a bit then here?)
*Have the car under sealed, even though it's not that great I'd rather give it every chance possible - is that common on here?
If you're feeling adventurous remove the rear bumper...
There was no sign of any of this from inside the boot.
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
Last year I used por15 and painted under the sills, the lip, the rear of the will in the arch then over coated with hammerite as por15 fades in the sun. Then removed the plastic bungs in the sill (should have done before the por15) used a rust treatment in the area behind the seatbelt at the bottom of the sill, (can't remember which treatment) there was hardly anything, used a jet wash to get rid of anything before and after the treatment. Left it to dry for a few days then went to town with the s50.
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
Mullen wrote:androo007 wrote:Absolutely - seems that's what the killer is on most of them - I'm allowing for that to be the only real place for bad problems really.
So is the s50 regarded as the best? I want to try and get a lot of the best stuff, and take pictures of everywhere I coat.
My general idea at the moment is to spray:
*Remove boot carpet and cover the arches
*Remove interior panel and take out the foam triangle - see the inner box section and go mental with spray down there
* Unplug the rear bung on the back of the sill and go mental in there
* Paint the end of the outer sill where crap collects being the wheel (is s50 a bit then here?)
*Have the car under sealed, even though it's not that great I'd rather give it every chance possible - is that common on here?
If you're feeling adventurous remove the rear bumper...
Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://i.imgur.com/0sZsVAD.jpg
Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://i.imgur.com/2uf11wW.jpg
There was no sign of any of this from inside the boot.
In addition to this there is a slot drain at the flange underneath the bumper ventilation flaps that gets silted up. There will be evidence of this in the boot if the drain is blocked - strip out your boot lining and look into the rear wheel arch pockets.
Poke the same thin strip of metal you used on the sill drains to clear this from underneath the seam.......then go Dynax S50 happy again.....
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
Great, thanks guys, feels like I'm getting an action plan together now then. Even considering bumper removal too, just to be sure.
I didn't realise there were the drain slots there! As it's not been out in bad weather for over 8 years and extremely clean, i'm desperate to keep it that way!
I didn't realise there were the drain slots there! As it's not been out in bad weather for over 8 years and extremely clean, i'm desperate to keep it that way!
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
Yep, I'm going to do a write up of how to clear the drains as nobody seems to understand where they are or that they are probably blocked!
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
yeah, please do share with me Rob i'd love to see.
Fully went to town at the weekend with the Dynax S50 - great stuff.
Bloody man on the phone sold me 4 cans..... I've struggled to even get through one!!! So i'll have some more to sell on here in a few days!
Some dried on the driveway, not even a pressure washer on full pelt got it off, so i have faith in its sticking abilities! The sills were in good shape, so glad I got in there now to keep her OK.
Got in the Sills via interior, Via the outer drain plugs (the hose feeds right in along the rear length, perfect!) and in the rear arches all the way down.
Fully went to town at the weekend with the Dynax S50 - great stuff.
Bloody man on the phone sold me 4 cans..... I've struggled to even get through one!!! So i'll have some more to sell on here in a few days!
Some dried on the driveway, not even a pressure washer on full pelt got it off, so i have faith in its sticking abilities! The sills were in good shape, so glad I got in there now to keep her OK.
Got in the Sills via interior, Via the outer drain plugs (the hose feeds right in along the rear length, perfect!) and in the rear arches all the way down.
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
Good man, sounds exactly what I did.
Re: comprehensive rust proofing?
Mullen wrote:
If you're feeling adventurous remove the rear bumper...
There was no sign of any of this from inside the boot.
That's just nasty. Needs a disclaimer saying that viewers should use cation and pictures show distressing scenes!
Guess i'll be taking the rear off mine when i return to the UK.