So after getting my leaky t-bar fixed last week this weeks problem was rather dramatic, was driving home from work and as soon as I stopped in the car I noticed plumes of smoke pouring from the engine bay so much that I thought it was on fire, luckily it was steam, turns out a small 3inch long rubber pipe below the turbohas split and was leaking coolant onto the exhaust hence the dramatic steam.
So it's currently in the garage with turbo removed, manifold removed (minus the 3 snapped bolts that decided to stay attached to the car only plus is while it's in bits it's havin a de-cat fitted and mbc fitted. No help really needed just thought I'd share my misery lol.
[Mk2] [Turbo] Another week another problem......
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Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Another week another problem......
That's the Hose From Hell. Lotta work for a small price part.
Shame they removed the manifold when they didn't have to.
Shame they removed the manifold when they didn't have to.
Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Another week another problem......
Is it a common failure that hose from hell or is it caused by something specific? I wouldn't of thought the manifold needed to be removed but it's too late now unfortunately, that's the trouble with garages that aren't to familiar with mr2s I suppose.
Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Another week another problem......
Yep, exhaust manifold does not need removing, lucky they never snapped a stud in the head.
Edit, re-read......3 snapped studs
Edit, re-read......3 snapped studs
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Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Another week another problem......
Jaffacake wrote:Is it a common failure that hose from hell or is it caused by something specific?
Age and environment.
Make sure they replace HFH2 at the same time.
Last edited by Peter Gidden on Mon Feb 03, 2014 8:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Another week another problem......
Crazy, how the hose itself is like £4, but about an 7-8 hour job to change the bloody thing!
Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Another week another problem......
RedMR² wrote:Crazy, how the hose itself is like £4, but about an 7-8 hour job to change the bloody thing!
It's the labour charge that'll be the killer but hay ho needs must. One plus side is at least I no it's been done now so shouldn't need doin again touch wood.
Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Another week another problem......
RedMR² wrote:Yep, exhaust manifold does not need removing, lucky they never snapped a stud in the head.
Edit, re-read......3 snapped studs
Just an update spoke to garage today and I miss heard them, they haven't removed manifold so slightly better news, the bolts that have sheared are the ones joining turbo to down pipe so not as bad as first thought
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Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Another week another problem......
Jaffacake wrote:RedMR² wrote:Yep, exhaust manifold does not need removing, lucky they never snapped a stud in the head.
Edit, re-read......3 snapped studs
Just an update spoke to garage today and I miss heard them, they haven't removed manifold so slightly better news, the bolts that have sheared are the ones joining turbo to down pipe so not as bad as first thought
Ouch. They need to get less brute force and more heat. I've NEVER snapped a turbine outlet bolt. They're not going to be easy to drill and retap. Hope they're not charging you!
Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Another week another problem......
Ouch. They need to get less brute force and more heat. I've NEVER snapped a turbine outlet bolt. They're not going to be easy to drill and retap. Hope they're not charging you![/quote]
No they said i wouldn't be charged luckily. I'm not sure what the plan is, wouldn't it be possible/viable to just drill old ones out and use a nut and bolt? Or wouldn't that be stable.
No they said i wouldn't be charged luckily. I'm not sure what the plan is, wouldn't it be possible/viable to just drill old ones out and use a nut and bolt? Or wouldn't that be stable.
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Re: [Mk2] [Turbo] Another week another problem......
Jaffacake wrote:wouldn't it be possible/viable to just drill old ones out and use a nut and bolt? Or wouldn't that be stable.
You need a flat face at the rear for the bolt heads to seat securely, and that isn't there.
The only proper solution is to drill the broken studs out and retap. A job for a machine shop since the drilling has to be dead centre and at a perfect 90 degrees to gasket surface.