Engine bay latch move.

DNOS808 · Post by **DNOS808** » Thu Dec 12, 2013 9:52 pm

Hi guys,

I have recently moved the engine bay latch on my Supercharger conversion and I thought I would try to post a few photos of the job.

The latch needs to be moved because on a supercharger one of the intercooler pipes goes where the latch normally sits so the SC lid has the latch moved over by a couple of inches.

To move my latch I ground the spot welds off the original latch mount and removed it. Then I got a latch mount off a scrap car and welded it in the new position using small spots of MIG weld through little drilled holes. It worked out surprisingly well although there are simpler ways to do the job.

I have attempted to post some photos below. http://s1338.photobucket.com/user/Tobia ... sort=3&o=6

DNOS808 · Post by **DNOS808** » Thu Dec 12, 2013 9:59 pm

My attempt to post pictures has been partially successful. I seem to have linked to a gallery of pictures which includes the two I had in mind (one of the white colored un-welded latch mount and one of a black painted finished latch). There are also a few other pictures in the gallery including my special engine accessibility modification and some of a coolant fitting that I am trying to obtain.

chief44 · Post by **chief44** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 12:08 am

Hi there. Good work. I've recently got myself a supercharger lid for my 1.5 and will be looking to fit it next week. I was planning to move the hook on the lid itself, but this seems like it could work better. My latch assembly is already just bolted on, so it may be easier.
Nice job

jimi · Post by **jimi** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 2:51 am

Here you go

PW@Woodsport · Post by **PW@Woodsport** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 7:23 am

I find it easier to move the bar on the SC lid, it also means you can go back to the NA lid with no fuss. I use a Mk2 boot lid catch for this, use one of the existing lid holes which then puts the bar in the right place, sink a captive nut into some fibral and build the area up.....

If cutting the car can be avoided it's for the best.

chief44 · Post by **chief44** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 11:45 pm

Very true. But as my catch assembly is already just bolted on, I could just shift it over and keep the current holes incase I fancy changing back. Either way, it'll be fitted soon I hope.

DNOS808 · Post by **DNOS808** » Sat Dec 14, 2013 10:12 am

Thank you Jimi for sorting out the pictures for me.

I should have taken a few more photos while I was doing the job but I got rather engrossed in the process and so I only have the two posted.

I did consider moving the catch on the lid as PW does but with the tools, skills and facilities that I have access to I felt that moving the latch mount would be easier. I have an excellent Matika angle grinder and when it is used with a really fine grinding disc the spot welds can be ground off really accurately with minimal damage. I used to use cheap Machine mart angle grinders and I cannot even express how much better the Matika one is to use- it is worth every penny of the extra cost!

For me the secret to the process was to cut the latch mount off a scrap car so that the process of separating the latch mount from the bodywork could be done without worrying about damage to the bodywork it was spot welded to. Careful grinding and drilling was used to break the spot welds. Having the latch mount on the bench rather than on the car made this process infinitely easier since I could access all of the spot welds from every angle.

www.imoc.co.uk