![](./images/smilies/spacer.gif)
I'm planning to fit TRD thermostat, but firstly I need some opinions.
![](./images/smilies/spacer.gif)
![](./images/smilies/spacer.gif)
My car is mostly used for a track.
![](./images/smilies/spacer.gif)
![](./images/smilies/spacer.gif)
![](./images/smilies/spacer.gif)
Should I fit TRD thermostat or not? It should keep my engine cooler.
![](./images/smilies/spacer.gif)
![](./images/smilies/spacer.gif)
Thanks
Moderators: IMOC Moderators, IMOC Committee Members
Marf wrote:Just leave the standard one in there.
No need to run the engine cooler, oil needs to get up to temp and heat helps fuel atomise better in the intake plenum
Running the engine cool on the road means your oil won't get up to temp and your ECU may stay in cold start mode.
If you are concerned about high temps, fit a water temp gauge and monitor temps, if they are too high, upgrade your radiator.
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
GreddyMR2 wrote:But don't understastand why TRD should even make this thing if it's useless.
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
Shmed wrote:Playing devil's advocate a bit, but the TRD thermostat is much cheaper than a new radiator.![]()
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
Shmed wrote:
Hypothetically though, if there isn't a problem with overheating, or getting theoil up to temp, would it be better to run the engine coolant cooler?
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
.
.the only thing I can promise for sure is slow progress.
just have this niggling thought that if I rip out the wiring, then the car will never get out of the garage again.![]()
Shmed wrote:I think the TRD opens at 78(from memory).
Bit of a tangent, but what about the 1.3 bar rad caps? I have one.It says Blitz on it, so it's great.
.
.
.but does it help? Doesn't the boiling point go down at higher pressure? Is that a good thing?
Marf wrote:Shmed wrote:I think the TRD opens at 78(from memory).
Bit of a tangent, but what about the 1.3 bar rad caps? I have one.It says Blitz on it, so it's great.
.
.
.but does it help? Doesn't the boiling point go down at higher pressure? Is that a good thing?
Boiling point goes up with pressure.
Basically my view on the engine coolant system is"if it ain't broke, don't fix it", and I certainly wouldnt get into running lower engine operating coolant temps just because I might have the ability to tune for them with an aftermarket ECU.
Cooler aint always best, unless we're talking intake temps.![]()
![]()
ashley wrote:Just an observation here, but was talking to my brother this weekend about coolant temperatures on another engine he is tuning(in his professional capacity), they ran it at 90c and at 80c by switching thermostats
(all on an engine dyno- so like for like tests in every way).
The conculsion was more torque and power made with the coolant running at 80c.I was suprised- I thought you wanted to run hotter to make more power.
.
.
I'm planning on going back to an 80c thermostat when my engine goes back in(having run both in the past).
.
.
Marf wrote:Like for like on an engine dyno sure, doesnt mean squat in the real world with the engine in a car IMO.The map will be altered once the engine goes in the car anyway.
I'm planning to use a lower temp one just because I can
Marf wrote:The ultimate operating temp won't be affected by the stat, so I really doubt the claim about more power, regardless of its provenance.![]()