[Mk2] [Turbo] Rev 2 Turbo Oil Cooler and relocation kit

[audicab26]

Hi
I have been looking at oil filter relocation kits to move my filter on my rev2 turbo from its current location to the drivers side corner in the space behind the strut tower and forward of the boot. I can either just relocate or relocate and introduce an oil cooler. I have seen a kit with a rad 255mm x 115mm x 50mm or 10" x 6" x 2" 16 row anodised with braided hoses but I am not sure how to mount a small cooler rad where it will be effective. Has anyone got any pictures of one mounted and it location any help would be welcomed

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[Shmed]

If that's the ebay kit with the orange anodised part to attach where the stock oil cooler is, then watch for clearance on the exhaust manifold/downpipe. I bought one and have most of it in my garage still as I never bothered with it in the end.

As for oil cooler, you don't need one unless you're doing some serious track action. I saw oil temps of 130deg on mine after about 15 minutes of hard driving at Castle Combe with 400HP, but never above 110 on the road.

If you do get one, consider one with a stat as otherwise your oil might not heat up enough making it less effective.

I always thought of mounting the cooler under the boot (between the exhaust cans), but the braided lines weren't long enough, then i decided not to bother....

[Peter Gidden]

I am not sure how to mount a small cooler rad where it will be effective. Has anyone got any pictures of one mounted and it location any help would be welcomed

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For any liquid/air cooler, you ned a source of cold, moving air.

Another alternative is a Laminova liquid/liquid cooler which can be mounted anywhere as it doesn't rely on a source of cold air.

[audicab26]

Thanks for the responses, I was originally looking at just the mocal relocate kit but then saw the one with the cooler rad and the braided hoses, not really bothered about the rad as my car is only tipping 250bhp, I am not into big BHPs as I drive my car on country lanes and moorland roads. My car is built more for handling than outright speed, anyway the mocal kit is just a replacement head and rubber hoses. I just want to relocate the filter so that its easy to change regularly anyone know how the mocal kit performs and if its a good reliable fit

[slipping clutch]

my oil cooler is mounted behind the grill (as you look at the car from the rear) below the bumper. as already mentioned fit a thermostat in line or get the sandwich plate with one built in also make sure your remote filter is at the same level if not lower than the existing mount on the block. Not doing that was a mistake I made - ( many thanks to Peter G. of sbits for helping me with this bit) my remote now sits passenger side lower bulkhead where I can just reach under the car and unscrew the filter when needed now.

[shinny]

I've recently installed a new oil cooler onto the standard intercooler's shroud. I have an ST205 charge cooler, so there's no intercooler present in that location. By using the shroud and a conveniently sized core, I'm passing all the air from the side vent through the oil cooler.







All mocked up... the oil hoses are both about 1.5' too long!



Very close fit on the rev3 sump (right angled hose ends are easier to use here):



But a perfect fit in the bay:



That's made up of:
1x 17 Row Oil Cooler (260x230x32mm): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130935318339
1x AN-10 right angle fitting: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330875140260
1x AN-10 180° fitting: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330692430705
2x AN-10 straight fittings: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360595402913
2x AN-10 to 1/2" BSP: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160810643108
1-2m AN-10 nylon braided hose: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360735355822

I already had a Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate and you can see I scavenged some rubber seals to help mount the core.

I've not taken the car on track yet, so will report back on oil temperatures later...

[Shmed]

That looks like a really nice fit, almost OEM (my Radtec is in there so not an option, though the new car has a differnt core ).

With a stat, the oil temp should be fairly stable shouldn't it (assuming adequate airflow through the core)?

Out of interest, what temp does the stat open? I seem to remember asking Opie about 'optimum' oil temp and being told that around 110 degrees is pretty good?

[shinny]

That looks like a really nice fit, almost OEM

Thanks... I was really happy with how it all fitted together in the end, although the sandwich plate gave me a little concern until I had the engine up and running.

With a stat, the oil temp should be fairly stable shouldn't it (assuming adequate airflow through the core)?

Without a stat the oil may not warm up to the target temperature at all. A stat should provide a minimum stable temperature and then the cooler helps keep the oil at that temperature.

Out of interest, what temp does the stat open?

AFAIK the Mocal stat shuts at 80°C - up until that point it is open to allow oil to bypass the oil cooler. However, that bypass won't be perfect and I've found that my oil is taking longer to warm up with what is clearly a more efficient core location compared to my previous setup. If I didn't have the stat in place, I suspect the oil would never come up to temperature in normal driving.

I seem to remember asking Opie about 'optimum' oil temp and being told that around 110 degrees is pretty good?

As for optimum temperature, I'm not too sure but I've always aimed at 90°C, and am happy for the oil to go over 100°C from time to time so it can boil off any water in it. IIRC, mineral oils start to break down at 120°C so less than that has always been my aim, despite running decent, full synthetic oil. When I found my car would run 115°C on a motorway cruise and hit 128°C after a single lap of the Nurburgring, that was when I decided to fit a cooler. My first one, bought secondhand here on IMOC, was all jubliee clips and rubber hose meaning it was forever popping hoses and spewing oil everywhere - not recommended!

[JJ]

Nice install...

For when there are no options, I've seen the original Blitz/ SARD kits of yester year mount coolers horizontally in front of the gearbox then have a scoop redirect the air up over...

It keeps the lines short where you can achieve oil pressure quickly during start up....

Not sure how effective the design was having it where the original Blitz setup was.... but looks feasible as long as the scoop doesn't fall off !!

[jimGTS]

slightly off tangent

but i have heard of folk cutting off a small area of the undertray infront of the sump which helped cool the oil temperatures!

[shinny]

slightly off tangent

but i have heard of folk cutting off a small area of the undertray infront of the sump which helped cool the oil temperatures!

I'm missing the entire undertray infront of the sump (presumable removed during charge cooler installation) and my temps were higher than I'd have liked.

but if you were going down that route, why not fit one of those oil filter heatsinks:



Actually I'm tempted by one now... but more to allow easy oil filter removal rather than actually expecting any cooling

[shinny]

BTW, having actually re-read the original post, may I recommend to audicab26 NOT to get an oil cooler. If you don't have an oil temperature problem then just get a relocation kit. The cheap ebay relocation and cooler kits do not include a thermostat, so if you will actually give yourself a problem by installing a non-thermostatic oil cooler setup.

Get something along the lines of this relocation kit and leave one hose unused if need be: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310511702142
NB: I have not checked if this will actually fit your car!

[audicab26]

Thanks all
I am just going to go for the relocation kit, the oil cooler was just a thought because there isn't a huge difference between the the two on price and I thought I may do it all together. My car isn't pushed to its limits and I don't want to get bogged down with thermostats and other tech issues, just want to make my regular oil changes easier

[Race Idiot]

Would it be a good idea to fit an air to air oil cooler if I switched to a TD05 which is only oil cooled?

I like the idea of using the IC shroud though, I also run a 205CC but at the moment I have an NA enginebay fan in place.

[slipping clutch]

Would it be a good idea to fit an air to air oil cooler if I switched to a TD05 which is only oil cooled?

I like the idea of using the IC shroud though, I also run a 205CC but at the moment I have an NA enginebay fan in place.

That's exactly why I fitted the oil cooler to mine as I went td06 oil cooled only , I have mine set up on a thermostat and have a temp. gauge fitted - however the thermostat opens slowly ( fortunately) so its difficult for me to give a definitive yes its really needed on track days or yes its needed for spirited driving etc. and why "fortunately" in the paragraph above in brackets - its because I don't want the thermostat springing open and dumping cold oil straight into the system.
In all honesty I guess its down to personal preference if you fit one or not.

[shinny]

But the thermostat works the opposite way to the coolant 'stat...

On the engine coolant, the thermostat opens to allow cool water from the radiator into the engine, mixed with that form the smaller bypass pipe.

On the oil 'stat (at least on my Mocal sandwich plate), the oil cooler's bypass is closed when you get up to temperature. that means as you're warming up the oil, some oil is still travelling through the core, even if most of it is taking the bypass. Thus, even if the 'stat did suddenly snap shut, the oil in the core is not cold, but in fact warm. It's just not as hot as that coming through the bypass because it's been through the core (obviously).

[slipping clutch]

That's interesting - it would seem I was worried about nothing on that score. Mine isn't a sandwich plate type its a remote unit but made by mocal - I looked at it before I installed it and couldnt see a "bypass" and assumed it was shut and gradually opened. Good bit of info.

[shinny]

Looking at the remote thermostat, I would assume it to be the same... all the space to actuate a valve is in the bypass between the two lines, as per this diagram:



You can also see here that the thermostat on the sandwich plate is controlling a hole in the plate not a line ot the cooler:



However all this will depend on the thermostat being used... you can see on this link that there's a diagram showing that the oil cooler *is* blocked off by certain oil stats. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if the push-on version of Mocal's external stat works that way: http://www.theflyingbanana.com/oil-cooler.htm

[slipping clutch]

I think I may well pull my Thermostat over the weekend and check it out - Thanks again for the info.

[bobhatton]

That looks like a really nice fit, almost OEM (my Radtec is in there so not an option, though the new car has a differnt core ).

With a stat, the oil temp should be fairly stable shouldn't it (assuming adequate airflow through the core)?

Out of interest, what temp does the stat open? I seem to remember asking Opie about 'optimum' oil temp and being told that around 110 degrees is pretty good?

I would want my oil between 110c to 130c. Not worth fitting a cooler unless the temp gets to 150c or above