Bodyshop people....

[Shmed]

I have discovered that the sills on my 'would be' track car are pretty much shagged. Based on the criteria below, can someone experienced tell me a) If it's worth fixing, and b) roughly how much will it cost?

Criteria
1. Structural metalwork needs to be sound
2. Cosmetic metalwork will be completely covered by a skirt, so doesn't need to be original/pretty
3. MOT not required, but safety 100% is.

[Shmed]

In fact, I guess the outer skin doesn't need to be there at all really....

[Jonny Hizzle]

This may be of interest to you

http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/forums/240/159416.html

[Shmed]

Ah, I read that repair thread, but didn't know the replacement sills were available. Looks good, but I have the offer to get a different shell for £50 (+ whatever it'll cost to have it brought to my house)

I can't weld for toffee, so would need to get them fitted too, how much might that cost (ballpark is fine)?

[Super_red]

Thats the worst set I have seen. Its obvious that they have had filler on them in the past which has led to them becoming even worse before beiong noticed. I can weld myself but I would be hard pressed to justify keeping that shell if another was availaible and I had no ties to this one.

Price to fit sills will depend on who fits them. I didnt realise there were sill panels available other than from Toyota and they are quite expensive (I cant read the thread posted as I'm not a member). To be 100% track safe you need all the inner structure repairing, some MoT places just wont bother doing this and will just plate over the top of what you see as this is all thats needed for an MoT, this is shocking I know.

[Shmed]

The jist of the OC post is that someone is producing and selling full length sill replacements for MR2's, £160 per pair.

I think the only bit I actually need in the structural bit though, so not sue if I even need the outer sill?

Oh, and you're quite right about the filler, I had to hammer of about 2-3mm of filler before I got to the rusty holes

[Rob]

They are by far the worst I have seen too. The structural shelves in the rear will almost certainly be shot too.

In my opinion it would be better to re-shell, weighing in the old shell would give you some cash back too.

[Shmed]

Yeah, I think it's destined for the scrapper! Oh well, see if I can make some cash back by selling the (limited) good bits.

Cheers All

[RazzyRascal]

Wow,

I've been quoted a ball park figure of about £500-600 for my rebuild which is inner/outer os/ns sills and part of the wheel arches. That's without a respray of the sills which ill probably keep black until I attempt a respray myself. The cars going in Monday so I should have a better idea of actual cost then. To be fair mine were flaking to bits like that until I told the guy to stop with the hammering as I still had to drive the thing

[Shmed]

So, I cut the passenger outer sill out last night, what do people think about this?

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=174343

It looks to me like it's been repaired before...

[Marty95]

Hi,

Im tackling the sills aswell, my advice would be to get to halfords buy some metal grinding discs and grind the rot off. Mine has rotted thanks to a massive leak in the boot on both sides. I also had to grind the top of the rear arches too. I then went to the scrapyard and got sheet metal from old washing machines etc. Borrow or hire a welding machine.

Cut and bend the sheet metal to what you need and then start welding. Practice first I was bad for burning right thru the metal. Once I got sort of the hang of it I welded the new metal on.

Buy some Metalik filler and use it to fill and seal any holes or burn thrus . Buy some rust treatment spray paint and treat the whole area.

From there stonechip, primer and paint. oh and lacquer too

Sills fixed for half the price.

Remember to seal and protect the metal so that the rust can be kept away.