How to fix exhaust bodge.....?

[KarlBristol]

I've recently had a new exhaust made and fitted for me whilst the car was having the engine swap. Unfortunately the company have utilised the existing exhaust tip hangers which aren't the same size as the brackets that are welded to the exhaust they have hung from it.

Due to this the company shoved some rubber sleeves inbetween the metal bush/hanger and the new exhaust bracket rod. These small bits of rubber tubing come loose every day after around 1-2 miles, leaving a horrendously loud metallic knocking coming from the rear of the car. Everyday I find myself under the exhaust system wiggling the tail pipes around and trying to push these little bits of rubber tubing back on.

Here is a picture of what I am talking about:



You can see in that picture the bracket/bushing which is fitted to the car along with the new metal exhaust pole which is badly "cushioned" by a small piece of rubber tubing.


Anyone have any ideas how to rectify this issue properly?
I can't be pushing a little bit of rubber into bracket above a hot exhaust every mile or so

[toecutter]

Run a die down the rod then you can secure it with a pair of nuts.

[KarlBristol]

Run a die down the rod then you can secure it with a pair of nuts.

That's probably a good idea...

My only concern is that I don't know if the exhaust rods that fit in those hangers need some movement in them to ensure the welded joints don't crack?

[jimGTS]

Run a die down the rod then you can secure it with a pair of nuts.

That's probably a good idea...

My only concern is that I don't know if the exhaust rods that fit in those hangers need some movement in them to ensure the welded joints don't crack?

thats the point of the rubber in the mounts?

[KarlBristol]

Run a die down the rod then you can secure it with a pair of nuts.

That's probably a good idea...

My only concern is that I don't know if the exhaust rods that fit in those hangers need some movement in them to ensure the welded joints don't crack?

thats the point of the rubber in the mounts?

The rubber in the mount operates fine and allows movement but the inner collar is metal, hence why there is a metallic knocking when the exhaust moves - the exhaust fitting arm is hitting the inside of the mount collar.

[jimGTS]

but you mention

"I don't know if the exhaust rods that fit in those hangers need some movement"


thats why i said the rubber should be taking any and every movement.
the rod should be snug in there.

how about even popping a hose over the rod all the way through? shouldnt matter even if there is a little movement inside, id hope it would stay there

[KarlBristol]

I think that when the exhaust was fitted they probably had fitted the tube the length of the metal rod but as there was nothing holding it on there it's wriggled its way out. They are extremely long to just be going through the exhaust hanger mount so I believe they went the entire length. Every time I push them back in I push them as far as possible (normally practically the entire length of the rod).

The offside rubber tube pushes back on the entire length of rod relatively easily but the near side isn't quite aligned correctly in order to push it all the way back on every time. Regardless of how far on they are pushed they still work they way back out relatively quickly.

I'm thinking of a modified version of the nut idea currently
Is there a form of nut which if placed on can be tightened up anywhere along the thread - like a form of locking nut??

I was thinking that I could put a thread on the metal rods, push the rubber hoses back as far as they will go and then place a nut near the end of the metal rods. The nut would prevent the rubber hose from pushing forward any further and thus stop it pushing off. I just need to find a 'locking' style nut that can be tightened up anywhere, otherwise it will be a case of two nuts back to back on the end of the thread (if there's enough room).

Can anyone point me to a nut that would help?
Or have any other ideas?

[kayjay0_7]

Would nyloc nuts do the job

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-Stainless- ... 48466a5d7f

Failing that it's a nut locking another nut as you had suggested

[bobhatton]

Take the car back and get them to fix the problem

[Kongaroo]

lol - agree with Bob. Which company did the work?

[KarlBristol]

lol - agree with Bob. Which company did the work?

It's a company that Peter took the car to called Exhausts UK up by Barnsley.

It's 4 hours and half the country away fom me so getting it fixed by them isn't really an option... Unless they want to do the travelling and do a driveway fix

Such a pita Im fixing a bodge which could have taken 5 minutes extra to be done properly with the exhaust off the car initially

[ashley]

Take it out of the hanger, run a die down it to cut a thread all the way, then refit with a nut each side of the hanger. But it really depends on how easy the thread cuts- might be a PITA

[KarlBristol]

I've had a cracking idea PM'd to me by "slipping clutch" which I'm going to give a go (and I'm very hopeful it will work)

It still cushions everything, allows the flex in the unit and means I don't have to run a die down the entire exhaust rod and fear it placing too much pressure on the unit by being held solid with no movement.

Buying the bits for it tonight - watch this space.

Thanks so much for the idea

[ashley]

fear it placing too much pressure on the unit by being held solid with no movement.

Excellent- looking forwards to seeing this!

...for info though: the rubber in the exhaust hanger brackets themselves will prevent any pressure, if you look at the stock exhaust it bolts in solid to the hangers, and the rubber bushing provides any movemenbt required between chassis and exhaust

[KarlBristol]

Aaaahh - thanks for the info I will bear that in mind and go the thread/nut route if this doesn't work.

Lets just say the proposed route is similar to the current set up but a more professional set up. It's simple yet should be very effective, I wouldn't have thought of it so you know it must be good

[Peter Gidden]

Actually, the sleeves were my fiting. Not Exhausts UK.

Exhausts UK made a fantastic job of the echaust, and it is their accuracy that has caused the problem. If they had been less precise in their welding, the support bars that sit in the exhaust mount bushes would not be able to move so easily.

I fitted the sleeves shortly after first firing up the engine. They remained in place doing their intended job for several hours of engine running in the workshop, to and from MOT station twice, and a 200 mile round trip to Paul Woods.

Unfortunately, it took several more hundred miles of driving for them to start creeping. Bastxxds!

[KarlBristol]

but a solution is just around the corner

[Peter Gidden]

but a solution is just around the corner

I'll just have to keep the next conversion for longer after conversion, and do many more miles - for testing only of course.

[KarlBristol]

they do have an amazing feeling to them don't they... God knows how insane the 2gr must be!! I'd love to find out one day... One day.

I'm surprised you've resisted the urge to go the V6 route with your MR2 since driving mine.

[Peter Gidden]

I'm surprised you've resisted the urge to go the V6 route with your MR2 since driving mine.

Dealing with the other V6 is costing me enough already!