[Mk2] [Turbo] Checking error codes

[joemacmr2]

I bought mr2 turbo back in jan and only got round to checking errors. Does anyone know what 47 means? I reset code polly rfi fuse and car seems to be quicker, the throttle response and boost seems to be stronger. I'd this possible or am I imagining it lol

[Super_red]

Cant find what code 47 might have been but after a reset the car will go back to base running and then relearn the fuel maps, if the timing had been pulled through knock this will have gone back to a good setting.

[KarlBristol]

This might help you

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... a8c066a07d

[joemacmr2]

I pulled the rfi fuse this again and the idle revs began to fluctuate a little as low as 600 rpm and sounded like it was going to die out but didn't. Took it for a test run and boost is definitely stronger. However this only seems to last for about an hr. Feels like a different car. Then the revs start to become more stable and car seems to be sluggish again. i am guessing my timing is out then. Is 10 btdc the correct setting? I have a mbc set to 14 psi. Should I change timing for this?

I used to have a civic type r and until I pulled the rfi fuse, the mr2 didn't ever feel noticeably quicker. Other mods are high flow filter and cat back Motoria exhaust.

Any knowledge on this would be greatly appreciated guys

[joemacmr2]

Ok so I adjusted timing to 10btdc. Jumping across te1 and e1 was not possible as revs were going all over the place and car kept dying. So I set it without using paper clip. Now car is running really bad with constant hesitation and car dying out when coasting up to traffic lights. Is my timing out altogether now since I didn't jump across te1 and e1?

[Tedtiler]

Don't set the timing without the car in diagnostic mode! You could set it dangerously high. It only reads right if the car is sitting at the constant revs required.

If your car is feeling slow after an hour on reset then it probably has detected knock and is protecting your engine. Set the timing correctly and wind it back to 8 or 9 degrees and see if likes that better after an hour.

If you're using a mbc on 14 psi I would bet its knocking a little unless you're running 99 octane fuel.

[joemacmr2]

How do I get it in diagnostic mode. When I jumper te1 and e1 the cars revs are all over the place and I have to dip throttle to stop it stalling. So its not possible to set timing. I advanced timing slighty from where it was (distributor clockwise) and its definately improved. But have no timing gun at the minute so not sure what its reading

[Tedtiler]

Mate for the sake of 50 quid take it to someone who works on them. The consequences of getting it wrong is a ruined engine especially as your running over standard boost.

The revs should settle when you jumper te1 and e1 . Is the engine light on ok when you jump them?

[joemacmr2]

The engine light flashes ok when I jumper so diagnostic works. But the revs die and won't hold. It does not settle. So don't know how to check timing correctly when I can't get a constant idle. Should I get timing set to different value for increased boost??

[Tedtiler]

The standard turbo ecu will retard timing if it detects knock. Still wouldn't be enough to save the engine if you run enough boost on uk fuel. Back off your static timing a bit and use the best petrol you can.

Really not sure why your engine won't go into diagnostic mode though. Needs a look with a trained eye.

[Driftlimits Performance]

Quite clearly there is a fault with your car if it does not run in diagnostic mode.

I would recommend getting it to someone that knows what they're doing. No offence, but a specialist will have it fixed in 20 minutes.