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(Mk 2). I'm fairly confident that I could crack on with the physical swap but not happy bleeding the system etc when the new coolant goes in. - if someone localish has done the job and fancies helping out a fellow MR2 owner please shout! I make a decent bacon sandwich and the tea is always flowing 
Turn the heater onto to HOT. Jack the back of the car up a bit and pour it in nice and slowly. Open the vent on the radiator and the one on the heater circuit alternating between them. Continue like that until you have coolant at both of the vents and the filler is full. Turn it on and run it for a few minutes I did it with the heater turned on and turned to hot. Then I let it cool down completely then repeated the steps above.
The car needs to be level to stop air bubbles. When the levels in the hoses reach the same level as the filler, ie the top of the actual filler neck, you're good to go. This is why the car has to be level. It's not that hard providing you do it this way. Jacked up the rear while i filled up, opened up the rad and heater matrix bleed valves with hoses attached then idled for a bit. Kept on lifting and dropping the rear to shift any air out, repeat those steps until you can't get any more coolant in, take it for a quick drive and you should be done. Keep an eye on the coolant level for a few days and top up if necessary. I paid out a bit more for Toyota Forlife from your local Toyota. Its Decent quality stuff, had mine in for a few years and its still nice and red (touch wood that hasnt jinxed it) Cant find the part number but its on the BGB online. It gives a great outline of the steps involved. Click the second coolant pdf and that tells you how to replace the coolant. Hope this helps. Keep us posted how you get on its a bit of a pain in the @ss to do but hopefully unlike me youll only have to do it once!blue2 wrote:Click this
http://www.mr2oc.com/downloads/bgb/MR2_ ... MANUAL.zip
Click the engine folder then the cooling one.
Just need to sort some tubing for the coolant refill....I can see my fish tank suffering as a result 
..- the only club to win 'Best Club Stand' at JAE more than once, and twice in a row!toxo wrote:Originally the car would have come with 2 bleeding tubes, they may be knocking around in your frunk somewhere.
'engine coolant drain plug', can someone point me in the right direction / post up a picture. The repair manual states 'rear left of engine block' but this has not helped me....I assume this means the passenger side nearest the boot (as opposed to the cabin) 
rowey200 wrote:Can't seem to locate the
Under the #4 intake runner (the one nearest the gearbox).- the only club to win 'Best Club Stand' at JAE more than once, and twice in a row! Again these are only undone when bieng really thorough but worth inspecting them for corrosion. Anyway one snapped on mine when I attempted to loosen it. Give em a spay of WD first....on the basis that the car had a coolant change not too long ago and i'm putting the same coolant back in after i've changed the rad, can I just drain from the rad before removal (maybe jack the back of the car up) and then top back up. Will this cause any issues other that the fact that I won't get all the coolant old out? Certainly not worth snapping them anyway. I decided to have a go at the job on Thurs and as folks stated, it was not that bad. I just took my time and followed the workshop manual 
While the old rad was out I was also able to waxoyl a couple of spots of rust that were starting around the front of the car. 
Good idea with the mesh save a busted radiator in the futuregnzyza wrote:Good stuff, I'm in Bristol aswell.
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Johnr32 wrote:gnzyza wrote:Good stuff, I'm in Bristol aswell.
The mesh is a really good idea although my air con rad takes most of the pounding so not really worried.
My current MR2 does not have aircon and as such the main rad is quite exposed and susceptible to damage (as was the case here).