Project MRX350

[PW@Woodsport]

Has to be the latest image for me. I like the rigour of the one up one down one up one down one up, and the symmetry of course.

PS Paul - where did you buy the old style number plate from?

I got the "Mr2" plate off Ebay last year for £500 plus transfer fees, i'm not usually a fan of personal plates but i did like this one as it let me fit the whole 5 digits in the rear SC light centre panel without needing two rows of letters.

[coanda]

Forgot to say - those fogs lit up are incredicool!

[PW@Woodsport]

Foglights - definitely option two - can the fog light brackets pick up on the lip bracket fasteners?

Numberplate - coppers are getting picky about these things now that ANPR is everywhere up and down the motorway. How about jap import sized plate in the middle of the bumper fixed in the normal way?

Yes i can make the brackets pick up on the under bumper trim easily, no problem, i think i'll have to have a new plate made and see what looks best.

[aw11rally]

Standard size legal looking reflective vinyl plate on the bumper. And the same in the gap between the lights at the back.

Fully legal plates, brackets, fixings and screwdriver in a special pouch behind the drivers seat for if the police notice they're vinyl not proper plates.

We've never had any complaints about the plates on our rally car, they're bs stamped / kite marked stick on reflective vinyl, perfectly legal back in the 80's.

[pk_090]

Option two, with a tegiwa numberplate bracket. Only problem is the the boy racer "huge blinding spotlamps though speed cameras" springs to mind, this was a big phase that hit stoke a number of years ago

[stenky]

You wont like me for this, but the best place for retractable fog lights is in the recesses of an auto style bumper. Stock or BC just dont go that well with fogs in my opinion.

[PW@Woodsport]

Thanks for the input chaps, Stenky believe it or not the flip fogs don't fit in the Styleauto vents, they are much wider than those vents.

[pistol pete]

If it doesn't block the rad to much lights option 2 and plate option 1

If that blocks the rad move the lights not the plate
With the plate higher just ruins the front of it where as it can pull off moving the lights very well

[PW@Woodsport]

Well i took the majoritys vote and went for mounted inside the grill area, i think it was the correct decision.







I need to wire them up but i am happy that they don't detract from the BC lip, mounted outboard they would have done that, so pretty good.

[synXero]

Effect on radiator?

[PW@Woodsport]

Don't think it will be an issue, Mr2 cooling systems are very over efficient anyway, and i'm fitting a bigger core aluminium rad as well. There is still a lot of airflow around the lights/plate so i think it will be fine.

[SuperRedMR2]

Are you going to put the pin stripes back on Paul?

[PW@Woodsport]

No, not a fan of the stripes, i prefer a cleaner look, it will be getting some Toyota fonted decals on the side rubbing strip, where a Mk2 turbo has "Twin cam 16 Turbo" , mine will have "Quad Cam V6 VVti" , just a subtle nod to how Toyota do it.

[craig]

Excellent progress Mr Woods. I would have chosen option 2 on the lights (which you've gone for) and option 2 on the plate, purely based on rad air flow.

But if it doesn't affect the air flow on a big rad etc, then the way you've gone looks good.

Well done so far.

[pk_090]

Will the other one have "big German V8 lump in ere" on those strips?

[PW@Woodsport]

Well my decision to hand these wheels over to the diamond cutters was totally the right thing to do, they have come back with their outer lips and dishes like new...







Really chuffed with how well they came out, they had to make a special cutting bit just for my wheels and this wasn't cheap but i could never have got them looking as good as this. The rest of the work painting the centres and laquering the dishes now falls to me.

[synXero]

I pray for you that you never see salt on the road.

[PW@Woodsport]

I know what you mean, but it won't be an issue on these, the sort of corrosion that happens to normal polished/laquered wheels usually happens on cheaply done alloys with very thin laquer.

Mine will not only be getting a special etch clear primer but will get 5 or 6 coats of 2k clear, then baked off to harden, salt will not be able to get at my surface unless they pick up a severe stone chip, luckily even if that happens i have the facilities to relaquer yearly if need be, but i honestly don't think i will have a problem the way i am doing it.

[craig]

Holy crap dude.

*splumphhhhh*

[synXero]

I know what you mean, but it won't be an issue on these, the sort of corrosion that happens to normal polished/laquered wheels usually happens on cheaply done alloys with very thin laquer.

Mine will not only be getting a special etch clear primer but will get 5 or 6 coats of 2k clear, then baked off to harden, salt will not be able to get at my surface unless they pick up a severe stone chip, luckily even if that happens i have the facilities to relaquer yearly if need be, but i honestly don't think i will have a problem the way i am doing it.

2" thick layer of translucent wax.

Aye that'll do it.