Running rough after a rebuild - includes video

[Steve-O 2007]

All the vacuum lines attached?

[moscoworbust]

All the vacuum lines attached?

One of the first things I checked.

And yes. They are.

Any ones that are particularly important? Maybe have a crack

[moscoworbust]

I fitted NGK 6097's

NGK BKR7E is what you want is that the same as 6097??

yes

[abovetherim]

Have you checked the vac line to the ac idle up solenoid (rear bulkhead next to the diagnostic port)
Another thing to check is the king lead followed by rotor arm and dizzy cap. The rotor arm could be defective which is not unheard of and the cap may also be defective esp at the carbon brush in the top.

[moscoworbust]

Have you checked the vac line to the ac idle up solenoid (rear bulkhead next to the diagnostic port)
Another thing to check is the king lead followed by rotor arm and dizzy cap. The rotor arm could be defective which is not unheard of and the cap may also be defective esp at the carbon brush in the top.

Have you checked the vac line to the ac idle up solenoid (rear bulkhead next to the diagnostic port)

No. I can check it. I thought the thing next to the diagnostics port is the MAP sensor.

Another thing to check is the king lead followed by rotor arm and dizzy cap. The rotor arm could be defective which is not unheard of and the cap may also be defective esp at the carbon brush in the top.

Well, I bought the rotor arm and distributor cap new from MR2BEN. I took it all off to check and I can see the marks where the rotor arm is touching.

I could buy new HT leads and coil pack but it's 100 quid and a massive waste if it doesn't need replacing. But something is definitely up.

[Steve-O 2007]

Check all of your spark plugs leads, Are all of the plugs firing dull / weak? If so then I cant see all 4 leads failing at once.

Next thing I would check then is spark plug gap just incase its too small.

Next thing after that I would probably go coil pack or borrow someones king lead to check.

[moscoworbust]

Check all of your spark plugs leads, Are all of the plugs firing dull / weak? If so then I cant see all 4 leads failing at once.

Next thing I would check then is spark plug gap just incase its too small.

Next thing after that I would probably go coil pack or borrow someones king lead to check.

I checked all the sparkplugs.

There is a spark on all of them, but a weak orange spark.

It didn't look strong at all.

I set all the gaps to 0.028" as recommended with feeler gauges. Maybe it's too small.

Not sure king lead would do it... coil pack is my idea. I think i'd try a newq coil pack before HT leads.

But would it cause it to run so rough? Just that?

[moscoworbust]

Ordered some new HT leads., only 30 quid.

I hope that is the issue.

No VAC lines appear to be off, and no air leaks.

[abovetherim]

when checking the rotor arm look for cracks!!
I have seen a coulpe of king leads barely making contact as the terminal at the coil end cracks.

When you did your spring clean and spraying did you paint the coil bracket? as it earths thro it and the bolts.

While i am mentioning earths have you got the earth under the intake manifold connected securely??

And lastly, not meaning to offend, Is it possible the put the dizzy cap on upside down???

[moscoworbust]

when checking the rotor arm look for cracks!!
I have seen a coulpe of king leads barely making contact as the terminal at the coil end cracks.

When you did your spring clean and spraying did you paint the coil bracket? as it earths thro it and the bolts.

While i am mentioning earths have you got the earth under the intake manifold connected securely??

And lastly, not meaning to offend, Is it possible the put the dizzy cap on upside down???

OK mate, I'll have a look for cracks. The rotor arm is brand new, waiting for new HT leads and king lead atm.

I haven't touched the coil pack. I'll replace it if the HT leads don't fix the problem.

I have checked the earth running through the black plastic thing besides the injecotr that runs between 1/2 and 3/4 cylinders through the gap in the manifodl is securely attached to the manifold.

The dizzy cap is on the correct way, the two drainage type exits are facing down.

Thanks man.

[abovetherim]

Idle control valve plugged in??
Did you remove and then reattach the throttle position sensor?

[moscoworbust]

Idle control valve plugged in??
Did you remove and then reattach the throttle position sensor?
Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i36 ... esting.jpg
Image Replaced With URL For Quote http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i36 ... n/TPS2.jpg

I did not remove the TPS, I made sure of that. I just maskerd it up when i painted the throttle body.

I connected everything up.

Maybe, the idle control valve is not in properly. I can check.

Need to repaint a couple of wheels as I can see the primer through them. Also getting the front bumper off for a respray.

Waiting for HT leads to turn up then I'm gonna try again. New HT leads, then check all the connectors and vac lines.

[moscoworbust]

I just read about another MR2 with this exact same issue.

It was the water temperature sensor.

But I have a receipt for the car having a brand new one from toyota (£120!).

New one on eBay for 15 quid. Might be worth a shot.

[moscoworbust]

Nah, I can't believe it's that.

[moscoworbust]

I think I'll clean up the Idle control valve.

[moscoworbust]

The new HT leads turned up, so a list of things to check as suggested by IMOC's finest:

1) HT leads - install and check

2) All vac lines - Any blocked and check

3) Idle control valve - remove throttle body and clean, check connection in tight

4) Coil pack - Check resistances in tolerance

5) Earth under manifold - Tight and check

6) MAF sensor - damaged? Flap blocked open?

7) Water temperature sensor?

8 ) Fuel injector rail seated properly? If the seals aren't in properly it will be sucking in air through them. I think I got it in correctly though and doesn't account for the over fueling, but it would knock the AFR way off and thus ignition wouldn't take place.

[moscoworbust]

I have a feeling i connected this wire (Circled red) to the manifold and not to the alternator, which would cause all sorts of issues.




Can anyone point out where the earth wire should connect to on the manifold and what it looks like.

[moscoworbust]

Ignore last post, It's fine. THe earth is in thew correct place.

This evening, after speaking with Pete from S-bits who took time out off his day to help me out, a really great helpful guy, i attacked the problems.

I put in new HT leads - still ran bad

I checked earth, it was fine - Still ran bad

I check the pipes to the idle control valve and they're fine

Then i checked for error codes - there were none

Then I went to the AFM - Akk resistances in tolerance

Then i removed the AFM and the flap was stuck half open... a definite reason to overfuel.

uhuh

So, i think this is the issue, after 2 months standing it was a bit stuck and not opening/closing smoothly so I cleaned it with carb cleaner and penetrating oil.

Then i started it up, not great but better. I think it was flooded, no light to remove the plugs and give them a clean, plus the battery was abit flat.

Anyway, tomorrow morning I'll clean the plugs and put in a freshly charged battery.

Fingers crossed.

[moscoworbust]

I am happy to say it is fixed!

It was the AFM.

It purs like a kitten and the new exhaust is fantastic.

It revs a little high at idle, 1600 rpm. But there is hardly any coolant in there. I'll give it a flush and put new coolant in asap.

Thanks to everyone who helped and gave advice.

Still to do:

New coolant
Bleed brakes
Carbon wrap exterior trim
Fit new side lights
Paint bumpers

Getting there.

[Peter Gidden]

I am happy to say it is fixed!

It was the AFM.

Excellent news! Well done.

Like i said, gut feeling...